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Toyota Pickup, Truck
#77 of 460 Re: 89 toyota 4x4 pickup [jmeutah]
Oct 28, 2005 (6:01 pm)
I'm a tech and I have rebuilt my own 1992 Toyota pick-up 4x4 standard cab 5-speed manual trans., and I have rebuilt 20R motors as well for my friend as side jobs and I know these people and see them on a weekly basis. The first 22RE I rebuilt was six year ago and my own was 3 1/2 years ago and neither myself or my friends have had any problems w/ driveability issues. and also the only aluminum components on the 22RE's are the valve cover, front timing cover, and the cylinder head, the block is solid cast iron and the oil pan is molded steel. I'm not nockin your friend who worked for Toyota but who ever told him that these engines never run as well after rebuilding them didn't know what they were talking about. All you have to do is use a ridge-reamer if necessary depending on the mileage, bore and hone the cylinders to .030" of an inch larger, replace the pistons and rings w/ .030" sized ones, mill the engine block deck, mill the cylinder head wether it's warped or not, have the crank shaft turned, install a new cam and all new timing components, have the rocker arm tappet faces resurfaced and hard faced, have the valves and valve seats reground or just lapped depending on pitting severity, replace all necessary bearings (crank rod and main,cam,etc) and if your a real stickler for perfection you'll have the crank mains align bored.
I'm not trying to be a pain, I just hate seeing people getting screwed w/ shotty workmanship, it's just not cool. And also a good engine rebuilder can rebuild an engine in about a week, not five. It shouldn't matter how busy they say they are. If they are that busy they should be looking out for your interests and tell you that it will take longer. I hope this helps in any way possible. Hell, maybe you can take the guy to small claims court, get your money back. Then you can print this out as a rebuild list and have it done the right way. The same thing happened to my best friend six years ago. He took the guy to court, got his money back and I rebuilt his motor for him. That was the same first 22RE that I ever rebuilt. Good luck. TECH007.
#78 of 460 Re: Reset Needed After New O2? [ak_mike]
Oct 28, 2005 (6:18 pm)
I'm a technician myself, and you do not have to reset anything, my friend who is also a technician just replaced his a couple of months ago and he hasn't had any problems. Your actually supposed to replace your O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Hope this helps you. TECH007
#79 of 460 Re: Just Curious [jellopuddin]
Oct 28, 2005 (6:25 pm)
The 3.0L V-6 fits in perfectly w/ no extra mods. But I my self am trying to find out if if I can swap the 3.0 w/ the 3.4. I'm not sure how much it would cost because me and my brother did the labor for a good friend and I know there are V-6 engines for sale on ebay. So you could start there. Hope this helps you in any way. TECH007.
#80 of 460 Re: check engine light on a 1992 22rc std 4x4 [seastuff]
Oct 28, 2005 (8:07 pm)
It's probably an unrelated problem, due to the fact that none of the fluid levels, being either too high or too low can cause the check engine light to come on. the cooling system doesn't have a light because it has the gauge, the engine oil either has a gauge or the low oil light, and the trans, transfer case, front and rear diffs don't have fluid level sensors. There is no light for the fuel system or A/C refrigerant either. It's smart of you to check the fuel filler cap because most people don't even realize that could cause that problem. The first thing that I would check would be all of you evaporative emissions hoses at your charcoal canister to make sure that they are all connected and that they aren't starting to crack. Don't forget about the other ends of those hoses at the fuel tank either because most people overlook those. Next check all of your vacuum lines at your intake manifold. And what ever you do, do not turn or twist those little breather/drum looking things mounted to the plates on top of your valve cover w/ the different colored ends, those are vacuum solenoids and they have a specific factory setting. after that you should vacuum test you EGR valve because if that is not working right it can cause your engine to run either too rich or too lean and that can take out your O2 sensors, and that most definitly will trip the check engine light. I hope that this information will be helpfull in your diagnosis of your check engine light. TECH007
#81 of 460 Re: 93 4X4 22R Overheating [isaacorps]
Oct 28, 2005 (8:33 pm)
First off I have to say thank you for adding in that little bit about how you don't have any heat. Most people over look that issue and write it off as something unrelated. When the coolant moves through the engine block the only way it can get from one side to the other is through the heater core, I know it souns like a bad idea but it's the only way to get adequet flow through the core. Also, I know you said that the water pump seems to be working fine, and it most likely is, that's because there is an actual method to these engineers' madness. If you have ever seen the inside of a water pump you will remember seeing that there is about an 8th inch gap between the impellor blades and the actual housing, that makes these pumps a non positive displacement pump. They do this for two reasons: 1) precisley the reason your having, because the pump has enough clearence around the impellor blades that it won't cause excess pressure in the system and cause your heater core to explode all over your feet. 2) If it was a positive displacement pump they would have to engineer the entire system w/ high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings and whole shabang. They would also have to take into acount the dramatic rise in tempereture. I also know that you said that you had flushed the cooling system, and I applaud you sir. But your probably only dealing w/ a heater core that is almost completely plugged but still has enough flow to taunt you with false hope. Hope that this will be helpfull in your diagnosis. TECH007
#82 of 460 Re: 87 toyota 4x4 [timk54]
Oct 28, 2005 (8:46 pm)
Try looking into the EGR system, the coolant temp sensor, and it its EFI, look into the cold start injector. These are the most common problems. Hope this helps. TECH007
#83 of 460 Re: 87 toyota 4x4 [timk54]
Oct 28, 2005 (8:51 pm)
Me again. If you do ever have a starter problem you can usually rebuild them your self for way cheaper than if you bought a new or reman one.
#84 of 460 Re: my 88 4x4 toyota truck will not run. [coryee]
Oct 28, 2005 (9:08 pm)
If the EFI fuse is not blown as Austin had stated. You might want to check to see if your fuel pump relay is working or not, a super easy check is to see if there are any other relays in the fuse box or that you can see around there and just do a quick swap to see if the truck fires up or not, that way you can rule out the fuel pump relay. Just make sure that the other relay isn't for another important system like the ignition system. If that doesn't work I would try testing the fuel pump itselt. You can find testing procedures in the repair manuals like Haynes or Chilton. And concidering that it runs when you spray starter fluid in it obviously rules out the ignition system, just go easy w/ that stuff. I've seen first hand what that stuff can do, and it does melt holes in your pistions w/ excessive use. I hope this info helps. TECH007.
#85 of 460 Re: 1985 Turbo Diesel Pickup [curious8]
Oct 28, 2005 (9:26 pm)
You might want to do a valve adjustment, thats basically the diesels version of a tune-up. You can adjust the valves using the valve overlap method. You can go online and find repair manual online for pretty cheap and they will tell you how to adjust the valves. It's different from adjusting a gas engines valves. I hope this info helps you. TECH007.
#86 of 460 Re: Manual Transmission Stuck [bufhunter]
Oct 28, 2005 (9:54 pm)
Unfortunately w/ out pulling the transmission it's going to be hard to tell what exactly the problem is. You said that when you push in the clutch that it disengaged the trans, which means that you can start the truck w/ the clutch pushed in because if it won't come out of fourth gear the truck will learch forward if you have the clutch start cancel button pushed in. I am a tech and have worked on my fare share of toyotas because pretty much all of my friends and family have pick-ups including myself. I would pull the tranny, See if there is top plate that you can remove where the shift lever goes in and look for any broken, bent, or binding components such as, bent or broken shifter forks, missing shifter fork shaft roll pins, missing shifter fork to syncro poly eurethane guides, bound or broken 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear syncros. But first, drain the fluid into fast food cup and check for matal shavings or chunks. If the fluid has a gold matalic sheen to it, it is probably a syncro or a bushing. But any other metal shavings or small chunks could be anything else. If the fluid is any other color than amber or almost clear, try refilling it and working it free. Possibly have someone tow you around a parking lot while holding the clutch in and releasing it and at the same time jerking on the shifter. That could be enough to break it free. I hope this info helps you. TECH007.