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Chevy Suburban

977 messages,  Last post on Mar 12, 2010 at 11:03 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Suburban, GMC Suburban, SUV

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#828 of 977 Re: Radio buttons -- paint coming off [tsf7] by jnt Apr 20, 2008 (7:19 pm)
Replying to: tsf7 (Mar 31, 2008 12:20 pm) Dealer do not sell buttons of radio. They do sell the whole radio. The cheapest way to cover these spots is probably to touch them up yourself since it costs hundreds of dollars for new or used radios   jt
#829 of 977 Re: 94 burb [jnt] by steve_ HOST Apr 20, 2008 (9:22 pm)
Replying to: jnt (Apr 20, 2008 6:15 pm) Lots of people buy used 'burbans and don't have owner's manuals.   Chevy owners are pretty lucky - GM lets you sign up to mygmlink.com and download owner's manuals back to 1993.   Most manufacturers only go back a few years, and some don't offer any help at all.   How To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online
#830 of 977 Re: 97 Suburban Wiper & Electrical Problems [97dm] by kiawah Apr 21, 2008 (6:41 am)
Replying to: 97dm (Apr 14, 2008 12:14 pm) 97 suburban's had a problem with the printed circuit board inside the wiper motor. I don't remember whether it's a bad solder joint, or exactly what the problem was. I replaced my whole motor unit, before I heard about a general manufacturing problem. There may have even been a TSB if it failed during warranty period. Standard replaceable unit, should be able to pick them up at any auto parts chain.   Had my 97 for 10 years, never a starter problem. Normal 4-5 year battery replacement cycle. Did have two alternators go casters up during the vehicle owenrship period.   Not exactly sure which fuse you are indicating is blowing, but if it is the 20A CTSY in fuse#3, that powers the courtesty lamps, cargo lamp, i/p compartment lamp, dome/reading lamps, vanity mirrors, and power mirrors. If you just had the recall done on the mirrors, they might have messed something up on that circuit in the drivers door.
#831 of 977 Re: Head light problem with my '97 suburban [grandslam] by haiii Apr 26, 2008 (7:25 am)
Replying to: grandslam (Apr 14, 2008 6:09 am) I have the same problem with my 96, I am also 50 bucks lighter, any responses or fixes that you have found?? My driving lights worked for a while but now all I have is parking lights. The buzzer module that goes off when you open the door was malfuctioning (going off while driving) and I thought maybe that could somehow be connected as that is when the headlights quit all together. Anyone have any answers or ideas???? Inquiring minds want to know.
#832 of 977 Re: no brake lights [samora1958] by squeezy May 17, 2008 (8:44 am)
Replying to: samora1958 (Nov 05, 2006 5:36 pm) have you found the problem? I am going thru the same thing.
#833 of 977 HELP Fuse keeps blowing when I press on brakes by squeezy May 17, 2008 (8:47 am)
I am having trouble. Everytime I press on the brakes the fuse blows. Has anyone had this problem?
#834 of 977 Intermittent Starting Problems by tj27 May 17, 2008 (2:30 pm)
I have problems when I drive the car for maybe 20 minutes and shut it off it has to sit before it will start again. Turn the key and nothing, no noise...after it sets a while turn the key and it starts up just fine. I have had the starter, battery, alternator, battery cables all checked, rechecked and even replaced but it still does the same thing. No turn over of the motor, so it would seem electrical...but why must it set for a period before it will start again? This a great family vehicle but it is making me nuts as when I take it to the dealer they can't find anything wrong with it either and in most cases if you leave it just idle it won't do when you shut it off. Replies to this message: kiawah (May 19, 2008 5:32 pm)
#835 of 977 Re: Intermittent Starting Problems [tj27] by kiawah May 19, 2008 (6:32 pm)
Replying to: tj27 (May 17, 2008 1:30 pm) You have to figure out whether it is the ignition switch and circuitry to the starter, the starter itself, or the battery and heavy duty cables.   Hang a fused test wire off of the starter into the car, so that you can measure the voltage of the ignition switch feed to the starter. It's the thinner wire to the primary side of the relay, on the starter motor. When this primary goes positive, the starter relay should engage, providing power to the starter motor. Wire this up, and wait till you have a no-start situation. Try to start the ignition switch, and measure the voltage on this wire. No (or low) voltage, you know the problem is 'upstream' coming from the ignition switch. If you have the correct voltage (13+volts), then you know the ignition circuitry is fine, and you need to look to the starter motor or battery/cables.   Once you know the ignition switch and circuitry is good, hang your test wire on the secondary side of the relay on the starter, it will be the big thick wire. (Disconnect your battery before you wire up any of these test wires.) Now wait for a failure again, and measure the voltage on the secondary when it fails. If you have 13+ volts, then your starter relay or starter is bad, because it's getting the voltage but not turning over. If you don't have the correct voltage, then either the battery is bad, there is corrosion in the connector or up in the wire itself.
#836 of 977 # 562 by heathhooper Jun 01, 2008 (10:39 am)
I am experiancing the same problem with my tahoe. Have you found a solution yet?
#837 of 977 Re: A/C Belt & Pulley Issue [parkerbobtampa] by heathhooper Jun 01, 2008 (10:40 am)
Replying to: parkerbobtampa (Feb 10, 2006 7:23 am) have you found a solution for this yet? I need some help.

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