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Cooling Systems -- Problems & Solutions (Radiator, Fan, etc)

561 messages,  Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 1:37 PM

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#3 of 561 Re: Air Conditioner Hissing and not cooling [05blackquest] by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 05, 2005 (9:19 am)
Replying to: 05blackquest (May 05, 2005 9:04 am) Oops! You're posting in the wrong forum. This is for Cooling Systems.   You want this one:   Climate Control Problems   thank you   Host Replies to this message: 05blackquest (May 05, 2005 3:06 pm)
#4 of 561 Re: Air Conditioner Hissing and not cooling [Mr_Shiftright] by 05blackquest May 05, 2005 (3:06 pm)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 05, 2005 9:19 am) Thanks "Host"...I appreciate it. I've reposted in that area.
#5 of 561 Re: Cooling Systems: Problems & Solutions [Mr_Shiftright] by briggs May 06, 2005 (3:16 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 04, 2005 11:34 am) 1996 Ford Contour, 2 Liter, 4 cyl, 5 speed, single cooling fan. Having problems with radiator cooling fan not coming on when engine gets hot. Fan will run on low speed when the A/C is on and will run on high speed when temp coolant sensor is disconnected, but if A/C is not selected or not in defrost mode, engine will overheat if not moving at a good rate of speed. Have replaced temp coolant sensor, temp switch and thermostat and have inspected wiring under the hood for problems. Flushed cooling system and refilled with fresh coolant, but all too no avail. My local Ford dealer's mechanic has not had a shot at it yet, but I have reason to lack confidence in his ability to troubleshoot electrical problems. My Haynes manual does not offer much help. Any suggestions? Replies to this message: masterpaul1 (May 06, 2005 9:43 am) Mr_Shiftright (May 06, 2005 10:59 am)
#6 of 561 Re: Cooling Systems: Problems & Solutions [briggs] by masterpaul1 May 06, 2005 (9:43 am)
Replying to: briggs (May 06, 2005 3:16 am) This is a long shot, but try checking/replacing the cooling fan sensor/s. I'm having the exact same problem as you have described with our 98 Pontiac Sunfire over heating in temperature around 60 degrees. I have already drained the cooling system and replaced it with fresh coolant. I checked both cooling fan fuses and they seem to be okay. Next I will replace the temperature cooling sensor and pray that it will be the fix. I noticed that the cooling fan would come on at different times. The temp. needle never makes it out of the normal range, but will get very close to the high normal range. I don't believe that the thermostat is the problem since it only starts to run hot when in city driving.
#7 of 561 Re: Cooling Systems: Problems & Solutions [briggs] by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 06, 2005 (10:59 am)
Replying to: briggs (May 06, 2005 3:16 am) You may have two coolant sensors, one to turn the fan on and one to turn it off. You may be replacing the OFF sensor, which of course does you no good.   You can test these sensors pretty easily but you may need a wiring diagram to figure out how your system works.
#8 of 561 Car runs hot on highway or very hot days by sschmid May 23, 2005 (8:12 am)
Car is 92 Mazda 323. Replaced the radiator last summer (due to crack at the top) and left to drive to Fla. Noticed it running hot almost to redline on the way there. Had to drive with the heat on to keep it in satifactory range under highway driving. It was OK around town and fine highway as the weather cooled off. Now of course it is hot in Fla and I have same problem. I figured thermostat must not be opening all the way. Now I have to drive back north home from college. With no tools or a place to work on the car here in fla. I took it to Firestone and asked to have thermostat replaced. They are giving me a song and dance saying it is the water pump? I don't see how that is possible. AFAIK the water pump is either broke and you are overheating or leaking (not my case). I have never heard of one that works under certain conditions. They wanted over 400 to replace the pump and thermosat. or 153 to do just a themostat!!! Of course if I had them do the pump and themostat and it was just the thermostat problem would be fixed to the tune of over $400 to replace a $4 part. needless to say I left. Interesting thing was they had taken the thermostat out and where going to replace it even though I declined the work at $153. Then the realized they did not have the gasket which I had sitting in my car but they would not use. So they put it back together with the old thermostat and gasket. Took them about 20 Min to put back together. They charged me $16 for "looking at it". Now it seems to be running hotter. I am going to take it to another mechanic tomorrow who I hope will not be out to rip me off so any thoughts would be helpful. Replies to this message: masterpaul1 (May 31, 2005 8:20 am)
#9 of 561 overheating by cmcmillon May 26, 2005 (8:08 pm)
if the oil isnt changed on the mazda, is it possible that the car can overheat??? and what should i do after the oil is changed? i noticed tonight that my gauge was going towards hot, and everytime i pushed down on the cluth and brake my mph gauges some what jumps from 2 to 3 what should i do???
#10 of 561 Re: Car runs hot on highway or very hot days [sschmid] by masterpaul1 May 31, 2005 (8:20 am)
Replying to: sschmid (May 23, 2005 8:12 am) I'm not sure what kind of cooling fan you have, rather it's the electric or the pulley kind. If it's the electric cooling fan, you might want to try and check/replace the cooling fan fuses and the temperature sensor which is what turns the cooling fan on and off after the coolant reaches the number of degrees that the sensor is set for. For example, if the temperature sensor is set at 180 degrees, when your coolant reaches this temperature, the sensor sends a signal to the cooling fan to turn on. When the coolant reaches a temperature below 180 degrees, the sensor sends a signal to the cooling fan to turn it's self off. If you have the old kind of cooling fan that runs all the time from the engine pulley, first check to see if you have a clutch fan. If you do, it's probably time to replace it. (They should be replaced every five years). If you don't have a clutch fan, you might need to hose off the radiator cooling coils. Over the years dirt and stuff gets build up in these coils which insulation the heat. To check to see if the cooling fan is working, (electric cooling fan), lift the hood and let the car idle to regular temperature. Most thermostats are set for 160 to 180 degrees. Which means that the temperature gauge should not go past the halfway mark in the normal range. Look to see if the cooling fan comes on. If it doesn't, you need to change the cooling fan fuses and the temperature sensor. All of these parts should not cost over $50. Also, make sure that you have no leaks in the cooling system and that you have the right mixture of coolant 50/50 water and coolant. The coolant should be replaced at least every 5 yrs or so. Make sure the coolant level is at the "Max Cool" level when the car is cold. Hope this helps and good luck.
#11 of 561 Re: Cooling Systems: Problems & Solutions [Mr_Shiftright] by dodgekbad Jun 02, 2005 (8:14 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 04, 2005 11:34 am) Hi Mr Shift   You might remember me from the tranny forum with a k car that had a bad tranny. I junked it, and found a '98 Explorer for cost! through my brother's friend in the car biz.   Anyway, the coolant in the reserve tank was brown and foamy. I assumed the rest of it was as well, so I flushed it in front of my parent's house (and left a decent sized stain in the street in the process - when my bucket didn't catch all of it). Much to my surprise - the coolant in the radiator was green. It was consuming a lot of coolant too, and I could smell coolant while driving. My temp is slightly cooler than the middle of the gauge, and both my heat and A/C are working. I added some stopleak in the radiator to alleviate the smell assuming there was a pinhole leak somewhere. It seemed to stop the coolant smell and maybe the use of so much coolant, but I am not sure yet. It could be too early to tell.   I have new coolant in there now after the drain and fill last night. Although, I never drained the brown stuff out of the reserve, and it used it since I only poured 1 gallon mix in the radiator after the flush, and it takes 1 3/4.   I refilled the reserve, and drove to work this morning (16mi ride). I looked in the reserve and spots of brown again. The oil dipstick looks OK - a little high - but looks like oil nevertheless. The tranny dipstick looks good, and appears to just have tranny oil on it. There's no white smoke...should I just ignore it? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 03, 2005 4:40 pm) dodgekbad (Jun 04, 2005 5:56 am) Mr_Shiftright (Jun 04, 2005 7:35 am) and 1 more...

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