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Engine Removal

36 messages,  Last post on Aug 10, 2008 at 8:30 PM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Engine, Coupe, Convertible, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV, Van


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#1 of 36
Engine Removal by blackchevy1990
Feb 20, 2005 (4:30 pm)
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Im taking the engine out of my 1990 Chevy Silverado 350, 5.7 liter. I have no clue what the torque converter-to-drive- plate bolts are, or where they are. Can anyone help me?
#2 of 36
Re: Engine Removal [blackchevy1990] by alcan
Feb 21, 2005 (6:50 am)
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Replying to: blackchevy1990 (Feb 20, 2005 4:30 pm)

The drive plate is the flexplate or flywheel bolted to the back of the crankshaft. The bolts you refer to attach the flexplate to the torque converter. With the starter and converter splash shield removed, rotate the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the front balancer centre bolt for access.
 
Are you sure your experience level is up to this?
#3 of 36
Re: Engine Removal [blackchevy1990] by blackchevy1990
Feb 21, 2005 (7:36 am)
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Replying to: blackchevy1990 (Feb 20, 2005 4:30 pm)

So the bolts are on the flywheel or behind it? Im not that experienced but we have to get it out anyways. After an incident involving my step uncle, a screwdriver, and my number one spark plug hole he somehow messed up my engine pretty bad trying to find top dead center (dont ask).
#4 of 36
Re: Engine Removal [blackchevy1990] by alcan
Feb 21, 2005 (11:12 am)
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Replying to: blackchevy1990 (Feb 21, 2005 7:36 am)

3 threaded lugs welded to the front face of the converter just in from it's outer diameter, 3 holes in the flexplate. The bolts go through the flexplate into the converter. Remove the cover and rotate the engine, you'll see them.
#5 of 36
Re: Engine Removal [blackchevy1990] by blackchevy1990
Feb 21, 2005 (12:29 pm)
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Replying to: blackchevy1990 (Feb 20, 2005 4:30 pm)

Okay ill try that, ill let ya know if it works. You sound like you know what your talkin about, i may need to ask ya more stuff as i get to it!
#6 of 36
2000 Silverado Fuel Gauge by goodwrench4eve
Mar 04, 2005 (8:31 am)
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My 2000 Silverado Z71 Ext 5.3 exhibits a rare condition. After starting and running for a minute or so, the fuel gauge drops to "E" and the low fuel indicator comes on. As soon as I put the trans into "D", the gauge reads correctly. If placed in "P", after a minute or so the gauge drops to "E" again. Can you point me in the right direction ? Sending unit, instrument cluster, wiring ?
#7 of 36
blackchevy1990 by jae5
Mar 04, 2005 (1:46 pm)
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Also, before you start pulling the motor, take time and mark where the vacuum lines, wiring and other connections are. Take some pics of the engine bay while everything is still connected. Then as your pulling wires and lines, get some masking tape and a couple of black sharpies and start marking. Mark everything and make multiple copies of the pics (mark them as well) if you have to; it'll save you later on.
 
When your pulling bolts, place them in plastic bags and mark the bags as well. I know these things sound basic but you'd be surprised how many people forget these steps, especially if it's their first engine pull. And I assume you have a Chilton's or other manual for the removal and that you've read it a few times.
 
And don't forget to support that tranny; if you don't whoa boy!! A suggestion, don't let that step uncle of yours handle that or any other job. ;}
 
Relatives, you just can't get rid of them.
#8 of 36
Re: 2000 Silverado Fuel Gauge [goodwrench4eve] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Mar 04, 2005 (3:25 pm)
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Replying to: goodwrench4eve (Mar 04, 2005 8:31 am)

Hi goodwrench!
 
Welcome to the Forums.
 
Unfortunately you seem to be in the wrong topic here. This topic is strictly for Engine Removal Questions.
 
Try using our "search forums" feature to the left of this page and type in the keyword "Technical Question" for one possible place to post, or "electrical gremlins" for another.
 
You can also use "browse by vehicle" to find other owners who might have come up against this problem.
 
thank you
 
MrShiftright
Host
#9 of 36
1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST Engine Removal by blasterman
Apr 15, 2005 (11:05 pm)
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My grandson has a '96 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST Turbo w/Auto Trans. He had a rod go thru the pan the other night and the Cyl wall is scored so will need new engine. I have worked on cars for approx 50 yrs but have not had any experience pulling engines on front wheel drives. My question is: Can I pull the engine without pulling the trans? I am waiting for the Factory Service Manual.
I have checked Mitsubishi forums but they don't seem to know for sure. I've gotten 3 different answers.
1. Have to pull trans with engine.
2. Have to drop trans, then pull engine.
3. With Auto trans, support trans, unbolt torgue converter and push into trans, then can pull engine.
Does anybody know for sure what works?
 
Sure would appreciate some help'
Thanks
John
#10 of 36
Re: 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST Engine Removal [blasterman] by alcan
Apr 16, 2005 (11:07 am)
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Replying to: blasterman (Apr 15, 2005 11:05 pm)

Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990-1998 Repair Guide
Engine
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
 
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped, remove the engine under cover.
Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work.
Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and intercooler.
If equipped with AWD, remove the transaxle and transfer case.
Tag and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses, brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector, throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection (California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the alternator and oil pressure switch wires.
If equipped, with A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside.
Remove the power steering pump and wire aside.
Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation.
Attach a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly. Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine compartment.

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