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Chevy Suburban

1035 messages,  Last post on Oct 01, 2012 at 6:10 AM

You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Suburban, GMC Suburban, SUV

Messages Page 18 of 105

#163 of 1035 Re: Chevrolet Suburban: Problems & Solutions 2000 model Brakes & Fuel Pump by fjm

Jun 12, 2005 (6:44 pm)

Replying to: rshook (Jun 08, 2005 3:58 pm)
JUst got the bad news on Friday that ABS Module need to be replaced on my 2000 Suburban (70K) along with a related piston? Total price $1895. Needed because a ground fault is coming from module. Previous fix, which did not work, was replacement of a bolt, washer and nut that I believe the mechanic thought was causing the fault as indicated by the ABS and Brake dash light coming on. The replacement of this bolt might fix your problem. It is worth asking. I will be watching for other replys. I have a e-mail out to repair facility to see if they can fix the module and replace myself. good luck.

#164 of 1035 Re: Need Tires [96suburban] by abbottchapel

Jun 13, 2005 (6:05 am)

Replying to: 96suburban (Jun 01, 2005 7:36 pm)
I have a 94 Suburban and have had lots of luck with Michelins MN series. I have 265/75/16's mounted and I'm getting about 70,000 miles on them. Excellent tires. There about $170per but considering the mileage I'm getting...worth every penny! Good luck.

#165 of 1035 '01 Suburban Idle speed by dmark1

Jun 13, 2005 (4:21 pm)

At times my 01 Suburban has really low idle speed. It is most noticeable when the AC is on. It drops to about 350 rpm and the AC does not work properly nor does the alternator put out well at such a low rpm. Sometimes it has an oscillation to the idle. Up, down, up, down between 350 and 500 rpm. If I hold the pedal down a little and hold about 500 rpm it all works fine. Any ideas as to a solution ?

#166 of 1035 Need Help Learning to Drive by winters

Jun 13, 2005 (6:03 pm)

2005 Z71-4WD is my 5th Suburban. Last one was 5.7 '96 w/ 241,000 miles. Frequently drive in eastern mountains. 2005 does not hold back in 3rd or 2nd - must ride brakes to keep it from gaining too much speed for the turns. On cruise control on interstate will often jump from 1800 to 4500 rpm to maintain set speed - usually just at the beginning of a grade after coming down a slight incline. Even when in 3rd and running at 2800 it will still jump to 4500. This can't be good for the engine, and I know it is not good for economy. What do I do? Are aftermarket chips an answer?

#167 of 1035 Re: '99 Suburban fuel pump died [busymom3] by gaustin

Jun 13, 2005 (10:18 pm)

Replying to: busymom3 (May 24, 2005 6:34 pm)
I just went through this problem with our 99 Tahoe. Our Tahoe had 110,000 miles on it. Most likely the Suburban won't start and I'll give you the cheapest easiest fixes first, chances are it is one of 3 things, a bad fuel pump relay: if it is, it costs about $15 and is located in the "under the hood" fuse box. Look under the fuse box lid for location of the relay. #2 The oil pump pressure switch/sending unit: you can determine this by unplugging the wire connector to the sending unit and jumping the 2 end terminals together it is a 3 wire connector. If the fuel pump starts which is identified by a hum from the tank then it is most likely the oil press/sending unit.#3 The wire connector to the fuel pump itself could also be bad, but this is difficult too because you have to drop the fuel tank to get to it also. I know the oil pressure switch/sending unit sounds unrelated but the wiring circuit to the fuel pump has a branch that is routed through the oil sending unit and it can cause the pump not to operate if it goes bad. The oil sending unit (OSU) is in a difficult location in the back of the engine under the distributor and it takes a deep socket to remove. The fuel pump, if it is actually bad, is a big job especially if you have a full tank of gas. It is usually best to remove the gas before trying to drop the fuel tank. Most tanks nowadays are difficult to get a siphon hose into. The fuel pump I bought cost $180 from an auto parts store and figure 2 or 3 hours of labor just depends on how good/quick they are. There are a few tricks to dropping the tank and there are some fuel line connector tools required but they are not expensive. If you do change the pump, you'll also need to change the fuel filter. After everything I said earlier, you may want to check that the fuel filter is not plugged up...it is a possibility, but I have never seen a plugged up fuel filter. I, of course, buy my gas at reputable places, but if you don't I guess it's reasonable to look at in addition to what I told you. Good Luck Hope this helps!

#168 of 1035 Re: Passenger Mirror [sslandy] by jimmyo

Jun 14, 2005 (11:54 am)

Replying to: sslandy (Mar 21, 2005 1:44 pm)
I have the same problem and I know what it is (the retaining ring which sits on a spring inside the morror has popped off). The problem is I don't know how to fix it. Did you get any replys to your message post? The dealer wants to replace the whole mirror assembly for a couple hundred bucks.
 
Thanks.
 
Jim

#169 of 1035 Re: '90 Suburban parts: [muffterry] by trey915

Jun 15, 2005 (9:08 am)

Replying to: muffterry (Apr 07, 2005 1:30 pm)
I know it has been over 2 months since you posted, but I figured I would let you know that your Chev dealer can pull up the expanded views and show you the parts so you can cross reference them. It is a little inconvenient because you have to actually go there, but they can also provide a print-out of the view so you will have them. Hope this helps.

#170 of 1035 can't get security to work by e99

Jun 15, 2005 (9:59 am)

I have 99 burb with factory security system and when using keyless remote to kick in security nothing happens. It locks doors and will sound horn but never see the security flash or if open door no alarm. Am I missing something dealer suggest new keys did that no change. Now they suggest ingition switch replacement does that sound right. Any ideas would be helpful

#171 of 1035 Re: Passenger Mirror [jimmyo] by sslandy

Feb 04, 2005 (7:54 pm)

Replying to: jimmyo (Jun 14, 2005 11:54 am)
I didn't get a reply about the mirror. For now, I have a zip tie holding it on. If I ever get a chance to leave it at the dealer, I'm going to try to get them to replace it under the bumper-to-bumper extended warranty. It shouldn't have broke, it is supposed to fold in, not snap off. When I called the parts department just to see, they quoted me over the phone $183 for the mirror and $105 to put it on. I didn't mention a warranty or anything.. Please post if you get a way to fix it. It is a pain - can't go through the car wash and the pollen is killing me.

#172 of 1035 Re: keyless entry remote programming [brcoda11] by ace918

Jun 15, 2005 (7:24 pm)

Replying to: brcoda11 (Jun 09, 2005 9:38 pm)
These are the instructions I received when I purchased my aftermarket remote, haven't had a chance typo test it yet.
 
This requires a test light with an alligator clip lead on one end and a probe tip on the other end.
 
1. locate the diaganostic plug located under drivers dash, usually a 12 pin black female plug.
 
2. find a good ground, clip the test light to the ground. test the light by touching the tip of the light to 12v, the light should light.
 
3. touch the tip of the light to the top far right pin of the plug, the power locks should jump ( cycle up and down). If the locks fail to cycle touch the the bottom right pin. the light should light as the locks cycle.
 
3. as soon as the locks cycle, keep the light pressed to the pin and press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time on the first (#1) remote until the locks cycle, may take 5 - 20 seconds. keeping the light connected, now take the # 2 remote and press the lock and unlock buttons at the same time till the locks cycle.
 
4. remove the test light
 
you should not have to re program the original remotes,but if you do just follow the above instructions and repeat step 3 once for the old and once for the new remotes.

Messages Page 18 of 105

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