Last post on Nov 17, 2013 at 7:32 PM
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Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV
#353 of 762 Transfer Case indicator Lights
Feb 04, 2007 (8:51 pm)
I own a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71. Does anyone know anything about the lights by the push buttons you use to switch between Auto 4 Wheel Drive, 2 Hi, Neutral, 4 Hi, and 4 Lo. I always keep my Tahoe in 2Hi and the orange light is illuminated, that is unless I'm 4 wheeling, etc and need to be in 4 wheel drive.
Recently I noticed that while I was on my way home a Red light was on instead of the orange light for 2 Hi. It was dark so I couldn't see what this red light meant; the next day I checked it out. Apparently the Red light is for Neutral.
My Transfer could not have been in Neutral since I was driving and drove for over 40 miles. I did flash my High Beams on and off a couple of times prior to getting on the road to check them out. Could this have something to do with why the Red Transfer Case light for Neutral was on instead of the orange light for 2 Hi?
When I started it back up the next day the Red neutral light was off and the Orange 2Hi light was on. I did not notice any unfamiliar noises or driving condition. I have driven several hundred miles since and nothing seems to be wrong. It just irks me that the red light was on and I have no idea why?
I recently have had service done on my transfer case, transmission, and differential. 50K maintenance, fluid & filter change, etc. I had to use the Auto Trac II for the transfer case, which I think is a racked that Chevy has a monopoly on. I used Full Synthetic for the transmission and differential thou. I also had my Transmission and Rear Differential pan and cover replaced with the MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. I don't think that any of the above would have made the Red light come on. Maybe flashing the Hi Beams did it? Any one?
Also lately the heater for the passenger seat comes on all by itself when someone is sitting in it. Has this happen to anyone else?
Feb 04, 2007 (9:12 pm)
I just finished reading my owner’s manual again for the 2nd time and the WARRANTY Manual that came with my 2004 Tahoe.
I believe that I found out something really good for everyone concerned. Even after our 36/36 warranty has run out there are still several hundred parts that are covered under factory warranty that you probably don't know about up to 70K, 100K and even 150K for some parts.
For instances anything having to do with the emissions, and I mean anything. Even your Air Filter is covered up to 100K. The list is to long to type out, but I recommend that everyone read it.
Most of the problems listed above and in the forum are covered under factory warranty up to 100,000 miles that the dealers will not tell you about. You would not believe me if I typed it out, so please read your warranty manual to see for your self.
Also you can replace your factory parts with an after market part and you will not void any of the warranties. That is so long as the after market part is of the same quality or better than GM uses. And that is not hard to beat in most cases.
I have replaced at my expense, my Air Intake to a K&N 5700 series, my spark plugs to E3 and my plug wires to MSD Super Conductors. I have also replaced my Transmissin pan and Differential Cover with a MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. These hold more fluid and keep the parts cooler. Especially if you tow a trailer or do 4 wheeling. In addition I used Full Synthetic gear oil and Transmission fluid instead of the stock fluid and gear oil. This will also help the part last a lot longer. Anything small to help my 2004 Tahoe Z71 get better mpg and allow me to prevent any costly maintenance I have decided to do. As soon as I can afford it, I'm going to replace my stock coils with the MSD coils. The MSD coils will also improve the mpg as they put out a multiple spark compared to the stock coils. You can pick up a set of all 8 for a little over $700.00 at Kragens or Pep-Boys.
I guarantee that 99.9% of you will be shocked to discover that you have purchased a part that was covered under warranty.
#355 of 762 Re: 2004 Z 71 Problems w engine noise/clunk [sasz71]
Feb 13, 2007 (8:11 am)
Hey Sasz71, how is the truck now? My 2002 Tahoe with 68k has the same problem, just started.
#356 of 762 Re: Low RPM / IDLE [f_nabe20]
Feb 13, 2007 (10:26 am)
After about $1000 in replacing plugs and the MAF, I brought it to someone different and they discovered that my Manifold seal was cracked and leaking gas and air! This air leak was causing the LEAN BANK-1 and LEAN BANK-2 codes to be thrown. So another $500 and everything runs smoothly.
#357 of 762 Re: Transfer Case indicator Lights [johnny4016]
Feb 13, 2007 (6:34 pm)
Hello - My 2004 Tahoe Z71 is currently in the shop for the samething. I had in the shop about 8 months ago with the same problem. The chevy dealership said it was a eletrical short. 900.00 later it was fixed. Until now, it is going to cost me another 900.00 to repalce the computer. I am trying to find out more about this. I am sure it is something I can by for about 200.00 and install it myself. Thanks Rich
#358 of 762 Re: 2004 Z 71 Problems w engine noise/clunk [tomkost]
Feb 14, 2007 (9:31 am)
I would not say it's cured, but I listen for the noise everyday and only occassionally do I get the knocking noise on early morning start-ups. The Lucus oil additive seems to work with no adverse effects.
#359 of 762 Re: 2004 Z 71 Problems w engine noise/clunk [sasz71]
Feb 14, 2007 (10:24 am)
Thanks Sasz71. I went to the dealer yesterday and after talking to them for about 30 min, I'm starting to think it might be ok. Basically the sound only happens when on a cold start below 40deg, which is not so often in Dallas where I live. And it goes away in like 10-15 sec. If I let the engine idle a bit before taking off, no sound either. Otherwise the engine runs really good. The mechanic said his truck does the same thing. Since my truck is not under warranty, the dealer could have offered to make some expensive repairs, but they did not. So I at least have to assume they believe what they are saying to me. I'm willing to live with it for now and hope for the best. I'm not to inclined to put oil additives, but I might consider using synthethic oil in my next oil change to see if that changes anything. The dealer rep was not a big fan of synthetic oil either he said it was a not needed expense.
#360 of 762 Re: More to the glitch..99LT [jjuarez]
Feb 15, 2007 (11:04 pm)
HEY I WAS WONDERING IF YOU EVER FIG OUT THIS PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE VERY VERY RAMPID WITH TAHOES! I AM WORKING ON PURCHASING ONE MYSELF AND I KNOW THE PREVIOUS OWNER THEY HAD THIS EXACT PROBLEM ---NOTE TO ALL --- BC THE DEALER SHIP COULDNT FIX IT THEY GAVE BACK ALL MONEY FOR VEHICLE EVEN AFTER HE HAD IT FOR WELL OVER A YEAR-- CATCH IS HE HAD TO UPGRADE TO A NEWER VEHICLE AND AMT WAS APPLIED TO THE NEW VEHICLE SO HE GOT A 9995.00 TOWARDS HIS NEWER VEHICLE IN THE END ONLY LOSING MONEY SPENT TRYING TO FIX THE PROBLEM!! SO BE HARDNOSED AND SEE WHAT YOU CAN DO! ALTHOUG ANY HELP WITH THE PROBLEM WOULD BE GREAT!!
#361 of 762 Re: 04 Z71 engine ticking [PS2]
Feb 16, 2007 (5:59 pm)
I have this on my 01 tahoe. I agree with bamspeck. I would have found that a syn. oil (amsoil 0w-30) all but eliminates the problem. Sticks to the metal parts better.
#362 of 762 Re: Heat out of Air Conditioner [whiteta]
Feb 21, 2007 (12:41 pm)
My wife's 04 Tahoe had the same problem two years ago while it was under warrenty and they fixed it. Now it has happened again and we took it to the dealership and they were going to replace the same part. So I said BS to that and we are ordering the part. It's part AC/Delco #89018365 found on this website https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,ACDELCO,HEAT+xxampxx+AIR+CONDITIONING,6848,HE- ATER+xxampxx+AC+CONTROLSxxslashxxVALVESxxslashxxACTUATOR