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Chevrolet Cobalt, Coupe, Sedan
#72 of 166 Looking for advice before I go to the dealership
Feb 18, 2007 (9:16 pm)
I am going to be trading in my truck. Another dealer has already offered me a trade in value of 12,500. Assuming I get the same at a Chevy dealership what should be my target price for a 2007 Cobalt LT Coupe, or a 2007 LS Coupe (If I get the LS I would probably add a feature or two). Automatic btw. I really would like to make it out of the dealership paying less than $2000 on top of my 12,500 trade in value, OTD. I've never had this high of a trade in value before...is this more or less leverage for me? Thanks.
#73 of 166 Looking for advice before I ,,,,
Feb 19, 2007 (11:08 am)
If I were you, I would go to several dealers, negotiate a rock bottom price with no trade-in. Then get your trade into the picture.
Early in Novewmber, I went to a Vokswagen dealer to negotiate a price for a Volks Rabbit with my 2001 Aztek as the trade. The offer was $3,000.
When I was negotiating the price of my Cobalt SS supercharged in the last week of January, David Chevy Pontiac in Nigara Falls, NY offerd me $6,500 for the same car the Volks people want for 3,000 bucks.
However, I decided to keep the Aztek, because the car has served me very well in foul and lousy winter weather here in the Buffalo region.
#74 of 166 Re: Looking for advice before I ,,,, [exzur2071]
Feb 20, 2007 (2:22 am)
EXZUR2071, If you're just gonna let that car sit there most of the time....loan it to me for a while & I'll break it in for ya!
#75 of 166 Break in advice.
Feb 21, 2007 (11:35 am)
The weather has started to get better now. Smogdung, could you please tell me the proper way of breaking in a new car.
#76 of 166 Re: Break in advice. [exzur2071]
Feb 21, 2007 (3:32 pm)
It's best to drive conservatively for the first few hundred miles, and to avoid running the engine at constant speeds for extended periods. Don't jump on the Interstate and set the cruise control on 65 for the next 300 miles, and don't run any drag races until the engine and trans are properly broken in. I usually try to change the oil and filter at between 800 and 1000 miles, then just drive normally from there.
I've been doing it this way for over 30 years, and haven't had one let me down yet...
#77 of 166 Break in advice. [exzur2071]
Mar 10, 2007 (4:18 pm)
grosloup, I am following your advice. So far the car is doing pretty good. Is it not too early to change the oil and filter between 800 and 1000 miles?
#78 of 166 Re: Break in advice. [exzur2071]
Mar 11, 2007 (7:43 am)
Depending on your driving. Highway or city? Lots of city driving is worst on a break-in oil (or any oil as a matter of fact). I once went up to 2000 milles before my first oil change and everything went fine. What happens is that your engine is new, every bits and pieces got to get oiled and running good. If you could see all the small metal fragments in your break-in oil, you'd be surprised. All that metal friction that's going on in your motor cleans the debris off all metal parts. It's the same as if the oil was rinsing our motor. I once screened my break-in oil using a paper towel and could see small and short (thin as hair) pieces of metal. Newer models are not as worst as in the 70' and 80's.
#79 of 166 my new cobalt
Mar 28, 2007 (3:47 pm)
Bought a black 2007 Cobalt LS Sedan, with just auto transmission and the body side moldings as options on it.
Sticker was $14700. Dealer came down to $14100 on it. Minus roughly $2100 on my original GM card. Minus the $1000 Chevy spring cashback savings here in NJ. Minus $500 more GM cash back.
With tax/title/registration, the price out the door was $11554.
#80 of 166 Re: GM pricing?? [homerkc]
Apr 04, 2007 (8:18 am)
Is GM really the one that needs to wake up? The new GM warranty 5 yrs/100,000 miles is the best warranty in the industry. The Hyundai 10 year powertrain warranty is only good for the original buyer or immediate family member. It is not transferable to anyone else so a Hyundai owner needs to keep it 10 years for the warranty to stay in effect. This was part of the marketing Hyundai figured would work. Leave out the fine print details because who keeps a car that long any ways they figured, thus after they sell it it is no longer their responsibility. A lot of people think the Suzuki 7 year warranty is the best also.
Corolla better MPG you say. Well in general it may very well be, especially on paper. In July's 2006 Car & Driver they tested a bunch of compacts including the Cobalt and Corolla and the Cobalts average mpg was like 28.3 mpg edging the Corolla's 28.1 mpg average. So it just goes to show that the mpg figures are similar and in this case favors the Cobalt.
#81 of 166 Re: What I paid [jaltenbach]
Apr 20, 2007 (11:41 am)
I also have the GM mastrcard but thought that they limited the amount of GM earnings you could receive to $1000 on the Cobalt. If I'm wrong and I can redeem all of my GM earnings - please let me know as I plan on buying a new car in the next week or so.