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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair
474 messages, Last post on Aug 12, 2008 at 10:44 AM
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Replying to: 19tahoe99 (Sep 25, 2006 5:46 pm) By my Chevy dealer shop new crank shaft position sensor can set the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code), i.e. lit up the check engine light but even when this happens the truck will run. Re-learn will then take care of this 'false' code. I don't think your problem is with the crank shaft position sensor. In your earlier post you mention that you have plenty of spark and that you have plenty of fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Then when you pour fuel in the intake the engine tries to start. Sounds like you have fuel injecting problems, i.e. injectors are not injecting fuel in the engine. Sounds weird when you say that after changing crank shaft position sensor it started up immediately but then would not again after you shut it off. Could there be some short of loose wire connection with the crank shaft position sensor that messes up other circuitry. It almost sounds like your computer has gone bad as I think it controls injectors directly. That would be quite bad news as they can be costly to replace. Check your engine ground wiring. Make sure engine is well grounded to the vehicle body and that the ground wire from the computer is well connected to the engine. --Arrie--
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The wife's 03 Tahoe has started to lock or unlock the rear doors when it feels like it. You stop and put the vehicle in Park, they unlock.. sometimes. You then put the vehicle in gear and they lock.. sometimes. Yor press the door lock button and the either lock or unlock.. sometimes. Help is evidently needed. JB |
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Replying to: arrie (Sep 26, 2006 11:23 am) Cant believe it, turned out to be a bad fuel pump after all. Even though we tested 55+ PSI at the rail, it turned out sporadic. It wasnt holding a constant pressure, so the tests we got were completely misleading. What makes it worse is that it was replaced only about 8 months ago. Even worse- DONT buy from "Global-Automotive" on Ebay. Stated in auction was a new AC Delco fuel pump warranteed for 1 year. After attempting to contact many times, filing with ebay, and finally contacting AC Delco, turns out he's selling counterfeit parts and its an open scam on Ebay, Delco is mounting a case against him and took my info as well as many others. Ebay will not suspend him since he generates so many sales (10,000 transactions + in about a year). So, im out my money.. and I'll have to pay more for a new pump- sucks Thanks for the help- Ed |
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Replying to: dochou (Sep 05, 2006 11:35 am) Hope I didn't take to long. Your compressor belt is comming of because of the adjustement spring. If you have the grinding noise it may be because your compressor is going out. I have heard from other writers that a lubricant can fixx this. But what a dealer is going to tell you is that you need not only replace your compressore, but also your need to replace your rear compresssor. This is wrong many times.A true mechincie will examine wheather or not enought material has gotten to your rear area. If it has not you will save nearly a thousand dollars. None the less the price the dealer charegs is much higher than a specialist. Check rhe price from the dealer to an auto parts store. Then ask for the dealers wholesale dept. The price will be about $200.00 Less. Part only. |
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Replying to: harvvv (Sep 15, 2006 2:31 pm)
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Hello; I have a 1997 Chevy Tahoe with 4WD and the 5.7-liter with the CSFI system. Getting a “check engine” light that is coming back with a P0300, Multi-port misfiring error code. I am having a problem getting this fixed and I am not able to pass the NJ DMV inspection. I can feel the rough idle when sitting waiting at a light or stop sign, but feels fine during regular driving and/or on the highway. To make a long story short I got a full tune-up (plugs, filters, etc.) and the # 2&4 fuel injectors replaced, but still getting the error. I took it to the GM dealer and they trouble shoot it to a bad fuel pressure regulator and it is leaking fuel into the # 3&5 cylinders, causing the misfire. The cost will be $800+ to replace the regulator, replace the throttle body gasket and do fuel systems flush. What I don’t understand why is it only leaking in only two of the injectors as the regulator looks centralize? It sounds like the two mentioned injectors are the parts going bad. Any advice on this matter and if it sounds like it will take care of my problem. Thank you. |
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Replying to: bhtang64 (Oct 14, 2006 7:28 pm) Go buy the pressure regulator and change it yourself. The leak causing the problem on cylinders 3 and 5 I think means that fuel is leaking from the pressure regulator and dripping on the spark plugs around cylinders 3 and 5 causing a short on the spark plug boots and misfire. It would not make sense that due to pressure regulator going bad it would make only the injectors 3 & 5 to leak by. And a small amount of extra fuel in the cylinder would not cause a misfire anyways. If it is dripping externally please have the pressure regulator replaces ASAP as it is a serious fire hazard. Fuel system flush will not fix your problem. If it would, your vehicle now certainly would not run fine with higher speeds. Do you have the aluminum heat shields around spark plug boots? They can cause a spark leak to engine ground if not installed correctly. Also, old spark plug wires / boots lose their resistance over time and cause more spark leak. One easy trouble shooting step is to have your spark plug wires replaced. A set cost around $30 at car part stores (not dealer). Just make sure that the boots go deep enough on the plugs to minimize the spark leak. You can also replace the wires with high quality set that does not require use of the heat shields like I did. Set like this cost around $80, which is the cost of normal set from the dealer. Another item that could be the problem is the crank shaft position sensor. They are notorious of going bad and a rough idle is one of the symptoms. Sensor cost is about &70 or so from the dealer. To change it I think your starter motor must come down as it is located behind the motor. At least in my '04 tahoe it is. For the fuel system the only thing you need to do,in addition of changing bad pressure regulator, is to make sure your fuel injectors are clean. If you don't use injector cleaners in a regular basis it could be that injectors have build up deposits that do not allow a correct spray pattern and idle gets rough. With more throttle opening there is much more oxygen to burn and the injectors must open more. More open injector then woks better as the build up disturbs spray pattern less. Run a few tanks of fuel with injector cleaners to see if it helps. Sounds simple but this could fix the whole problem and cost you only about $10 - $15 extra. This is what I would do first (after replacing dripping fuel pressure regulator). About the throttle body gasket: Why do they want to change that? It certainly is not a problem source unless your throttle mounting bolts are so lose the gasket does not seal at all. I don't think that is the case. If you do find help for your problem based on this post or if you don't would you please post back the results. This forum does not work if the other readers can't see the end result. We all would appreciate that. Thanks, Arrie |
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1999 tahoe.keep getting service engine light,last 6 months,error codes p0430,p0420,p0304,p0300,have been trouble shooting(and spending big bucks) to correct, new catys,muffler& exhaust all new filters thru outincluding fuel&trans. fuel presure test,ok new plugs,wires,cap & rotor trans.flushed & oil changed,and fuel cleaners used. get the problem at high rev on highway,(65plus) engine gets rough,light gos on, smooths out,now getting hard to start takes two trys... frustrated!!!!! local mechs,are lost!!! help please anyone!!!!!!! |
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just got email,suggesting bad coil/ignition module,or bad pcm???? any coments,sugguestion???? need help bad..... |
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