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SUVs Toyota RAV4 Toyota RAV4 2006
4666 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 4:56 PM
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| Has anybody had to replace their brakes yet for their '06 Rav4? I have 45k miles and have traveled all over the place in the car. I don't notice any rubbing but was curious when other people are replacing their brakes? Thanks. | |
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Replying to: charles64 (Jul 19, 2008 7:03 am) Regular Maintenance Both manual and automatic transmissions require regular maintenance to help ensure their proper operation. Transmission fluid loses its friction properties and can become contaminated over time. The maintenance schedules in Repair Manuals or Owners Manuals indicate the appropriate intervals based on how the vehicle is used. Currently (2008) for vehicles that are used for towing (severe service), recommended replacement of the automatic transmission fluid at is 60,000 miles or 72 months and every 30,000 miles, or 72 months thereafter. This is for drivers who regularly: • Tow a trailer, or use a camper or car top carrier • Operate on dusty, rough, muddy or salt-spread roads • Travel short distances (less than 5 miles) when the outside temperature is below freezing • Engage in low speed driving for long distances or extensive idling (e.g. police, taxi drivers or delivery personnel) Manual transmission vehicles regularly used for towing should have their transmission fluid replaced at 30,000 miles or 36 months and every 30,000 or 36 months thereafter. The normal maintenance schedule for both automatic and manual transmission does not recommend an inspection of the fluid or any specific replacement interval. This is for vehicles that are not routinely used for towing (severe service). Automatic transmissions using ATF-WS fluid (2004–2008) have an inspection interval of 100,000 miles and no specific replacement interval. Checking the Fluid Level in Automatiatic Transmissions The fluid level in an automatic transmission should be checked with the dipstick after the transmission has been warmed up to normal operating temperature (approximately 158°F to 176°F). As a rule of thumb, if the graduated end of the dipstick is too hot to hold, the fluid is at operating temperature. The fluid level is proper if it is in the “hot” range between “hot maximum” and “hot minimum.” The “cool” level on the dipstick should be used as a reference only when the transmission is cold. The correct fluid level should only be checked when the fluid is hot and the transmission is in “Park” with the engine running at idle. To ensure proper operation of the automatic transmission, the fluid level should be kept at the correct level at all times. If the fluid level is too low, the transmission oil pump can draw in air, causing air to mix with the fluid. This lowers the hydraulic pressure, causing slippage and potential damage to the clutches and brakes. If the fluid level is too high, the planetary gears and other rotating components agitate the fluid. This can cause air bubbles to collect in the fluid and may result in similar complications as a low fluid level. In addition, this aerated fluid tends to rise in the case and may leak from the breather plug at the top of the transmission or through the dipstick tube. Transmissions using ATF-WS (some model Toyotas 2004–2008) are sealed units and do not require a fluid change during the life of the vehicle under normal operating conditions. Therefore fluid checks are not necessary and the dipsticks have been eliminated on these vehicles. In a transaxle (front wheel drive) the differential is part of the transaxle and is lubricated by the same fluid as the transmission, regardless if it’s an automatic or manual transmission. Automatiatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is a special hi-grade petroleum-based mineral oil mixed with several special additives. From 1994 through 2008 the main types of automatic transmission fluid used in Toyota vehicles are: • Dexron III • Type T • Type T-II • Type T-IV • ATF-WS Transmissions specifying Dexron III can only use that type of fluid. Type T-IV can replace both Type T and Type T-II. ATF-WS is only used on some later model Toyotas (2004–2008) and has the advantage of a 100,000 mile inspection interval and no required fluid change during the life of the vehicle under normal operating conditions. Therefore the transmissions on these vehicles are sealed, eliminating the transmission fluid dipstick. |
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Replying to: ajg33 (Jul 29, 2008 12:11 pm) |
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I recently brought my Rav4 in because the brake booster failed. What a scary experience that was, I was driving slowly thank God, when I had to use my brakes but they weren't there for me. I immediately took my Rav4 to our family mechanic and his findings were the brake booster. $900.00 to repair. The kicker tho is this, he's not sure if the master cylinder played a role in the booster's failure, he needs to replace the part then test it so we are looking at another possible repair bill. ($600-$700) My vehicle is 12 days over the 36 months and it has 44,000 miles. This is my first Toyota and my last. I have always had good fortune with my cars. I am curious if anyone else has had or are having the same issues?
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Replying to: judy34 (Jun 14, 2009 7:38 am) I doubt Toyota would help, otherwise why sell extended warranties. I can say that extended warranties on them are very cheap, and $700 is really not that bad after the 3rd year. |
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Replying to: judy34 (Jun 14, 2009 7:38 am) You post implies, clearly, that something more than the booster had failed, was failing. |
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I have a 2006 Rav4 that had a tire that was loosing air. I would refill the tire and after a week or so it would loose pressure and the tire pressure light would turn on. I took it to a local mechanic and found that it was the tire pressure sensor valve that was leaking air. For $20 he replaced it with a regular value versus $100 for a sensor valve. The problem is the tire pressure light on the dash is still on. If I ask the dealer to reset the light will it go off or will the light always be on because one of the tires does not have a sensor? Thanks.
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Replying to: ajg33 (Jun 17, 2009 9:24 am) Also more likely than otherwise it was simply a defective valve core/seal, or maybe even a valve core seal seat, easy repair or at worse a 25 ct part. |
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Replying to: ajg33 (Jun 17, 2009 9:24 am) |
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Replying to: ajg33 (Jul 29, 2008 12:11 pm) Is anyone else having this problem.
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