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Mazda CX-7

1258 messages,  Last post on May 24, 2009 at 8:11 AM

You are in the Mazda CX-7 Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Mazda CX-7, Concept Cars, SUV


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#1256 of 1258
Re: 2010 CX-7 [xgbt] by wwest
May 02, 2009 (9:51 am)
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Replying to: xgbt (Apr 28, 2009 11:40 am)

You could probably improve your CX-7's FE significantly by "wiring" the turbo wastegate fully open. Even greater improvement if you go the extra mile and mill the engine head to get the 12:1 compression ratio otherwise standard for a DFI engine.
 
It seems odd to me that the new non-turbo CX-7 engine isn't this same one but without the detuning/derating required of the boost capability via an exhaust powered turbo.
#1257 of 1258
my new cx-7 by ssellman
May 09, 2009 (6:11 pm)
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My new car has been a problem so far. I have 09 cx-7 sport model. The car has 2400miles on it and has been back to the dealship 3xs! First time the check engine light. The next time the windows and moonroof would open partially on their own. The car would be parked somewhere and I would come out and the windows and moonroof would be down grrrrr Sometimes when I shut the car off the seat would automatically go back. I took it back and they replaced the vehicle control module. Six weeks later it started again-grrrr. They had the regional engineer look at it and they changed the door mechanism. So far it hasn't happened again. But now my heated seat on the passenger side has malfunctioned. It heats only marginally. It seems the drivers side gets hot then subsides then heats up again. I wonder if that is normal. I love the way the car handles and rides. But oh how I worry about ongoing electrical problems. Mazda sent me 100 buck gift card for my troubles-thanks for nothin!
#1258 of 1258
Re: my new cx-7 [ssellman] by irismg
May 24, 2009 (8:11 am)
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Replying to: ssellman (May 09, 2009 6:11 pm)

It's been my limited experience that a "check engine" light is almost always a faulty oxygen sensor. That happened to my Corolla nine years ago...cost about $125 to fix, not a lot out-of-pocket. I would take it to either a better quality dealer or regular mechanic worth his/her salt who knows this and can fix it right. Make sure your regular mechanic is authorized to do warranty work. Hope this helps.

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