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Maintenance & Repair Engine Removal
36 messages, Last post on Aug 10, 2008 at 8:30 PM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Also, before you start pulling the motor, take time and mark where the vacuum lines, wiring and other connections are. Take some pics of the engine bay while everything is still connected. Then as your pulling wires and lines, get some masking tape and a couple of black sharpies and start marking. Mark everything and make multiple copies of the pics (mark them as well) if you have to; it'll save you later on. When your pulling bolts, place them in plastic bags and mark the bags as well. I know these things sound basic but you'd be surprised how many people forget these steps, especially if it's their first engine pull. And I assume you have a Chilton's or other manual for the removal and that you've read it a few times. And don't forget to support that tranny; if you don't whoa boy!! A suggestion, don't let that step uncle of yours handle that or any other job. ;} Relatives, you just can't get rid of them. |
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Replying to: goodwrench4eve (Mar 04, 2005 8:31 am) Welcome to the Forums. Unfortunately you seem to be in the wrong topic here. This topic is strictly for Engine Removal Questions. Try using our "search forums" feature to the left of this page and type in the keyword "Technical Question" for one possible place to post, or "electrical gremlins" for another. You can also use "browse by vehicle" to find other owners who might have come up against this problem. thank you MrShiftright Host |
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My grandson has a '96 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST Turbo w/Auto Trans. He had a rod go thru the pan the other night and the Cyl wall is scored so will need new engine. I have worked on cars for approx 50 yrs but have not had any experience pulling engines on front wheel drives. My question is: Can I pull the engine without pulling the trans? I am waiting for the Factory Service Manual. I have checked Mitsubishi forums but they don't seem to know for sure. I've gotten 3 different answers. 1. Have to pull trans with engine. 2. Have to drop trans, then pull engine. 3. With Auto trans, support trans, unbolt torgue converter and push into trans, then can pull engine. Does anybody know for sure what works? Sure would appreciate some help' Thanks John
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Replying to: blasterman (Apr 15, 2005 11:05 pm) Engine REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Relieve the fuel system pressure. If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable. If equipped, remove the engine under cover. Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work. Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and intercooler. If equipped with AWD, remove the transaxle and transfer case. Tag and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses, brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector, throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection (California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the alternator and oil pressure switch wires. If equipped, with A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside. Remove the power steering pump and wire aside. Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation. Attach a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly. Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine compartment.
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Replying to: alcan (Apr 16, 2005 11:07 am) This appears to be the procedure given in the Chilton's Manual. If you look about 10 lines up the page you will see it says" After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported". It doesn't defrentiate between A/T and stick trans. I don't think you could get enough clearance to get the engine off the trans input shaft of a stick trans. That's why I don't care much for these aftermarket manuals. There is always something they don't tell you. The incinuation is that you can take the engine out w/o the transaxle whether it's a stick or A/T. I also have the Haynes Manual. It says you have to remove the transaxle- period. The Mitsui Mechanic I talked to said he wasn't sure if you could pull the engine on an A/T and leave the transaxle in. He said they usually pulled them togather. That might just be to generate more revenue. The Mitsui forums didn't address the A/T trans, only the stick and said you had to pull both. I should have the Factory Manual in a couple of days, I'll see what it says. I still think there is room to pull the engine and leave the transaxle in place. I have made my living the past 20 years repairing all kinds of Machine tools and industrial equipment, much of which I had never seen before. I had a reputation for being able to repair stuff nobody else could so I think I can handle it. It's just kind of nice to talk to someone who has actually done something your not familiar with if you can. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Will post back with what I find out. Maybe somebody else will find the info helpful. Thanks, John
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Replying to: blasterman (Apr 17, 2005 12:54 am)
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Replying to: alcan (Apr 17, 2005 3:34 am) Yes, you can remove just the engine in a Mitsubishi Eclipse with an Automatic transmission. The Factory manual says you have to pull the trans first, but I found that is not necessary. This will only work for cars with A/T trans, Sticks will have to pull the transaxle or pull it with the engine. Most people I spoke with say they drop them out the bottom of the car but this requires getting the car high enough to have clearance to get the assy out. 1. Remove the crank pulley and the water pump pulley. This will give you about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of clearance to move the engine away from the bell housing. 2. Remove the battery. 3.Disconnect and label all necessary hoses and wiring plugs. 4.Remove the starter and lay back out of way. 5.Remove the A/C Compressor Mounting bolts and lay the compressor back out of the way, may need to use wire to hold it back. Do Not break any refrigerate lines. 6.Remove the Power steering pump bolts and lay the pump out of the way. 7. Remove the alternator. 8.Disconnect throttle linkage and lay back out of way. 9. Remove the radiator and fans. 10. Remove the exhaust header pipe. 11. Remove the torgue converter access/inspection plate. 12. Remove the 4 bolts in the flex plate/converter connection. Rotate the engine clockwise using a screwdriver in the flywheel or a 1/2" drive ratchet in the crank pulley. 13.Push the torgue converter back into the bell housing. May be stuck in pilot bushing. I made a couple of retainers to put pressure against the convertor and prevent it from coming out with the engine. I used 2 pieces of 12 Ga steel about 1 inch wide X 2 1/2" long. Drill hole in one end, bent in about a 45 deg curve. Attached to Front and back of bell housing with Inspection plate bolts. Don't dent or bend the torgue convertor housing. 14. Connect hoist and take a strain on engine. 15.Remove bell housing bolts. 16. Remove top engine mount linkage near timing cover. 17. Carefully rock engine to help break torgue converter/pilot bushing loose. 18. Move engine clear of convertor and bell housing, then slightly forward so intake manifold will clear solenoids on firewall, then up and out of car. 19. Go slow and keep looking around engine to make sure nothing gets hung up. Note- First step should be remove the Hood. This allows you to roll the car back outside or whatever while you work the engine over. Only requires a Cherry Picker or other suitable hoisting mechanism. This is the general procedure. Common sense is still required . Saves alot of time and effort. Hope this might help others needing to pull the engine in an A/T equipped car. John |
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Alas, I have searched all over the net and have yet to find the exact answer I desire and I hope you can help me out. I purchased the vehicle listed above about 6 months ago and when I did the previous owners told me that the transmission had just been serviced and the front axle replaced and the vacuum lines were not connected. Well I got to looking and have discovered not connected means no vacuum actuator and 3 lines just laying there. I have got it down to knowing that there is 2 smaller lines and one larger one and one of the lines has to connect to the vacuum actuator and the other two; I don't even know. I was wondering if you could tell me where the larger line goes and the two other lines go and how to tell which line was which; I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Corey
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I own a 54 caddy with stuck 331. I want to put a SBC in her. The 331 has front motor mounts and was wondering if any one would know a good swap that might mount up to the original tranny. I pretty new at this stuff but willing to learn. I need an idea of fast cheap motor swap. Thanks
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Replying to: rustedhumfleet (Aug 26, 2005 10:29 am) |
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