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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

580 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 5:22 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV


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#571 of 580
chocking out and back-fireing when i try to give alot of gas pedal by wh7952
Oct 25, 2009 (5:15 pm)
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Over the last month my 99 5.7 4WD Tahoe has been giving me problems accelerating when I give it a heavy foot. When I hit the gas down it loses acceleration almost like it's being starved of air or gas. When I hit the gas the engines just bogs down, begins to hesitate, and will not accelerate. kinda like when you have a dirty fuel filter
#572 of 580
Re: chocking out and back-fireing when i try to give alot of gas pedal [wh7952] by wh7952
Oct 25, 2009 (5:18 pm)
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Replying to: wh7952 (Oct 25, 2009 5:15 pm)

I have already cleaned the mass air flow sensor, air temp sensor
#573 of 580
Re: chocking out and back-fireing when i try to give alot of gas pedal [wh7952] by 73shark
Oct 25, 2009 (5:53 pm)
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Replying to: wh7952 (Oct 25, 2009 5:18 pm)

Check your fuel pressure. Could be a failing fuel pump.
#574 of 580
Re: chocking out and back-fireing when i try to give alot of gas pedal [73shark] by kiawah
Oct 25, 2009 (6:09 pm)
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Replying to: 73shark (Oct 25, 2009 5:53 pm)

or clogged fuel filter, from a bad load of gas
#575 of 580
Re: chocking out and back-fireing when i try to give alot of gas pedal [73shark] by wh7952
Oct 26, 2009 (4:07 pm)
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Replying to: 73shark (Oct 25, 2009 5:53 pm)

I unplugged my mass air flow sensor and the truck was a new truck, ran scary fast and had so much power like it was a new truck. Is it safe to run the truck with the sensor unplugged untill i get a new one installed?
#576 of 580
Re: chocking out and back-fireing when i try to give alot of gas pedal [wh7952] by 73shark
Oct 26, 2009 (5:48 pm)
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Replying to: wh7952 (Oct 26, 2009 4:07 pm)

I doubt it. It will set a DTC and probably go into a fixed fuel/air map that is rich to prevent engine damage. Probably why you're seeing/feeling increased power but have you checked mpg?
#577 of 580
1999 Chev Tahoe- Leak Front Differential by moverfors
Nov 22, 2009 (6:07 pm)
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I just noticed significant drips on the garage floor coming out of the front differential....couldn't pinpoint where. Am I in for a big bill? Should I go to a regular mechanic or a transmission place?
#578 of 580
Re: 1999 Chev Tahoe- Leak Front Differential [moverfors] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Nov 22, 2009 (6:33 pm)
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Replying to: moverfors (Nov 22, 2009 6:07 pm)

Depends. If the drip is in the front case (the side with the ten bolts) that's pretty simple. If the leak is on the driveshaft side (shaft from the transfer case) , that could require a bit more skill. That would be a pinion seal and it requires about 1.3 hours labor. If it's leaking from either left or right axle seals ( axles going to either front wheel), that's more complicated about 3 hours for one side and maybe 4 hours total for both sides. A good regular mechanic should be able to deal with these but if it were a pinion seal I might go to a transmission shop as it requires precise torqueing.
#579 of 580
2002 Chevy Tahoe- Front wheel berings need to be packed. by dustie1
Nov 23, 2009 (5:02 pm)
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My left from wheel is making a sound like I have hug mudding tires on, my husband removed the left front tire in hopes to grease and pack the bering but discovered he couldn't get to them. If you know what type of berings these are please let use know do we need to replace the whole thing or is there a way to do it from home to save the money and not take to dealer. If you have done this job from home and can tell us how please let me know. Thank you and happy holidays.
#580 of 580
Re: 2002 Chevy Tahoe- Front wheel berings need to be packed. [dustie1] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Nov 23, 2009 (5:22 pm)
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Replying to: dustie1 (Nov 23, 2009 5:02 pm)

if the bearing noise is that loud I'm afraid it's beyond the point of packing with grease. I mean, that might get you by for a little bit but the damage is done. Bad bearings can, in extreme cases, cause a lot of other problems as well.
 
Front Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement
 
Removal Procedure
 
Notice: Never place vehicle on the ground with the halfshaft removed or the halfshaft nut torqued improperly. Otherwise, bearing seals may become dislodged causing premature wear and/or damage to the hub and bearing assembly.
 
   1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
   2. Remove the tire and wheel.
   3. Remove the rotor.
   4. Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
   5. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts. (15 series)
   6. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts , the 25/35 series.
   7. Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
   8. Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore, the 25/35 series.
   9. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt.
  10. Clean and inspect the O-ring seal, the 25/35 series.
  11. Replace the seal if the following conditions exist:
 
          o Nicks
          o Cuts
          o Dry or brittle
          o Compression set
 
Installation Procedure
 
   1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing.
   2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
   3. Install the O-ring to the steering knuckle, 25/35 series. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
   4. Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt. Tighten the bolt to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
   5. Install the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield to the vehicle, 25/35 series.
   6. Install the wheel hub and bearing (4) and splash shield to the 15-series steering knuckle.
   7. Install the wheel hub and the 15-series bearing mounting bolts. Install the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts, the 25/35 series. Tighten the bolts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
   8. Install the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolt to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
   9. Install the rotor.
  10. Install the tire and wheel.
  11. Lower the vehicle.
 
If you need diagrams, check w/ your local public library or get a workshop manual at Autozone or Kragen.

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