Last post on Jul 12, 2013 at 4:53 AM
You are in the Acura RL
What is this discussion about?
Acura RL, Sedan
#638 of 897 Re: 2005 RL Service? [fighterwso]
Apr 16, 2006 (12:56 pm)
This is definitely surprising and not like my experience in northern nj.
First, I don't think Acura, as a brand, stands for this. So, if you haven't already, you should write as well as call Acura's regional customer service. Your opinion MAY count. Recently, there was an issue with my post-service survey, surprisingly, a few minutes after the survey call, I got a call from the service manages asking why I was unhappy.
I bought my car (used 04) in Florida in Jan 06. In Feb I took to one of the local dealers for some minor issues & oil change- they were very accomodating in every way except they did not give me a loaner. In March I took it to another local dealer, they were even better and gave me a TL as a loaner.
I would definitely complain to Acura
#639 of 897 Re: 2006 Acura RL Dueling Keypods [friedoyster1]
Apr 18, 2006 (4:11 pm)
It isn't actually random, it has to do with which key last unlocked the door. Whichever key unlocks it are the settings that are used. If my wife touches the door handle first, it goes to her settings, even though I've got my key and am on the driver's side. Drives her crazy - seems to bother her more than me when it happens.
#640 of 897 2006 RL dangerous transmission? computer? cat converter? Avoid like plague
Apr 19, 2006 (9:35 pm)
I purchased an 06 RL in late December 2005. Loved the car for the first 2900 miles. Then it started to drag. Ran sluggish. Sounded "throaty". Check engine light came on, check emissions light, and check sh-awd light. Take it in, am told they cleared the codes, and since they didn't come back on, my car is fine. They determined that the codes were "thrown" because the car thought the engine got too hot. However, because they could not duplicate the code, they refused to do any work on it, or even check it.
Called the hotline and was told that obviously this is a case of me not accepting that the dealership found nothing wrong with the car, and if the car is fine then there is nothing to be done. On the drive home, car acted worse than ever. Now it has no acceleration when you punch the gas if the car is revving under 2000 rpms. After punching it, the car takes between 1-2 seconds before doing anything, (I mean full seconds, one one thousand etc.)the odometer goes up to 5000 rpm and then the car lurches forward. So when cruising down the freeway, there is no passing power and no way to get out the way if an emergency situation arises. I was told I need to give the computer a second or two to determine what I am asking it to do. (Those two seconds can mean the difference between life and death.) This also happens on city streets when cruising, or slowing down to corner. Anytime the car is under 2000 rpms. Car also is now making a grinding metallic sound as it hits the higher rpms after being punched (above 5000). Car also is now shuddering when coming to a stop.
Service director verified all complaints (except the shuddering) and then proceeded to tell me that he drove other RL's and they had the same issue, so these are not a "problem" to be fixed, they are a "characteristic" of the vehicle. He test drove it and repeatedly, when driving at 40 mph if he punched the car, the car sometimes shifted into 4th gear, sometimes 3rd, and sometimes 2nd. According to him, this is normal. This "normal" characteristic makes it difficult to drive when your car reacts differently each time under the same circumstances.
American Honda Corp. sent DSM to test vehicle. He also test drove the other RL's on the lot and found they had the same problems. Therefore he agrees these are characteristics of the vehicle. They refuse to run any diagnostics on the vehicle or even attempt to fix anything. Mind you, the only thing that has been done on the car is that the service director drove it (he is not a mechanic he admits) the DSM drove it (he is also not a mechanic) and since they can't verify that my car drives
"differently" than other RL's they won't pay the mechanic to diagnose the vehicle. The corporate response is that you "don't need to be a mechanic to fix a vehicle" and why should they pay for diagnostics if two non-mechanics can't verify the problem. After all, they "can't chase every ghost when customers complain." I thought that is what the warranty was for?
They have had my car two weeks and I don't think they have opened the hood. Am told if the car doesn't say it is broken in its computer, then it is fine.
If this is fine, then Acura RL's have tremendous drag on their engines while attempting to accelerate, they have no reliable power for passing or accident avoidance, they make grinding metal sounds, and shudder when coming to stops. Buyer beware - this did NOT show up until I had had the car for 3 months. I loved the car at purchase but when the honeymoon was over, BAM!
Again, it is worth repeating - they have verified these complaints and say this is NORMAL.
Don't know if it is a faulty defective transmission, faulty defective drive by wire, faulty defective computer or faulty defective catalytic converter (the last one is the service director's hunch).
Whichever, anyone else enjoying these characteristics?
P.S. when choosing my name for this forum I made up sadrlowner but was told that name was already taken.
#641 of 897 Re: 2006 Acura RL Dueling Keypods [scottjohnson]
Apr 20, 2006 (6:55 am)
Funny... same here. My wife took the keypod out of her purse so she wouldn't win the race to the door handle anymore.
#642 of 897 Re: 2006 RL dangerous transmission? computer? cat converter? Avoid like plague [sad06rlowner1]
Apr 20, 2006 (7:04 am)
Sadrlowner, that is bizarre... both that the car is behaving that way and that the dealership (and Acura) is treating you that way. I have a 2006 RL with similar mileage and the only symptom that even partially rings true is the drag on the engines at low RPM, but I did notice that on multiple RL's before purchasing. If they choose to ignore you the best thing that could happen is to have the transmission seize up completely...when the car is towed into the dealership they can tell you that all RL's tow the same way.
#643 of 897 Re: 2006 RL dangerous transmission? computer? cat converter? Avoid like plague [sad06rlowner1]
Apr 20, 2006 (10:27 am)
Problems aren't limited to you.
"They all do that" must be taught at Acura school. My RL had sluggish performance, severe throttle lag at 50 mph, poor fuel mileage (16 mpg) and a host of electrical gremlins. Acura's response " no defect, they all do that." Acura went as far as to sent another RL out for a test drive to prove they are right. The test car got 11 mpg, had the same lag, an a variety of gremlins.
Sorry Acura, the RL just doesn't cut it.
#644 of 897 Re: 2006 RL dangerous transmission? computer? cat converter? Avoid like plague [sad06rlowner1]
Apr 21, 2006 (10:30 am)
Turns out the reason the car was acting so poorly was that it was in "backup" mode and stayed there. Apparently, after a code is thrown the car goes into backup mode, kind of like Windows safe mode, until it is sure it has been fixed properly. After the code is cleared, it can take up to 30 days for the car to cycle through all of its internal diagnostics to feel it is "safe" to come out of its shell again and work up to par.
The awful part about this whole experience was how the dealership did everything it could to ignore the problem, the corporate headquarters avoided the issue and even when it became clear what had happened, I was still told 'but it could be bad gas too" - anything to blame the issue on me. They even refused to write up the service repair order explaining about the backup mode issue even though that is what the mechanic told both my husband and I in front of the service manager.
While on the test drive, the mechanic says "yes, I remember driving with you when you came and the car ran really rough but that was because it was in backup mode because the check engine light was on". "So, how long does this mode stay in place?" "Up to a month after the light has been reset." "So, then that explains why it continued to run rough when I got it back from the dealership only a few hours after you had reset the code." "Well, not necessarily. It could be something else, like bad gas." "But you just said it was riding rough because it was in backup mode." "Yes, but that was while the light was on, so I knew that was the problem then, after that it could have been anything else (like something you did wrong)>"
Unbelievable. Even when they KNOW what is wrong, they still won't admit it.
Anyway, if you car runs like a golfcart, check to see that it is not in backup mode.
Apr 21, 2006 (7:35 pm)
Sorry to hear you're having these many problems and no one to attend to them. Let me be frank - I don't own any stocks of Honda Motors nor any member of my family works for them. So I have no reason to defend them. But the facts have to be presented as they are.
I own 2 Honda products:
1. 1998 Accord 4 cylinders with 130,000 miles. It is such a superb product that my wife rather drive Accord than her 2005 Toyota Camry with 14,000. Mind you, Camry is very good car but in comparison - 1998 Honda Accord out does 2005 Camry.
2. My other car is 2005 RL. I bought it in Sept 2005. It has over 8,000 miles. This car is loaded with all sorts of features. I got more bang for my buck. I love this car. I look forward to driving at each opportunity. I got 26.1 MPG at the average speed of 57 MPH; compare to what Acura declare in their Sales papers (18 - 26 MPG).
Is it a perfect car? No! I've experienced 2 problems with this car. One the grinding vibration between 1500 - 1700 RPM as many have mentioned. Two - I've driven this car up to 108 MPH and noticed that the tire vibration between 70-80 MPH. donít know why between 70-80 and why not at any other speed. Since the tires were rebalanced I have not taken the car for high speed test. Other than these 2 problems I've not encounter any other issue.
I have taken my car to the dealer for these issues and regular car services. Each time I went to the dealer they were more than cordial to accommodate me. I can not ask for more than this from dealer and the Tech support.
IMHO - Could this car be improved? YES!
1. Fix the grinding vibration between 1500 - 1700 RPM.
2. Turning circle is wider than it should be allowed for a car of this size.
3. Increase the size of the trunk. It is good size but not big enough.
4. Trunk net should be standard part of the Car and it should be hung closer to the end of the trunk (closer to bumper) not in the middle of the trunk - as it is now.
5. This is not the car issue but how Honda handles advertisement budget. It appears RL advertisement budget has to be the lowest of all other Honda car models. It is hardly advertised.
Before I bought my RL, I spoke to many Acura car owners. I found a very high number of them to be repeat customers. It says volumes about their product and customer service.
#646 of 897 Re: 2006 RL dangerous transmission? computer? cat converter? Avoid like pla
Apr 22, 2006 (3:53 pm)
Good to hear you are happy or at least not as sad...
I don't own an 06 yet but have been thinking of getting it.
reading your post, it appears that this so called "back up mode" has no visible lights or warning messages..right? If that is the case, Acura needs to address this. Most trivial conditions have warnings, e.g., washer fluid low. Even if there is no warning light/message, any indication the dealer should have seen it on their diagnostic tools and cleared it?
Does the owner manual say anything about it?
#647 of 897 Electric Tilt Steering
Apr 25, 2006 (9:58 am)
I have a 1999 RL in which the tilt steering wheel is stuck in a position that is too low. I can hear the electric motor when I move the switch to adjust the position but it will only move in and out and not back up.
Any ideas on what is wrong or what needs to be done to fix it?