Last post on Jan 22, 2006 at 11:14 PM
You are in the Speed Shop Tuning and Modification
What is this discussion about?
May 06, 2005 (3:57 pm)
And we were just talking about high-performance minivans....
The Muscle Car for Mom (Inside Line)
Yeah, yeah, it's a wagon, but still. $90k for a soccer rig! Only 469 hp [snicker].
#8 of 10 best nitrous
Aug 28, 2005 (5:59 am)
i have a nitrous system mad by nitrous express and i think thebest nitrous is the "SX2 Direct Port System"
#9 of 10 Re: Nitrous or NO? [jayelleseven]
Jan 20, 2006 (6:37 pm)
YOU STILL HERE? just came across this site and am interested in an nitrous sys for my coupe.
Did you get a system? which one? please email me at FLDJSAOL.COM not sure if im set up for replies on this site. Im new!
heres some info i got! INFO BELOW
Some good info for you guys interested in nitrous
I posted this as a reply for someone who wanted to know further about the right parts and setup for a nitrous system in our cars along with an estimated cost. I decided to make it a whole new thred in efforts to help out as many peeps as possible. Here's it is:
Ok, heres is MY setup along with all the parts I currently am using and where i got them from. In my opinion these are the best parts you can have to make not only a complete but a safe and reliable setup. I consider this the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.
1) nitrous express kit #20923-10 ($420)
It doesnt REALLY matter what nx kit you get since most of the kits are the same just with a slight variance with fittings and what not. The only guidelines that you need to watch for are that it's for an import, with a 10lb bottle. The rest you dont have to worry about and I will show you why in a bit. Your cheapest bet is to pick up a kit on ebay. I would not suggest buying a used one. I picked up my new kit for 420 shipped, so just look around. Or you can pick one up direct from NX for about $620 shipped.
2) fuel line adapter ($55)
You will need need this so you won't have to splice into the factory fuel line. This will save you from buying a new one "just in case" something happens and you need to return the vehicle to the dealership. If they see a spliced fuel line, they will most likely give you a hard time about it and in some cases void your warentee. You can pick this up at PTP motorsports ( http://www.ptpmotorsports.com/fuliad.html )
3) 2- 5 foot -4an steel braided lines ($35)
This is optional depending on where exactly you mount your solenoids. IT would be wise to mount them somewhere close to the intake, which is where the nozzle will be. I mounted mine by the left strut tower behind the little wall. You can find these all over ebay in various sizes. You probaby want to plan ahead of time and measure exactly to see what size lines you'll need.
ACCESSORIES- You will soon come to find that most of the cost of the system actually comes from the accessories and not the original kit itself. Most of these are only accessories to the kit and are not exactly needed, but can make life easier and help out a tad.
1) Bottle opener ($125)
Its exactly what it sounds like, a bottle opener. This will prevent you from having to go to your trunk everytime to open the bottle. I personally hid my bottle in a compartment i made in the trunk. So this benefitted me greatly. Its probably something that you should get just to make life easier. Search on ebay for one of these. Make sure its a NX opener, those are the best.
2) Bottle heater ($125)
This is a rubbery strapl that gets wrapped around your bottle to heat it up and increase the pressure in the bottle, which will actually affect performance quite a bit, especially if you live in colder regions where your bottle pressure will be too low and you will yield much less results. They come with an automatic turn off sensor. When it reaches a certain temp, it turns itself off. A great investment if you ask me.
3) Purge ($100)
This is a second nitrous solenoid that releases nitrous out of the system in efforts to remove the gaseos n20 and fill the lines up with the liquid portion (which is what you want). Now i cant exactly comment on how effective this is simply because i did not see much of a difference myself. Most people install this just for the looks ( nitrous spraying out of the hood, etc,). Not something you really need.
4) Fuel Pressure Safty Switch ($45)
This is a switch that gets tapped into the fuel lines, and when too much pressure drops, the signal is then cut and disactivated the system. This is to prevent grossly lean situations which WILL cause detonation. Very good safty device for the money. Devenatly something you need.
5) Blow down tube and fitting ($50)
This is a safty tube that gets installed on your bottle in the case of nitrous discharge from the blow off cap. This will route the discharge OUT of the cabin. Most people have this on because its a requirement for some, not all, tracks. Find your local track and see if its something that is required, and make a decision based up that.
6) Slicks/drag radials ($300)
You will soon find that traction will now become an issue. On stock tires it is easy to spin both first, second, AND third. Also pretty dangerous at high speeds if you dont know what your doing. This is where drag radial/slicks come into play. What you want to do is find the smallest size rims that will clear your calipers. 16" rims should do the trick. The smaller, the lighter, the better. What seems to work great are the 300zx wheels. They are a 16x8 design which can be picked up fairly cheap. Find yourself a set of drag radials. They can very in price quite a bit depending on if you get them new or used. Some people use them a couple of times,throw them in the garage and never use them again. That would be a good situation for you to come up on. I see ALOT of these types of situations on my350Z.com . You might wanna check there to see what kinda luck you can get.
***NOTE*** There is a kit by NX called the GEN X2 kit which has all of the above minus the bottle opener. It also comes with a guage that get mounted to the bottle. This is a good idea if you are planning to get most of the above. You can pick this up at http://turboimport.com/catalog/nitrousexpress.htm for $365 shipped OR if you do not want the purge, you can get the GEN-X package for $295 shipped.
ELECTRONICS- These are the various electronic deviced that you will need to not only run, but also monitor your system. Very important.
1) Adjustable Window Switch ($49)
Probably one of the most important and best safty devices you can have. Many people swear that you dont need them; (these are the people that cry about their blown motor shortly after). Its a component that activates the nitrous only if the pre-selected RPM paramaters have been met. With the adjustable unit, you can change the ranges to whatever you want. The range that i currently use is 3000 - 6750. I can adjust in 250 rpm increments on both the high and low. Best place to get this is at www.bakerelectronix.com . Make sure to get the adjustable one and for the the 8 preset increments choose 3000,3250,3500,3750, 6250,6500,6750,& 7000.
2) TPS (throttle position sensor) ($39)
Since our cars do not have a cable linked throttle, we have to go about the factory TPS sensor to activate the system. Well if theres no throttle cable you cant use the switch NX includes in th
#10 of 10 Excellent Nitrous Post!
Jan 22, 2006 (11:14 pm)
I couldn't have said it better myself...
By far the best bang for the buck and the only choice for those with little to no aftermarket support. Not everybody can afford to buy the parts, install, fab and tune a turbocharged car based on a N/A car.
The hard parts might seem cheap, but its the "little" things that add up far faster than most think.
The only thing I would add is that a modified exhaust is mandatory for a nitrous powered car. Your asking the stock exhaust system and muffler(s) to deal with as much as 70hp from 50hp jets at the wheels and almost 80-90ft of torque increase.
I'm glad you recommended slicks or drag radials. Nitrous is torque, ET is about torque and the first 300 feet. To get low ET's you got to make good torque numbers and you have to be able to put the power down effectively.
Its a wise investment and helps you get the most out of your investment in nitrous.
NX Mainline kits can be had for under $400 if you look hard enough.
The Nitrous Works EFI kit and Max Power upgrade (bottle heater, blowdown tube and bottle pressure gauge) can be bought for under $750 total.
These are some of the best and least expensive nitrous kits on the market.
The easiest to install are ZEX wet and dry kits. I prefer wet kits for the extra torque production and generally safer operation. But the main merit for dry kits is ease of hiding and slightly easier to install, though ZEX Wet kits are just as easy and maybe take 10 mins longer to install than your average ZEX dry kit.
Any engine can safely ingest more nitrous at high RPM, than at low RPM. This is where progressive control comes into play. This market has exploded in the last few years and innovations are coming out faster and more often every year.
Its possible to have a completely computer controlled, closed-loop nitrous system. You can do so for less than the price of your average turbo or supercharger kit and generate more power for less invested.
The FJO/Nitrous Express Advanced Progressive controller is the best unit out there currently. I would say the High Power Nitrous system's Maximiser is a close 2nd and easier to program as you don't need a PDA or laptop to control it like you do the FJO/Nitrous Express unit.
Don't get this confused with Venom's overpriced VCN-2000 nitrous systems. It is programable and closed-looped as well, but it depends on your less than stellar performing OEM 02 sensor. The FJO unit uses an on-board Wide Band O2 driver to take its signals from, protecting your engine from lean or overly rich conditions.
The Venon VCN-1000 is a suitable choice for cars with returnless fuel systems and you don't have to deal with tapping your fuel rail, but you do have to splice into your injector harness...
The Venon, like all other dry kits are limited by the car's fuel system. With stock injectors, you can safely go up to about 70-75hp with a Venon or other dry kits from Edelbrock, Compucar, TNT or NOS
Dry kits also produce less torque.
Nitrous Related Links:
North American Dealer for HighPowered Nitrous Systems and Controllers - http://www.racetested.com/
ZEX - http://www.zex.com/
The Nitrous Works - http://www.barrygrant.com/nitrous/default.aspx
TNT - http://www.nitrous-power.com/
NOS - http://www.nosnitrous.com
Edelbrock - http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/nitrous.html
Compucar - http://www.compucarnitrous.com/
DynoTune - http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/
Nitrous Supply (original owner of NOS) - http://www.nitroussupply.com/
Cold Fusion Nitrous - http://www.coldfusionnitrous.net/
Wilson Manifolds (ProFlow Nitrous, suppiler of the nitrous kit for the N2o Saleen Focus) - http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/
Venom Performance - http://www.venom-performance.com
Arc Heat Bottle Warmers - http://www.archeat.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Archeat&Cate- gory_Code=NBH
FJO Racing Products - http://www.fjoracing.com
Above all HAVE FUN...