Last post on Nov 28, 2013 at 5:49 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Suburban, GMC Suburban, SUV
#556 of 1043 PItman arm replacement
Feb 05, 2006 (12:31 pm)
I am in the process of replacing my pitman arm on a 2001 suburban. I have the end of the arm that attaches to the steering geer off, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get my pitman arm puller on the steering box end. I'm coming to the conclusion that the steering box has to come out... I just don't want to admit that the Chevy engineers were that idiotic... anyone else do this job? Pointers for getting the arm off the steering box?
Feb 08, 2006 (5:51 am)
Own a 2001 Chev Suburban 1500 with 5.3 L engine. The problem is this model suburban has two belts under the hood. One is the long serpentine belt that drives everything but the A/C. The second is the smaller A/C belt that goes from the crank pulley to the A/C compressor and has its own idler pulley / tensioner. The A/C belt area is the problem. I have an intermittent issue when under acceleration the A/C idler pulley is moved by the A/C belt to its maximum position and hits and rubs on the metal transmission cooler lines running from the transmission to the radiator. Makes a hellish grinding noise. Obliviously, there is something causing extra tension on the A/C belt. When it starts rubbing, turning off the A/C stops the issue.
I took the truck to Chev Dealer and they replaced the belt, A/C Compressor and the idler pulley / tensioner. Seem to correct the problem for about 24 hours and then it returned. Still an intermittent issue. I took the truck back to the dealership and after a long diagnostic session all pressures checked out normally and they could not duplicate the problem. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
#558 of 1043 Towing with a 2500 350 automatic?
Feb 08, 2006 (7:21 am)
I just bought a 95 Suburban, 3/4 ton, 350 auto, 63000 miles.
I plan to tow a trailer 7500 pounds total weight. I know this isn't a stump puller and I figure I'll have to take it easy.
What trans is in this vehicle?
Can I tow with it?
Are there any suspension tricks to beef up the rear suspension?
Any advise greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#559 of 1043 Re: A/C Belt & Pulley Issue [parkerbobtampa]
Feb 09, 2006 (11:46 am)
It seems that slightly bending the transmission oil cooler lines or routing them out of the way would be a much easier and logical solution than replacing the A/C compressor, tensioner pulley, and belt. is the belt tensioned correctly and the tensioner pulley locked in place properly? The tensioner pulley should not move once it is locked in place.
#560 of 1043 Re: Towing with a 2500 350 automatic? [rt1092]
Feb 09, 2006 (11:51 am)
Does the vehicle have a factory installed towing package? If no, you need to install the auto transmission oil cooler. What is the rear end gear ratio? You need at have least 3.73:1 gear ratio to tow that much weight. Do you intend to tow this trailer over a long distance or just locally? On flat or hilly terrain?
Towing a 7500 lb trailer with a 350 engine is pushing it to the limit. It can be done with proper equipment though. Transmission oil cooler, 4.10:1 gear ratio with locking rear differential(3.73:1 will also do), and preferably a transmission oil temperature gauge, which can be added.
#561 of 1043 Re: Towing with a 2500 350 automatic? [p100]
Feb 09, 2006 (6:09 pm)
Thanks for the reply. I havent picked the Suburban up yet I'll get it on Monday. I am going to put a deeper transmission pan and a temperature gauge. I dont know for sure if it came with the tow package. Just know it has a 2" receiver hitch. If it didnt I'll be putting on a big cooler.
How do I Identify the transmission Its an overdrive unit. Not sure if its a 4L60 or a 4L80. Can anybody help me here?
#562 of 1043 Re: A/C Belt & Pulley Issue [p100]
Feb 10, 2006 (7:23 am)
Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about repositioning the transmission lines but thought it might be important to figure what was causing the issue first. Both tensioners on this truck are spring loaded and normally have a small amount of travel as a normal function of their job. The A/C tensioner has to move about 4 inches (well within it allowed travel of this tensioner) to hit the transmission lines. Something is causing excess tension on the belt and the dealership & I are at a loss.
#563 of 1043 progamming my Suburban
Feb 12, 2006 (9:56 am)
I have a 2004 Suburban. LOVE IT!!!
I know there are ways to reset stuff, such as hours, oil life, chimes. I can't seem to locate any place that has those codes.
I have a 2001 Impala and it's in the radio. I can't seem to get the radio to help me here.
#564 of 1043 hvac - driver's side 2004 model
Feb 12, 2006 (12:39 pm)
First 12k miles were great! Loved the SUV for our family of 6, former minivan owners. The last 9 months and 12k have been riddled with an HVAC (driver side)problem that even the "Field Engineer" has been unable to trace the root to. Almost daily now the heat (northeast owner)randomly changes over to cold, cold, cold.(started in the summer with a/c to heat) Numerous repair attempts, actuator doors, modules, burnt wires behind dash have all been addressed, the problem continues. Also, rear audio system has intermittently crashed and there continues to be a rear whistle in the passenger side during the a/c season. Anyone else experience so many problems??? Thanks.
#565 of 1043 Re: Installation of new fuel pump in 1999 GMC Suburan [tpalen]
Feb 13, 2006 (11:25 am)
Did you ever get this figured out? I was warned in Nov that my fuel pump was going because someone heard a motorized noise - a "whrrring" - coming from the backend. Fuel pump finally went at the end of Jan. I just had it replaced... the motor noise is still there & now my tank is also off. I topped off the tank thinking it would fix it too - nope.
Any ideas? also did you still have fuel intake problems after you first replaced? Thanks