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Coolant Confusion - READ ONLY

10 messages,  Last post on Jan 04, 2005 at 8:10 PM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Engine, Truck


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#1 of 10
Coolant Confusion by edwardn1
Dec 02, 2004 (10:41 am)
With all of the new coolants out there who really knows what is what. Even the Walmart house brand appears to be a Dex-cool. My 99 Ford Ranger, 3.0 FFV owners manual says not to use dexcool or orange coolant, yet the walmart house brand and the "new" Prestone appear to be dexcool. Question is, what exactly is the current Walmart house brand (blue bottle, 1 gallon) coolant? Is it a conventional? Is it a dexcool type? Anybody really know? Thanks in advance.
#2 of 10
Is the plastic hex nut ... by edwardn1
Dec 03, 2004 (11:08 am)
...that Ford puts on the Ranger radiator prone to break if loosened to do a partial radiator drain? Am I better off loosening the bottom radiator hose? As both the heater hoses and top and bottom radiator hoses have lines coming out of them so I can't use bulk hose to replace them, I really don't wish to disturb them either. Ideas? This is a white plastic (nylon) drain plug, I've seen the black plastic ones break off in the past when trying to loosen them.
#3 of 10
Re: Coolant Confusion [edwardn1] by goodtroubleiii
Dec 06, 2004 (11:47 pm)

Replying to: edwardn1 (Dec 02, 2004 10:41 am)

I work at Advance Auto Parts in Bloomington. I have seen a new type of coolant come onto the market, that is for use with both dex-cool (orange), and traditional ethylene glycol (green). I believe the new stuff is a yellow-ish color. It will work fine when mixed with either coolant. They are beginning to phase out the two different types of coolant.
 
Regardless of what they are, you can do a complete coolant system back flush, and then put whatever you want in the system, just make sure that all the old coolant is out of it.
#4 of 10
Re: Is the plastic hex nut ... [edwardn1] by goodtroubleiii
Dec 06, 2004 (11:49 pm)

Replying to: edwardn1 (Dec 03, 2004 11:08 am)

I haven't heard of the white plastic ones having any problems, I have done plenty of drains, and flushes with all kinds of drain plugs, and have never broke one, but, if you do end up breaking it, they sell replacements at most auto parts stores.
#5 of 10
Dexcool by 3745
Dec 07, 2004 (5:50 am)
Read this,
 
http://www.penray.com/bulletins/dexcool.htm
#6 of 10
Everything becoming dexcool... by edwardn1
Dec 21, 2004 (12:09 pm)
...Has anyone noticed that Dexcool, Prestone "use with any color" and Walmart coolant in the BLUE jug are EXACTLY THE SAME? Read the content labels. Keep in mind that Ford, D-C, Toyota and Honda have all said that they did not want dexcool in their engines.
#7 of 10
Mileage by corvette
Dec 30, 2004 (2:59 pm)
Coolant is not subject to the same sort of stressors that oil is. Why do manufacturers recommend replacement based on time and mileage? It seems to me that going on time alone (e.g., 5 years), not mileage, would be more appropriate. I don't think the coolant in a car that drives 60k in 2 years is that different from one that drives 20k in 2 years. Any thoughts?
#8 of 10
Re: Mileage [corvette] by swschrad
Dec 30, 2004 (10:48 pm)

Replying to: corvette (Dec 30, 2004 2:59 pm)

the glycol is fairly stable, it's the corrosion inhibitor package that causes all the trouble. in the case of "standard" stuff, it's used up in two years at best, and then electrolytic action starts to break up the glycol and cause rust to boot. in the case of "dexcool" organic inhibitor, although it is more stable, it doesn't like air when it's hot, forming nasty orange cementlike crud.
 
a flush and refill every two years should help you avoid both issues, no matter what compound you are using.
#9 of 10
Is Peak Global extended life better... by edwardn1
Dec 30, 2004 (11:33 pm)
...to use in my 99 3.0L Ranger for a partial change or should I stick with conventional green. I simply drain the rad and install pre mix, that way I don't disturb any hoses.
#10 of 10
edwardn1, you're overdue for a power flush by swschrad
Jan 04, 2005 (8:10 pm)
of the cooling system. should be done every couple years, whether or not it's recommended on a dexcool vehicle. a "drain what you can find" procedure leaves half the nasty old slop in the engine block and heater system, so you're at best only protected to 10 or 20 below, and likely not that. in glendale, that's not as important, unless you go up to tahoe to ski. but your boilover protection is also down to 230 or so instead of 255 degrees, and that does count in your neck of the woods. you also don't get rid of any of the rust, scale, and other glop when you don't flush it out.
 
have it profesionally flushed and refilled with the ford-approved stuff, and you'll be fine.

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