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Cooling Systems -- Problems & Solutions (Radiator, Fan, etc)

561 messages, Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 1:37 PM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 04, 2005 11:34 am)
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Replying to: lildoers (Jun 05, 2005 6:17 am) RE: THERMOSTAT -- you pretty much have to take it out to check it, and if it isn't expensive, it's a GREAT idea to just replace it, since you have all that goop in there. Stopleak is kind of a desperate measure, so you shouldn't overdo it.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 05, 2005 7:08 am) I think that Stop Leak did the trick (despite being brown in color) because it doesn't seem to use any coolant now. Also it doesn't smell either. And judging from when I drained it last - I am willing to bet the coolant is green in the radiator - just the reserve bottle coolant is brown. I've used a compression tester on a 2 stroke dirt bike before. Is it as EZ for an SUV as unscrewing a spark plug; putting in the gauge; and starting the engine 6 times for each plug? That'll tell me if the rings are good, No? But where can I get the specs? Or maybe pressure testing that coolant systems sounds like a good idea? Maybe it's that water pump not pumping the stuff around. But how much is that? I just upgraded from an '88 k to a '98 Explorer (albeit for cost) but it broke the bank in a way. Plus I am a tightwad who has some junior mechanic skills, and hates mechanics. Thanks Mr Shift. Nick |
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Replying to: dodgekbad (Jun 07, 2005 8:37 am) I suggested the thermostat because you said coolant was pushing out the reservoir or radiator. If the thermostat got partially stuck, there would be poor water circulation and you'd get a fast overheat and coolant blowing out. And besides, thermostats don't like stop leak very much. It is after all, clogging all small openings, as it is supposed to do. Stop leak isn't smart, it doesn't know which openings are good and which aren't good.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 07, 2005 11:13 am) So what should I do? It doesn't use coolant any more, or smell, so the stop leak appears to be working. Either that or the do-it-yourself drain and fill, did the trick. I drained it after put the Stop Leak in, so I probably drained whatever Stop Leak was there anyway. I am not sure about draining again to get to that thermostat with my new coolant and all. But why Brown in the Reserve? Could it just some Stop Leak in the bottle. It's been like 90 degrees here and the needle is just running a little on the cooler side, by about 1/6 on an inch, on the gauge.
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Replying to: dodgekbad (Jun 07, 2005 12:30 pm) |
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HI, I am having problems with my 1998 Ford Contour. When I drive on the highway my car works like it should all the readings are right for temp and only when i start up my car does the coolant light come on. But when I drive for about 20 mins on the highway my coolant light comes on and then when I pull over to check it the all the coolant dumps on the ground through the pressure release hose. I am completely stumped and so is every person I have brought my car too (INCUDING THE FORD DEALERSHIP) Now I was stupid and spent tons of money changing just about everything the cooling system. I have changed the water pump, hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, temp sender, temp sensor, I have had the head gasket checked 4 times (all came up negative) so I am completely out of ideas PLZ HELP
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Replying to: rzombie (Jun 08, 2005 5:17 pm) Otherwise, I'm wondering if your car requires a certain way to refill the coolant--that is, maybe you have air in your cooling system because it wasn't bled off properly during coolant filling. The reason I say this is that your coolant light is related to coolant level---your coolant seems to be surging, which it will do if there is air trapped in the system.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 08, 2005 5:48 pm) I was wondering I have heard that there is a flapper on the top radiator hose could this be the problem? Thx for replying
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