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Wagons Subaru Crew Subaru B9 Tribeca Subaru B9 Tribeca (B9X)
8358 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 12:42 PM
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Replying to: bman33 (Jan 23, 2006 5:13 pm) I agree that you can balance a wheel/tire to be lug centric, but the tolerances of lugs from machine to car, or car to car, or hub to hub on the same car still come into play. There are also tolerances with the hub-wheel alignment, of course, but a well machined hub/wheel combo will always offer better alignment than the same tolerances on a 5-lug setup. It's a physical reality of mechanical parts -- the more pins and holes you have to line up, the harder it is to attain "absolute" positioning with a fixed tolerance. All it means in the end is that lug-centric wheels would require tighter tolerances and better balancing than a hub-centric wheel, to get the same alignment. And they would also need to be installed more carefully -- the wheel lugs have to be torqued while the vehicle is still jacked up and there is no weight on the lugs, since there is no center hub support to take the load. As long as I have been buying cars, the factory wheels, even when they have been exotic racing wheels that are part of a limited production vehicle, have always been hub-centric. So obviously the manufacturers are trying to avoid the hassles that come with lug-centric mounts. I also think it's interesting that all the wheels I have bought from the TireRack have been hub-centric, either with the proper bore or through the use of centering rings. They have some good articles about this on their website. Craig
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Replying to: c_hunter (Jan 24, 2006 9:40 am) also ow else would you install tires if its not jacked up. I use a floor jack and losen the lug nuts first then jack the car up. remove tire, spray the part where the wheel and car meet with WD-40 along with a light spray on the lug nut itself on the threads and the base area. then hand tighten in a cross pattern. as I lightly jog the wheel to make sure its sitting in the center of the tapered lug nuts. when I cant tighten anymore with holding the wheel from spinning. I lower until wheel touches ground lightly and continue tightening. then drop down rest of way and finish tightening. then after 2 mile drive retighten. thats it  the wheels I installed had no performance (ride/handling) issues at all with the 20 inch wheels. I cant say that its not affecting the bearings being offset by .5 inches more but I do know the handling is much much much improved over the OEM tires. 
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Replying to: mayberryguy (Jan 23, 2006 5:52 pm) Also, everytime I come out to the Tribeca at night, be it in our driveway or in a prking lot, and unlock it using the remote, I break out into a huge grin when those puddle lights come on. I love this car (SUV, truck, crossover....???)!!! |
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Replying to: mayberryguy (Jan 23, 2006 5:52 pm) -juice |
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Replying to: cluelesspa (Jan 24, 2006 10:14 am) http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=91 It might be good to get a professional opinion on lubricating the threads on your lugs -- I know many mechanics advise strongly against it. For one thing, it can trick your torque wrench and you may not get a proper setting. If tightening by hand, it just makes it that much easier to over-torque (by a lot). If there's one place on the car where I'd want natural friction, it would be on those lugs. I do think it's OK to hit the hubs with WD-40 though. |
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Replying to: jandj94 (Jan 23, 2006 11:08 pm) |
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Replying to: subienewbie2 (Jan 24, 2006 5:11 pm) |
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Replying to: jandj94 (Jan 24, 2006 8:45 pm) 
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Replying to: pschreck (Jan 25, 2006 3:41 am) -Brian
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| cool so you can get both subs installed | |
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