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Maintenance & Repair Cold Weather Problems
106 messages, Last post on Mar 13, 2009 at 8:46 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: nycq (Mar 14, 2006 12:34 pm)
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Replying to: uwestef (Mar 15, 2006 8:52 pm) |
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Replying to: dmaljunk (Mar 17, 2006 7:15 pm)
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Replying to: nycq (Mar 21, 2006 1:51 pm)
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Replying to: dmaljunk (Mar 21, 2006 7:31 pm) After the IACV and ECU was replaced the car stalled again less than 50 miles brought it back to the dealer and the same code P0505 read..again the IACV was ordered and replaced and the dealership states everything is okay again...After I drive another about 50-70 miles the check engine sign lights up and the car stalls again this time I had the car towed and the dealership after checking wire etc.. said they have to replace both the IACV and ECU at the same time....so now this is the third IACV and 2nd ECU. I specifically asked them to please make sure thats what is I don't want to put my self in danger and the car stall in the middle of the highway. So again they reassure me and tell me they are very confident that everything is fine. Now another 3 days pass again my car stalls this time the check engine sign did not go on and again I had the car towed to the dealership. I paid for the tow they did not even offer a tow....GOt to the dealer and the service manager gets in the car after its taken off the tow truck and runs into the same problem wher the car turns on but it will not drive...he then presses on the gas with real force 2 -3 x and you can see smoke from the muffler smelling like gas..and he was able to drive the car..the tech looked at it and the code that come now is knock sensor and NAF ( it the keys) , but they said they erased those codes and the problem was the TPS which needed to be readjusted....again the car was tested with a road test and again the dealership states everything is okay. The car drove may be for about three days and stalled out again on me...now this time I used the technique that the service manager used by applying the gas and the car was driveable again for another three days...since the last visit to the dealer ship the car stalled about 5-7 times and each time I used the same technique....I found another mechanic that was referred to me..and he encountered the stalling problem so after he evaluated the car he said it was the Temperature sensor which was changed for $30. this was about a week ago...Now the car has not stalled ...the car drove smooth for the first couple of day but when it picks up speed the idle goes very high to about 2 - 3RPM before the car picks up speed. and the first few minutes into driving when the car is driven there is knocking noise that is heard...that was present before but its getting louder.... PLEASE HELP I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO>>>>THE car was brought brand new and is only 65000 miles. Ive taken it to 3 dealerships and 2 mechanics outside.
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Replying to: nycq (Apr 25, 2006 12:49 pm)
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Replying to: dmaljunk (Apr 26, 2006 6:20 am) It all started with a leaking muffler. The day all the problems started, the seam at the muffler flange broke. I was on the highway when it broke so nothing happened until I went to exit the highway. When I let off the throttle the engine shut off. I couldn't start it for the life of me. It would immediately shut off after turning over. I noticed that when I held the gas down the car would start. Just to get the car home I turned up the idle stop and brought it home to troubleshoot. The next day after the car was warmed up I moved the idle stop back down and the car stayed on. I replaced the muffler and the car seemed to be fine. One the car cooled down I had the same issue. I only have to hold the throttle opne for about 30 seconds and gently release the gas and it will stay running. I noticed that the higher idle at cold temps never occur. The idle goes straight to warm idle 700-800 RPM's. I also never got any engine lights. So far I've removed and cleaned the intake, IACV, MAF, throttle body and I find nothing but normal wear. I also pulled one plug at a time while cranking the engine to check if I had a leaky injector but I had no luck. I putt he scanner on it and the temp reads correctly and the throttle position checks out ok too. Ive got no vacuum leaks or engine codes. Once the car warms up, it starts fine, and after it sits for about 2-3 hours it wont start. I feel like im chasing a ghost here.... Anyone had any luck?? Thanks |
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| My 2003 Montana when cold makes a ticking/ slappping sound that seems to come from the accessory belt. The frequency varies with rpm, but is about 4 ticks per second. Once warmed up, the ticking stops. The belt looks fine, as do the pulleys. I thought maybe the tensioner is isn't working right when cold, but don't know how to confirm. Any ideas? | |
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Replying to: dmaljunk (Dec 18, 2005 9:33 pm) Thanks RS |
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My F250 runs rough and seems to cut out at random intervals, especially during acceleration or low RPM/high torque driving. It starts and idles rough but doesn't die. The warmer it gets, the better it runs. After it is completely warmed up, it runs normally. The effect is severe when ambient temps are below 10F and gradually lessen until there is almost no effect at 60F. I've checked the resistance on the coolant temp and air temp sensors both hot and cold and the reading are close to what the maintenance manual says. Any ideas? |
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