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Mazda Miata Problems and Solutions - READ ONLY

372 messages,  Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:46 AM

You are in the Mazda Miata Forum. Your Host is claires

What is this discussion about? Mazda Miata, Mazda MX-5 Miata, Electrical, Engine, Steering, Suspension, Transmission, Convertible


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#323 of 372
Re: Just got a 1990 Miata [reuban1] by ateixeira
Jul 14, 2006 (7:52 am)

Replying to: reuban1 (Jul 14, 2006 6:44 am)

I'd replace all the fluids, including bleeding brakes, coolant, even bleeding the clutch master/slave (it uses brake fluid too). Not just engine oil but also transmission and rear differnetial fluids (75w90 gear oil for both).
 
I got a '93 when it was 8 years old, and the rear diffy fluid looked like melted chocolate. The clutch slave cylinder wore out and the fluid in there wasn't much better.
 
That plus all the usual 60k service stuff. Anything original is 16 years old now, so maybe all the belts and hoses if they look worn, cracked, or feel hard.
 
-juice
#324 of 372
Re: Just got a 1990 Miata [ateixeira] by reuban1
Jul 14, 2006 (3:48 pm)

Replying to: ateixeira (Jul 14, 2006 7:52 am)

Thanks Juice! Here is an update It just got dropped off at my house. Paint is ok but faded. checking the drip stick the oil looked great the back window you can't even see out of but, the soft top looking at works like new. brake diskes are all rust. one window does not work but I found a new kit for the window in the truck.
 
1st I may compound the paint then wax?
2nd Change oil asap
3nd Back window. Is there just a window replacement?
4th Brakes. Will they just wear in?
5th What's the time frame to repair the withdow (Power)?
#325 of 372
Re: Just got a 1990 Miata [reuban1] by kymike
Jul 14, 2006 (5:08 pm)

Replying to: reuban1 (Jul 14, 2006 3:48 pm)

A good polishing will surprise you. Try that before you wax.
 
Change oil ASAP. Cheap insurance.
 
You might try some plastic polish on the back window. I have seen that do wonders. You have nothing to lose if you are going to replace the window anyway. You can have a new back window sewn in (I have one in my car that the previous owner had installed). Any shop that does convertible tops can do this.
 
The rust on the rotors is just on the surface. It will wear off in your first drive. Make certain that you don;t have any other brake components rusted and not fully functioning before you try that quick stop behind someone.
 
Pick up a copy of Rod's Miata Enthusiast Manual to help you through all of the maintenance items including the power window repair. This should not be too difficult with the proper instructions.
 
Enjoy your new ride!
 
Mike
#326 of 372
Re: Just got a 1990 Miata [kymike] by reuban1
Jul 16, 2006 (4:40 am)

Replying to: kymike (Jul 14, 2006 5:08 pm)

Thanks That Plastic polish didn't work )-: window way to far gone plus it cracked when I put the top down no biggie. I polished the car if self & that came out awesome.
On the first star the windows blower & a bunch of other stuff didn't work I turned off the engine than restarted & all the components worked. Started & restarted theyesterday & now nothing works. Any suggestion?
When changing the back end fluid does the car have to be level or can I just jack up the back end?
#327 of 372
Re: Just got a 1990 Miata [reuban1] by kymike
Jul 16, 2006 (5:01 am)

Replying to: reuban1 (Jul 16, 2006 4:40 am)

Check all of your fuses. There is a fuse box under the dash on the driver's side (to the left of the steering column). It should have a cover showing which electrical items the fuses support. The windows use a 30A fuse. The blower and wipers share a 20A fuse. There is also a circiut breaker in the fuse box under the dash that protects the blower circuit. If the red button has popped out, push it back in to reset.
 
The car does need to be level to check the differential fluid. I ususally drive the front on to ramps and put jackstands under the rear. Remember to loosen the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. It won't do any good to drain if you cannot refill. You will nee 0.69 qt to fill the differential.
 
Did you unzip the window prior to putting the top down? The top latches should always be undone prior to unzipping the window in order to put less strain on the zipper. The window should always be unzipped when putting the top down in order to avoid creasing it.
 
Post back if you have more questions.
#328 of 372
Top by ateixeira
Jul 17, 2006 (9:09 am)
Budget for a new top, they usually last about 10 years. At 16, yours is a miracle, but...trust me, just budget for a new one. They get brittle and will crack for any little cause.
 
$460 gets you a new Robbins top if you are handy and want to put it on yourself.
 
$800 for a top installed, and it's a LOT of labor so it's arguably worth it.
 
You can get just the windows for abour $150, but you need a new rain rail ($100), and it's just as much labor. Then the top will crack and you'll have to buy a whole new one anyway. I'd just get a whole new one.
 
The upholstery shops I called wanted nothing to do with sewing in a new window. They can't get it water-tight. And they would not even replace just the window portion, in one case even when the top was installed by them (PBC in VA)!
 
The paint is probably thin, so whatever you do be careful not to burn through it.
 
I'd clean the brakes a bit before you do for a drive. Certainly be gentle on them at first.
 
-juice
#329 of 372
Bose problems by aquaticexplore
Jul 19, 2006 (8:12 pm)

Replying to: rkski (Apr 21, 2005 4:57 pm)

Have a new 06 with single CD Bose system. Two problems: It has audiopilot, which is supposed to alter volume and tone etc in relation to speed (noise). However, volume does not change as you speed up. Bigger problem: 2X when the car was turned on, the sound out of the right door speaker was totally garbled (radio or CD), almost like the speaker was hanging or screwed up. Other speakers were fine, but had to turn the radio off as it was a mess. Stayed that way for about a day, then self corrected. Did it again today. Car has 1000km. Also asked the dealer to turn the beeper off, which increases in volume if you don't fasten your seatbelt. Told me he couldn't do it since other functions were also affected. However, owner's manual says it can be done by the dealer. Love the car, hate the problems. Any suggestions on radio problems?
#330 of 372
Re: Just got a 1990 Miata [kymike] by reuban1
Jul 22, 2006 (6:32 pm)

Replying to: kymike (Jul 16, 2006 5:01 am)

~Update. First thanks to all for the help.
Replacing the power window hardware was ok but I can’t seam to get the wire mechanism part correctly around the power motor part. Therefore it’s not going up & down correctly. Any hints?
Battery is get extremely hot! As I was checking it there was actually liquid coming out of one of the air holes at the top.
#331 of 372
Slow Acceleration and Uphill Struggle by coastie52
Jul 23, 2006 (9:50 am)
Our daughter bought a 1990 Miata 3 weeks ago. It ran well when she first bought it, but now when starting out in first it only goes up to about 1500 rpms even when floored. It also struggles mightily going uphill. I changed the air filter, fuel filter, replaced plugs, and had the fuel injectors cleaned professionally. It ran fine just after the fuel injectors were cleaned, but in a day's time it was back to being sluggish. Can anyone help me pinpoint the problem?
#332 of 372
Re: Slow Acceleration and Uphill Struggle [coastie52] by kymike
Jul 23, 2006 (12:01 pm)

Replying to: coastie52 (Jul 23, 2006 9:50 am)

I would take the car to an Autozone and have them read your engine codes (even if the check engine light has not come on). I would also install new plug wires.
 
This almost sounds like a back-pressure issue with the exhaust. Check your catalytic converter to see if it is glowing red. If so, it is probably clogged and you will need to replace (with generic converter as the OEM converter is expensive).
 
Does it rev OK when you are not driving?
 
Post back as to what city you live in and maybe we can help find a local Miata specialist to help you out.

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