Last post on Mar 28, 2013 at 11:28 AM
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Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV
#698 of 745 Poor overall quality
Aug 13, 2011 (10:40 am)
In August 2009, I bought a certified used 2007 Tahoe LTZ from Eatontown Chevrolet in NJ. The car has been nothing but a major nuisance for my family.
The dealer provided no mats or headsets for the factory DVD, only one set of keys, and no manual. The tires had major dry rot, which they were unwilling to change at sale. So we bought a set and the dealer didn't even give us a deal for purchase or install.
Within the past 24 months, we've had to have the rear lift gate fixed 4 times, the brake pads/rotors replaced/cut twice, the rear diff serviced and just recently replaced, the auto leveling suspension fixed, the check engine light fixed three times, and a coolant leak fixed. Oh, and a the battery went twice.
Now the clear coat is coming off the car, all over the place. The front driver side quarter panel is, in areas, down to the base coat. The plastic, color matched strips affixed to the doors are all brown now, look horrible. Unacceptable.
While I am glad I bought an extended warranty, I strongly advise against buying this car new or certified used. Poor quality. And the warranty won't cover our paint problems. Our attempts to have our concerns fell on deaf ears with GM corporate last year.
#700 of 745 2001 Tahoe Rough Idle/Skip After New Plugs and Wires
Aug 18, 2011 (10:32 am)
Sorry if this has been asked and resolved before, but I'm new to this forum and have run out of ideas.
I have a 2001 Tahoe 5.3 2wd that has 160000 on it. I replaced the plugs and wires just for general maintenance and tune up, and now it wants to skip/idle rough at low speeds or while sitting still...what gives? I replaced the plugs with AC Delco Iridium pre-gapped at .040. Also put on new wires. My truck wasn't skipping before so it has to do with plugs/wires right? I rechecked everything, even put new wires on for a second time just to make sure they werent bad, and still no solution. I'm out of ideas...please help.
#702 of 745 2007 Chevy Tahoe - Check Engine
Sep 19, 2011 (10:52 am)
On Saturday, as I was driving on the interstate, my Check Engine light came on. I couldn't think of anything that would cause this at the time. The car was acting fine, and while I'm getting close on the oil change, the Tahoe is equipped with an oil change reminder as well (which has not yet shown up), so I was assuming this was not the case.
Fast forward to this morning, I get into the parking deck at work, and as I'm rounding the corners to climb from level to level, my car starts dragging as if I had a flat tire (though this was not the case). So I struggled to actually make the turns all the way up, my rear tires are squealing the whole way and I finally get it into a parking space.
I hop out, take a look around, no flat tire or visible impedance in the axles or anything, so I decide to give it another drive to see what happens. As I pull out of the spot, there is a loud POP underneath the vehicle. It sounded as if something was stuck somewhere and was jarred loose. Anyways, the steering loosens up, everything's back to normal....AND my check engine light goes off.
Has anybody else seen this happen before? Any experts out there have any ideas as to what it could be attributable to? I realize I should probably have the diagnostics run on it, but I'm also trying to avoid unnecessary expenditures these days.
Any intel would be greatly appreciated.
#703 of 745 Re: 2006 Tahoe [jim457]
Oct 04, 2011 (7:00 pm)
I just took my 2007 GMC Yukon XL to the dealership today for a clicking sound that happens once in a while. They said it was the camshaft and lifter and if fixed would run around $4000 or replace the engine for $6000. What did you end up doing? Mine has 70,000 miles and is out of warranty.
#704 of 745 Front end rattle
Nov 08, 2011 (1:52 pm)
I have a 2005 Tahoe I bought used in 2010 from a local auto dealer. From day one I noticed a rattle like noise from the front end. This noise seems to only happen when the road is uneven or has bumps. It sounds like metal knocking on metal. I have had a complete service from a Chevy dealer and they noted nothing wrong or out of place. This rattle is constant when driving on rough roads no matter if I am driving straight or making turns. I looked through the forums but could not find anyone who has the same issue. If any one knows what this is please help. The dealer was no help and a local repair shops can hear it but dont know what it is cause nothing is loose when they look under the car. Also my other issue is my fuel gauge shows inaccurate fuel levels. I can fill my car up and then it read empty with warning light and sound. After a few minutes it will read correctly. At other times it will read I have more fuel than I have or when driving just drops to empty. Anyone know whats up with this?
#705 of 745 Re: 2006 Tahoe [emmanuelg]
Nov 08, 2011 (8:32 pm)
I believe the camshaft/engine is part of the 100K Powertrain warranty.
#706 of 745 Re: Front end rattle [dmntd]
Nov 09, 2011 (7:17 am)
Iím sorry to hear about this rattling concern youíve described and that the visit you made to the Chevrolet Dealership wasnít successful in working towards a resolution. If we can follow up with the dealership for you and further investigate, please email us with your name, user name, contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and the name of your involved dealership.
GM Customer Service
#707 of 745 Re: Front end rattle [dmntd]
Nov 18, 2011 (4:44 pm)
Your front rattle is most likely the upper control arm bushings. Every thing will appear to be "tight" but it really isn't. You may be able to see the wear by opening the hood and looking where the control arm attaches to the frame. The only "real" way to tell is to relieve the spring presser and if they are "bad", it will rattle like a bolt in a tin can. I would suggest that you take it to a good Mechanic you trust and ask him to check the control arm bushings, if he is any good, he should find it right away. Good luck.
As for your fuel gauge issue, it could be the sending unit located in the gas tank or the gauge itself, I've seen both. Tell you Mechanic about it and he should be able to do some tests to isolate the problem. Hope this helps and