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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Suburban
977 messages, Last post on Mar 13, 2010 at 12:03 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: chevmech (Feb 18, 2006 11:58 am) |
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I have a 1985 Chevy Suburban C2500 w/454 My High Beams are on all the time, and I cannot cancel them. I replaced the dimmer switch on the Steering column, above the pedals, but that did not solve the problem. Pulling the column stalk backwards does not result in a click, and I noticed that neither the new or old dimmer switch posses a detent in it’s movement. I therefore have 2 questions: 1) Is there a component connected to the stalk responsible for the click that I must replace? 2) I tested continuity of both the new and old dimmer switch, and they behaved the same. Curiously, throwing the switch trigger did not change the continuity. No matter what position the switch was in, there was always continuity between the bottom single connector, and the top right. The top left connector never has continuity with either of the others. Is this correct? Thank you for taking my question. |
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Replying to: startn2h8chevy (Jul 25, 2006 1:12 pm) |
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I am looking for some help with my 03 z71 suburban. First let me tell you my husband is deployed and I know little about the truck, other than what I have had to have done to it. So here goes, any help is greatly appreciated. In Dec my spark plugs went bad. So I had them replaced, plugs and wires. Ran great after that, until Feb/March. One of the cylinders had spark plugs that went bad. Misfire on #4 and #5. Well, guess what? It just happened again. I just had to have them replaced again. The mechanics are scratching their heads. Not sure what to do. I took it to the dealer and they don't know what's wrong with it either. I have had the o2 sensor replaced because it went bad shortly before the spark plugs went bad this last time. I have replaced the fuel filter and the intermediate(something) was lubed a few days ago. Still no answer to my spark plug problems though. If someone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Thanks Shannon
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Replying to: sburrous (Aug 16, 2006 7:59 pm) --Arrie-- |
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The codes were misfires. But the spark plug that they gave me this last time was cracked. It's always a misfire on the same cylinder. The same spark plugs. Shannon
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Replying to: sburrous (Aug 20, 2006 10:30 am) The spark plug boots have an aluminum heat shields installed around them. Some of the spark leaks through the rubber boot to the heat shield and from that to engine ground thru a grounding spring mounted in the end of the heat shield. When spark plugs are replaced the boots naturally must first be removed to gain access to the plugs. When boots are removed it easily happens that the spark plug wire connector inside the boot slides out some before it comes loose from the plug. When the wires are then installed back on the new spark plugs the plugs do not go as deep in the boots as they were if the wire connector had moved. THIS HAPPENS VERY EASILY AND GREAT CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN RE-INSTALLING BOOTS ON PLUGS TO MAKE SURE THEY GO ON DEEP ENOUGH. If boots don't go on the plugs deep enough you will get excessive spark leak which will set the code and if severe enough it will result in rough running engine too. I have written about this a lot in this forum when I had to fix my new '04 Tahoe under warranty myself as the dealer would not. I learned alot and this was one of the details. I fixed my problem first by removing those heat shields to verify that the problem goes away without them and when this really fixed the problem I went and purchased a good set of racing spark plug wires that do not need the heat shields. I have not had any problems with this since I did this over a year ago. Before doing the racing wires I tried 2 sets of dealer GM wires and two sets of third party wires that all require using the heat shields. I did run without heat shields with all of them for some time and they all performed better without heat shields. As they are meant to be used with shields I then went to get wires that do not require use of them. --Arrie-- |
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Replying to: edwin10 (Mar 12, 2006 7:12 pm) |
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Replying to: parkerbobtampa (Feb 10, 2006 8:23 am) |
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I have an '03 Suburban with approximately 72,000 miles that we've had in the shop many times in the last year. Each episode is something different and costs more each time to fix than the last. The latest problem is that it will just shut down while I'm driving. Each time my speed is right at 40mph and the engine seems to be laboring and won't shift to the next gear. Then I lose all power including power steering. No lights on the dash light up except the battery light when the power dies. I coast to the side of the road and shut the key off, and it starts right back up with no warning lights or codes showing. I've taken it in for repair, but I keep getting told that they can't diagnose the problem with the computer diagnostic equipment unless the check engine light comes on or if they come out to the side of the road where I'm stranded. If anyone can suggest a fix for this, I'd be forever grateful. I am a die hard GM product buyer and love my Suburban but feel very disappointed by the quality level of the products that are being built.
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