Last post on Nov 28, 2013 at 5:49 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Suburban, GMC Suburban, SUV
#206 of 1043 Re: Chevrolet Suburban: Problems & Solutions 2000 model Brakes & Fuel Pump [rshook]
Jul 13, 2005 (9:34 pm)
We have a 2002 Suburban that has had the ABS light on for a number of months. Our local dealer has indicated that it is due to trama to the front passenger wheel and that we need to replace the hub assembly for ~ $500. We know there has been nothing of the sort. We were also surprised to find out that this would not be covered under the warranty. I am wondering if you ever heard anything from your inquiry.
#207 of 1043 Re: Chevrolet Suburban: Problems & Solutions 2000 model Brakes & Fuel Pump [noillinator]
Jul 14, 2005 (3:26 am)
I am NO expert by any means but "the guys" I work with & my husband have all said that running your tank F to E is not good for the pump. And I'm one to run it F to E--got scared & stopped doing it.
#208 of 1043 Re: Chevrolet Suburban: Problems & Solutions 2000 model Brakes & Fuel Pump [noillinator]
Jul 16, 2005 (8:32 pm)
Certainly I've heard of that and it is true of ALL fuel injected vehicles. The Electric fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank and relies on the fuel itself as coolant. If you allow the fuel to drop below the top of the pump it will overheat and if done consistently WILL eventually fail. My mechanic told me that when my Dodge Daytona left me stranded with a dead pump.
#209 of 1043 Re: Electrical Issue [chevyman81]
Jul 16, 2005 (11:18 pm)
Hello there - I have the exact same problem in my 93 sub. I undo the taillights, replaced the switch and it still blows the brake and turn fuses. Did you figure out what the issue was?? This would help so much. Thank you, Don
#210 of 1043 97 Suburban Hard starting after setting awhile
Jul 17, 2005 (10:36 am)
I've got the above mentioned vehicle and in the past couple of weeks she's been acting up on me. In the mornings, or anytime the vehicle sets for a few hours it is VERY hard to get started.
You turn the key and it cranks just fine but it will not start and run. After making several attempts to start it it will finally start but does so like it does not really want to. (like it's hitting on 3-4 cylinders running wise and then finally catches up to itself and runs fine) I've changed plugs, cap, & rotor and am not sure if it is actually a electrical problem at this point but maybe a loss of fuel prime to the cylinders.(almost like a vapor lock) This is your normal 5.7 350cu. in. Vortec engine. I also had thoughts about a bad ignition coil but after it does start it runs just fine and continues to do so until it is parked again for a while.
I think I need some second opinions,... or maybe someone who might have delt with this problem and found the demon causing it could enlighten me as to the fix they used.
ANY suggestions would be welcome!!
#211 of 1043 93 chev suburban fuel problem
Jul 17, 2005 (2:25 pm)
My suburban just would not turn over last week and after checking everything found out it was not getting any gas to turn it over with. I was told that i had a bad fuel pump and purchased a new one that did not look like the original i pulled off also i tested the old pump and it will run so we narrowed it down to the fuel pump relay which was bad this has been replaced and everything put back together truck started and ran no problem parked truck over night and now it wont start again any ideas????? any one know where i can find some help on this
#212 of 1043 Re: 94 K Series Suburban stalling [gregonline]
Jul 18, 2005 (2:12 pm)
have the engine coolant tempature sensor checked. This can be done if you have the manual and know how to measure voltage, etc... but otherwise best to have a mech put it up on the computer.
the other issue is that with TBI it could be the TBI itself or the idle position sensor.
In any case, a shop with diagnostic computer can do the checks.
94 Suburban Columbus MT 59019
#213 of 1043 2001 AC/Heat Problem - Maybe Control Unit?
Jul 20, 2005 (12:25 pm)
I have the control unit with the rear defroster included, just an FYI. I noticed if I use the AC and start out with the temperature knob on the coldest setting and then turn the temperature knob to "warmer" after the cab has cooled down, I cannot get the air temperature to blow any cooler after that by turning the knob back to a cooler setting. I can turn the temperature knob all the way to the coldest setting but the air doesn't get colder, the air just stays the same temperature. If I turn the temperature knob to any warmer setting, the air temperature will get warmer but it will never get any cooler after that and you're "stuck" with that setting, unless you turn the knob to an even hotter setting (which really sucks in summer in Texas). Even after you turn the Suburban off, it's still at that same temperature when you start it back up later, even after you wait a long time. I found that if you turn the temperature knob all the way to the hottest setting and back to the coldest, then turn the Suburban off for a few minutes, this seems to reset everything and then I can get cold air again.
Does this sound like a bad control unit? I've heard that the early ones had "squirrelly" problems but I'm not sure that this is one of them. Thanks. Lewis
#214 of 1043 Re: 93 chev suburban fuel problem [j2wice]
Jul 21, 2005 (5:36 pm)
We have a 95 k2500 with the same problem. My husband has replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump switch, he doesn't know it yet (til tonight) but our suburban still won't start everytime. He was told to check the oil sending unit, which he has not. Today I did get it to start but I had no power windows, no a/c, radio or clock but I could lock and unlock the doors. The strange thing is the ABS brake light stayed on during this 15 minute trip home. Our whole brake system, rotors, etc. were all just redone this spring. When I got home and started it again it was fine, power a/c and all. Then after trying it again, it would not always start up and the idiot engine light came on. (It's 115 degrees in AZ and the windows were only cracked, it was really hot inside!) If you get any helpful info. let us know... and we'll do the same. I going to bug him again to just bring it to the dealer. I hope someone has some helpful info.
#215 of 1043 Re: 93 chev suburban fuel problem [j2wice]
Jul 22, 2005 (1:06 pm)
Well, sounds like you don't want to take it to a repair shop. I don't blame after what kind of service I have gotten from my Chevy dealer shop...
If you have a fuel pump / flow problem an easy thing to do is to measure fuel line pressure by the engine. For this you need to buy a fuel pressure gauge (one that has the purge valve with drain hose attached) and measure the fuel pressure as you crank the engine. If pressure does not come up then you are not getting fuel from the pump. You said you replaced the pump already so I wouldn't think this is the issue.
The second thing the engine needs to run is a spark. It is not possible to see the spark when you crank the engine other than you need to get an extra spark plug (or spark tester) and hook it up with a spark plug wire. If you have spark in one of the cylinders you then probably have it in all of them. Of course you could have a 'cold' cylinder but as I understand it doesn't even try to start you might not have spark at all. If spark is missing check the coil and distributor (I assume '93 model still has these).
If you have spark then you need to check that your injectors work. With fuel pressure and spark present the thing left to check is that the fuel can enter inside the cylinder for the spark to ignite. I don't know how to check for injector voltage. For that you might need to take it to a dealer. And if the injectors don't 'fire' you could need a new computer in your vehicle.
All of your trouble could also be cause by a simple grounding problem. Make sure your engine and chassis grounds are good.