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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Chevrolet Cobalt Prices Paid and Buying Experience
157 messages, Last post on Jul 28, 2009 at 12:59 PM
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Replying to: tcalof (Nov 02, 2008 7:56 am) I know some people advocate changing oil a little early since the manufacturer is trying to be a good corporate citizen by extending the change interval. I change early myself, but still go by the computer. Just do it when the computer indicates 25% life remaining. BTW, the manual requires at least yearly changes if you are a very infrequent driver. |
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Replying to: grosloup (Nov 02, 2008 4:55 am) Numerous people on the Hyundai forum (with 100k powertrain and 60k bumper to bumper std. ) have paid $1000 or more for a 120k AFTERMARKET warranty (you fill in the paperwork and hope to be reimbursed from ACME co.) this is downright stupid. The fact they can work it into the financing for $20/mo makes it more saleable. I purchased numerous cars in the 80's and early 90's with just 12mo bumper to bumper. Unbelieveable this was the standard for 20 (50?) years before. Reliability was also poor compared to now. (remember the good ol days?) For cars (nissan, honda,ford etc) with 3/36 bb and 5/60k powertrain standard a bumper to bumper 8yr /120kmi bb extension for a cheap (under 20k) sedan should be around $800. For more expensive vehicles loaded with electric sliding doors, 4wd, navi, etc we're talking about $1200. For the Chevy one would expect about $500 or so. Much more than this and you should pass. Many people get taken for $2000 or more for these in the dealer's finance office. Honda's warranty used to be offered online by several dealerships but I think they terminated the practice. I believe Honda's extended warranty is available until the 36k mile mark for $100 more than around time of purchase (under 6kmiles). Others may be similar. Warranties can be shopped just as cars can by getting 10 or so dealers to compete end of month.(sales quotas). 20 or more bids could be solicited. Just email for the best price from the dealership and they may give you the finance officers email.(or just forward it to him) Good luck --jjf Did you purchase a "extended warranty" when you bought your car. Is it realy worth it or it's more like a last minute gamble? I don't know what to do
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Replying to: jfritsch (Nov 06, 2008 7:43 am) |
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| I drove out in an LT1 coupe for a little over 17k tags, title and tax. The car listed for around $18,600 as I recall. I bought it from Bender Chevrolet in Clovis NM. It is our local Cadillac/Chevrolet dealer and I service my 03 Cadillac DeVille there. Nice people. This was during the employee price sale. I understand that the present rebates are about as good. I probably should have ordered one. I would not have bothered with the remote start or the spoiler but would have ordered the Pioneer stereo. Bender ordered a group of 09 LT1s with the spoiler, floor mats, side moldings,and leather steering wheel with cruise, automatic, 2.2 engine, remote start,and Bluetooth. . Mine is Victory Red with the Ebony interior. . I like the XM radio and will subscribe. I have no interest in On Star. I had it for 5 years on the Cadillac and never pushed the button. I don't like a bunch of strangers knowing where my car is and how to open it. I just use it in town anyway and carry a cell phone. | |
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Ordered in November, picked up last Saturday. Silver Moss Metallic, added the MyLink Package (one year directions/connections OnStar, 1 year XM, Cruise, Bluetooth, Leather steering wheel and shifter, 4 wheel ABS, 16" Aluminum wheels) auto tranny and spare tire and dealer added stripe. I added Weathertech floor liners at $80. List $19,250, with $1500 rebate, paid $17,041 cash. Purchased at Hanks Chevy in Ozark, MO. Known the owner and family(taught sons who now run the dealership) for over 20 years. Easy to work with, and they threw in a couple of basketball tickets in our University's new arena. All in all a good experience.
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Replying to: Amunhotep (Dec 17, 2008 8:05 pm) |
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sticker on this car was i think $16,500 I paid $11,700 after a $2000 rebate. not really sure if this is a good price or not since this is my first car and I dont think i did a great job bargaining. after $2000 in taxes, title, license, etc, and $1600 for an extended gm warranty (probably a poor choice on my part) i financed about$15,300 at 8.9% apr. I hope to refinance in another year after i have built up my credit. feedback? how did i do?
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Replying to: iluvnanny (Jan 05, 2009 5:24 pm) To preserve the warranty, you should have the VERY minimal services required by the owner's manual performed and documented. All this means is, basically, during the first 100,000 miles, an oil and filter change according to the car's computer (usually between 5,000 and 10,000 miles) and a tire rotation and inspection every other oil change, plus an air filter change every 30,000 miles. Costs for the oil change should be about $40 at the dealer (or much less with coupons from the dealer, they will put you on their mailing list) and $100 for oil change plus tire rotation plus inspection. You should NOT be paying for "minor and major service" as recommended by the dealer at old-fashioned 7,500, 15,000 and 30,000 mile intervals - those $150-$300 services are mostly "snake oil" designed to make you feel like a good car owner. The only upgrades over the owner's manual services MIGHT be: 1. Oil changes at the 50% remaining oil life point, instead of running the oil out the full indicated life, using the dealer provided oil OR going to the 5% remaining life point, BUT substituting full synthetic oil (Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum are my favorites) for conventional oil at your oil changes - just carry in a jug purchased at Walmart. 2. Brake fluid flush and change for about $120 every 30,000 miles or 3 years or brake pad replacement, whichever comes first. Brake fluid is the most neglected fluid change in cars, because there isn't a quick and easy machine that will automate the process, like on transmission fluid and radiator coolant changes. But brake fluid is actually the fluid MOST SUSCEPTIBLE to contamination and hence degradation in performance due to absorbing moisture from the air, which lowers its boil point and increases the risk of brake failure due to brake fluid "boiling" at the overheated caliper when driven in, say, mountain conditions. 3. Auto transmission fluid changes for about $100 every 30,000 miles, time doesn't matter. 4. Coolant changes at the first 50,000 miles then 30,000 miles after that. Yeah, I know the owner's manual claims both the transmission fluid and coolant are long life items, but I would rather err on the side of caution since these fluid changes are cheap and easily done. DO YOUR SERVICES AT THE DEALER. Do your repairs at a good independent shop that works on Chevy's. I know this sounds like the reverse of normal, but dealers have all the required washers, filters, fluids, while oil change shops and other independents often use "universal" fluids, or take other shortcuts, or strip drain pan bolts. On the other hand, many dealers send out (subcontract) their actual repairs (as opposed to high profit maintenance services) to independent garages anyway. Not always, but often. Independents can often do timing belt replacements (not required on our Cobalts, just an example) as well as the dealer but much cheaper. And dealer receipts for warranty required services (the oil changes, tire rotations, and inspections) can really help if something major goes wrong. Supposedly Toyota refused to accept some third party oil change receipts during their sludge fiasco on grounds they weren't "real." Good luck with your Cobalt, it will take good care of you if you take good care of it! |
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Replying to: iluvnanny (Jan 05, 2009 5:24 pm) |
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Just paid $6,850 (after tax, dealer fee) for a 2006 Cobalt LS Sedan in Victory Red with 51k miles. Previous owner was obviously a heavy smoker and, as you probably know, the car doesn't have any features to speak of ... but I don't care about those things. My husband in particular is actually very enthusiastic about the crank windows. Power windows in his old car stopped working long ago, and are $$$ to fix. I was originally looking for a newer Cobalt or a Malibu, but couldn't resist this opportunity to save money. I admit, I am a little nervous to see how the reliability factor will pan out. I get the impression the Cobalt has been significantly improved each time. Only thing concerning me thus far is that the trunk is suddenly hard to physically open, like the key doesn't pop it or something. I've started using the trunk release instead. Oh, and the fact that I'm not sure if it has the absorbing plastic that is supposed to be put in as an answer to lack of side airbags (recall). It sure doesn't look like it, and it's not listed on the carfax, but then, I don't know if it would be. I'm going to have to take it to a Chevy dealer for the recall plastic.
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