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Smart Shopper Purchasing Strategies - Questions & Success Stories
3884 messages, Last post on Apr 08, 2009 at 1:08 PM
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Replying to: isellhondas (Aug 17, 2008 8:04 am) |
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Replying to: isellhondas (Aug 17, 2008 6:31 am) I know so, a comparable Honda at that time would have cost a thousands more (3-4K) and if I sell my car to the junk yard for $50 I would have lost less in depreciation dollar wise than I would have with the Honda. Per KBB the difference for trade in value between my car and a comparible Honda would be between $1,000 and $1,300 depending on condition. Far less than the 3 grand original price difference. |
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Hyundai is no longer the low price leader when the two cars are compared.
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Replying to: isellhondas (Aug 17, 2008 11:13 am) |
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please tell me if is a good idiea to put a 17 inches weels on a 2008 chevy 4x4 v8 2500 this truck is to snow plowing thank you
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Replying to: jardineiro (Sep 10, 2008 11:08 am) |
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Like any good shopper, I did my homework, which included Edmunds.com. The car I want has a retail TMV of $4,200. The sticker is for $4,995. The vehicle history report tells me that the vehicle has been on the lot since May-- four months. I know for a fact that they initially stickered the car at $6,495. I was going to use this in negotiations as evidence that it was to their advantage that they move this car, but then thought the salesman would use an excuse of "we went down that far, so how can you ask us to go down even more," so I didn't use this fact. So after doing all the actual pre-purchase work on the car, I made an offer of $3,800. I stated that the sticker price was not a bad offer for a typical car like that, but that he simply was not taking into account that this car has just over 100,000 miles. The guy said the dealer paid $5,200 for it (yeah right!), and they're already taking a loss. I then pointed out that while I respect the dealership's need to make a profit, it's not my fault if they overpaid. Some cars are like a bad stock. If you buy one at $50 and it goes down to $40 and you know it will go down more (which the value of this car will do every day it sits on the lot), you don't hold onto it until it reaches $20. You cut your losses and move on. So I pointed out that the mileage is indeed high, considering the car is six years old, times 12,000 miles is 72,000. He then proceeded to rattle off some stuff about leased cars having typical mileage between 15K to 18K (is this true, guys?) to which I replied that I don't care about leased cars-- I am not leasing. After some back and forth, he went outside to talk to the owner of the dealership on the phone. He said the lowest he can go is $4,700. I said that was better, but not good enough, so that is the point that I whipped out the Edmunds TMV and went through it line-by-line, explaining that every facet of the car was under consideration, and that this figure of $4,200 was a fair deal for both sides and respected the need and right of a dealer to make a profit. He said the "internet stuff is just a guide" and that "I have been in this business for 25 years and I have never bought or sold a car at a price from a source like that." Well, what could I say to that? I knew he was full of it, but how can I disprove that it is "just a guide?" So I reiterated my position, and we talked for some more, and then explained that once taxes and title, etc., come into play, this will be all my bank will finance (true) because it is the high book value from the NADA. I let him know that I wasn't using KBB because that is usually lower, and that I didn't want to cheat him. I said that I know dealers use the NADA, and that I had seen on his computer monitor the NADA logo. He said that it doesn't matter what the banks offer, because banks are in it to make money. I asked how is it that he expects to sell cars if he asks for a price that people can't finance for-- how can they buy a car without the money? I don't recall his exact answer (it obviously wasn't very good), but he also explained that since it's not his name on the dealership, and since he doesn't own the dealership, he can't go any lower (BS! Why else would they hire him, a SALESMAN, if he wasn't allowed to complete a sale). He reiterated what he said several times: that he wasn't going any lower, and he wasn't going to argue, and that he was done. So I said okay, we exchanged numbers, and he said he would have the owner's son call me the next day (today). So I left. Of course, I know better than that. While they are surely desperate to make a sale, seeing as how the car has been there four months (as are many cars they have, thanks again to the reports-- I will point this out next time), I know they want to make me wait a few days, hoping I will blink and be the one to call back and give up my leverage. Indeed, they have not called today. (By the way, the owner's son is a part-time salesman who is about my age. I had spoken to him about the car over the phone a few times.) |
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Replying to: weathermike (Sep 16, 2008 1:04 pm) That's an old dealers trick. Mark the car at the high end of high, then twenty second later lower the price by 3 grand so the customer thinks he's saving a lot of money. Sounds like this salesman knows you really want this car and is working you for maximum jackpot. If he doesn't call back in a couple days, looks like you'll have to pay his price or look elsewhere.
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Replying to: weathermike (Sep 16, 2008 1:04 pm) It's not personal, it's just business. You should have walked much sooner - it was obvious your disagreement on the price was irreconcilable - but shouldn't have given him any lesson how to do his business. After all, it's their car - if they like washing it every two weeks for the next five months, let them. 
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Replying to: jipster (Sep 16, 2008 1:28 pm) Thanks for the input. |
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