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Coupes & Convertibles Ford Mustang Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions 
1524 messages, Last post on Oct 24, 2006 at 9:05 PM
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Replying to: mcd2 (Apr 06, 2005 4:32 am) Your Shaker needs a new head unit, also known by Ford and a simple swap out by your dealer. The "thunk" you're talking about seems to be an issue with auto trannys. Can't comment on that since I've never driven one, but be sure to let your dealer "hear" it. I think auto trannys in the Mustang are of the learning variety. My guess is the hesitation you feel is some sort of "map" the computer is trying to adjust to. You can do a couple of things to see if they help. First, drive the car hard and see if the tranny "relearns" or re-maps itself. Or, second, disconnect the battery overnight to see if the computer resets itself. |
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Replying to: thunderbird (Jan 02, 2005 1:41 pm)
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| Went to the dealer today and had no problems. The new fuel tank is on order. The hesitation on acceleration from a complete stop was explained by the mech that more than likely my traction control was kicking in to avoid a spinning of the wheels--makes sense. I forgot to mention the Shaker problem though. I'll see if it keeps happening. | |
Just got my GT and its super. No problems yet. Have a question on break-in period. I know there is no formal break-in period but I'm kind of old school and tend to take it easy the first 1000 miles or so...no flat out accelerations, etc. I've heard from another Mustang guy that with a car like this you should drive it like you will normally so the piston rings will seat properly. If I "baby" it now it will not respond like it really could later on. Any opinions out there on this subject?
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Replying to: 68wanabe (Apr 06, 2005 5:22 pm)  ) So I ended up doing that (I think it recommends for the first 1000 miles to drive it normally, but avoid cruising at a steady speed for any length of time). 30,000 miles later, she's doing just fine. |
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Most people are all over the map regarding break-in. Personally, I think manufacturing techniques and metalurgy have advanced so much over the years, that break-in is kind of passe. That's why I think manufacturers are so vague. But, as they say, no special break-in is really needed. While I do subscribe to varrying speeds (and more importantly, RPMs) and subjecting the engine to different load conditions for the first miles, outside of that, drive it like you normally would. I'll not take the RPMs past 4K in the first 500 miles. Between 500-1,000 miles I'll run it to redline a few times. Then, past that, It's "katy bar the door". I'll try to keep most of my driving limited to "city" driving (which by it's very natrue varries speed and RPMs). I've made a couple of short runs on the interstate. Will probably gradually increase that after 500 miles. More importantly, don't slam on the brakes for those first several hundred miles to give them a chance to "seat" and keep the rotors from warping. I've done this routine with all of my cars over the past 10 years. All (save one which was totalled) went well over 100,000 miles with no problems.
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Replying to: mcd2 (Apr 06, 2005 4:32 am) I'm having all the same problems as you except for the gas cut-off & catching again. Just got my 2nd Shaker Cd put in & now none of the buttons light up  night & the speed control volume doesn't work. Still have the "thunk". Service guy says he hears it, but doesn't know how to fix it. I bet if it wasn't under warranty he'd figure a way. Today was the first time I tanked-up since we bought the car & I noticed the fuel tank problem. I'm afraid next the tires will fall off as I'm cruising down the road. Sorry to say this, but I'm glad someone else out there is having some of the same troubles.
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I drived it like I stoled it from the git go, so far so good. The manual just says vary the RPMs. EVERYTHING ELSE is just people's speculations, biases, opinions. "Drive it like you stole it" sounded fun and was 100% consistent with manufacturer's directions - so that's what I did.
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I have a GT 5-speed. When backing up and turning I hear a popping sound as if the transmission cross member was loose or a rear end linkage bushing was missing. Has anyone else heard this? |
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Don't know the build dates of those of you experiencing problems, but I know around early-mid March builds have the fuel fill-up fix and the "B" series shaker that alleviated the CD skipping problems. For a self test to see if you have the "B" series Shaker, turn your stereo on. Switch it to "AM/FM". Hold down the 3 and 6 numbered keys simultaneously. The Shaker will go through a series of "self-tests". At the end of those tests, a number will pop on the Shaker screen. At the end of the series of numbers will be displayed. If the letter "A" is at the end, and you're having skipping problems, the dealer has a TSB to replace it with a "B" series model. Speed/volume control of the Shaker has to be programmed. See the owners manual on the procedure. I don't have any answers for the "clunking". I'd take it to another dealer's service dept and get their opinion. Mine was built on 3/24 and I've had none of these issues. Guess I'm lucky. |
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