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Porsche 911

2048 messages,  Last post on Aug 31, 2009 at 9:15 AM

You are in the Porsche 911 Forum. Your Host is claires

What is this discussion about? Porsche 911, Porsche Carrera GT, Coupe, Convertible


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#1856 of 2048
Re: 3M CLEAR BRA [jayzzz] by buylow
May 02, 2008 (6:16 am)
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Replying to: jayzzz (May 01, 2008 8:16 am)

Check it out - www.theclearbra.com. According to the site, the clear bra is made of urethane, is porus and will yellow over time. They say it is important to protect it with a product called Plexus, a plastic cleaner, protectant and polish - www.plexusdirect.com.
#1857 of 2048
Re: Porsche Etiquette [upnorth2] by bmlexus
May 04, 2008 (4:41 pm)
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Replying to: upnorth2 (Apr 29, 2008 4:29 pm)

We dont even look at Japanese wannabes although we might glance at other fine German machines.
 
LOL sounds like you hate japanese cars
#1858 of 2048
911 Engines and Advice for 1st time buyer by porsche4me2
May 04, 2008 (6:48 pm)
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I'm looking at 2004-2006 Porsche 911 Cabs and my mechanic warned me that there have been several issues with the water cooled engines in the 996s (1999-2003). Has anyone else heard of those issues? Have they been addressed in the 2004 (and newer) models? He thinks the the '95-98's have excellent engines but ideally I'd like the newer body style. This is my first Porsche purchase and any advice is appreciated. I think getting an extended warranty would be a good call but again I'm looking for any advice you experts can give. Thanks for sharing...
#1859 of 2048
996 Models by nyccarguy
May 05, 2008 (5:17 pm)
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I believe what your mechanic is talking about is that certain 996 models developed a leak in the Rear Main Seal (correct me if I'm wrong here guys). The main cause of this is cars that didn't adhere to Porsche's strict break-in procedures or cars that were used for short trips that didn't allow the engine to fully warm up before shutting down. This would be a problem to look for in low mileage cars that are "only driven to the golf course on weekends" Porsches.
 
Definitely have your mechanic (hopefully he's knowledgeable about Porsches) look at any car you're going to buy.
#1860 of 2048
Re: 996 Models [nyccarguy] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 06, 2008 (7:40 am)
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Replying to: nyccarguy (May 05, 2008 5:17 pm)

They have an improved seal. It's really more of a design defect (dare I blaspheme?) due to crankshaft design and engine case design, but usually is fixable and it doesn't happen all that often. And if it shows up, it's early in the car's life and mileage. If the new seal doesn't fix it, then you need a new engine or you live with the leak. About $13,000 + labor.
 
visiting host
#1861 of 2048
Re: 911 Engines and Advice for 1st time buyer [porsche4me2] by habitat1
May 06, 2008 (4:41 pm)
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Replying to: porsche4me2 (May 04, 2008 6:48 pm)

I'm looking at 2004-2006 Porsche 911 Cabs and my mechanic warned me that there have been several issues with the water cooled engines in the 996s (1999-2003).
 
First, you should be aware that 2004 was the last year of the 996 design, not 2003. Supposedly, Porsche revised the rear main seal / crankcase design for the 997 model (2005+) but there have still been a few isolated reports of leaks.
 
According to my dealer (former factory engineer) nyccarguy is correct in that improper break in was often, but not always, the culpret relative to cars that developed RMS leaks. Any used 911 purchase should involve a pre-purchase full mechanical inspection.
 
The previous air cooled model (993) is considered by many enthusaists a classic, and it is often worth more than a newer, lower mileage 996 in the used car market. The 996 is considered a bit of a hiccup in the design evolution, with the "fried egg" headlights and more streamlined (less aggressive) looking rear end. The downside to the 993's is that they will be 9+ years old, require more maintenance, and I don't think you can get an extended warranty, The 997 model was designed to be a low maintenance car, with the first regular service at 20k miles or 2 years. I had my oil changed at 10k miles out of anxiety, but was told it wasn't necessary by two factory reps.
#1862 of 2048
Re: 911 Engines and Advice for 1st time buyer [porsche4me2] by buylow
May 06, 2008 (10:04 pm)
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Replying to: porsche4me2 (May 04, 2008 6:48 pm)

I just bought a 2006 911 coup with 13000 miles, certified pre-owned, and I'm love'n it. Can't wait to get home to drive it, and take the long way home when I'm in it. I read that the 997's were 80% redesigned - new and improved. I've heard that a certified porsche can't even have a door panel painted or it would not qualify. If you're a newbie, like me, I think a 997, certified pre-owned from a prosche dealer with the extended warranty and wheel and tire protection, is the only way to go.
#1863 of 2048
Porsche active suspension management by buylow
May 06, 2008 (10:29 pm)
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With pasm in normal mode, is the ride on a bumpy road more comfortable than in a base 911 (without pasm as an option)? I read a thread somewhere on this forum with conflicting answers. Some said pasm in normal is just like the ride of a base 911. Some said it was different. What is the real deal? I don't think I could ever part with my 2006 911, but if I did, would there be a benefit of getting pasm for people like me who do not go to the race track?
#1864 of 2048
Re: Porsche active suspension management [buylow] by habitat1
May 07, 2008 (2:18 am)
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Replying to: buylow (May 06, 2008 10:29 pm)

With pasm in normal mode, is the ride on a bumpy road more comfortable than in a base 911 (without pasm as an option)?
 
From my experience, the PASM option set to "normal" results in a slightly less harsh, more comfortable ride than a base 911 with no PASM. The difference is not huge if the base 911 has 18" wheels, but becomes more noticable if it has the optional 19" wheels. Also, because PASM lowers the ride height and provides some other suspension tweaks, the handling/cornering on the S models with PASM set to normal mode still seems a bit better than the non-PASM base model. When you switch the PASM to "sport", handling is noticably firmer with zero body sway, but the comfort level over rough roads goes down noticably. When I activate my sport chrono/sport exhaust button, the PASM automatically toggles to sport and, unless I'm on very smooth roads, I usually toggle it back to normal.
 
PASM is an expensive option to add to a base 911 and, IMO, is one of the reasons prospective buyers might want to consider and S model, especially if they are also going to add 19" wheels and xenon lights. By that point, you are only paying about $5,500 for the engine upgrade and a couple of other upgrades not available on the base car.
#1865 of 2048
Re: 911 Engines and Advice for 1st time buyer [buylow] by habitat1
May 07, 2008 (2:50 am)
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Replying to: buylow (May 06, 2008 10:04 pm)

If you're a newbie, like me, I think a 997, certified pre-owned from a prosche dealer with the extended warranty and wheel and tire protection, is the only way to go.
 
There are two schools of thought. Yes, the Porsche CPO program has an extended warranty and, one would hope, the dealer will stand behind the car. It's a good program.
 
However, also depending upon the dealer, CPO prices can be grossly inflated. I've seen 1 year old CPO cars being attempted to be sold for darn near what a savvy buyer could get a new car for. My dealer readily admits that they make 2-3 times the mark-up on a used CPO trade than they do on a new car. Also, as has been pointed out, proper break in is absolutely critical for high performance sports cars in general, the 911 in particular. Looking eye to eye with a private owner and asking them what they did regarding break in and how they drove the car would be one way to assess this. Lastly, there are good independent extended warranties available - even a Porsche customer service rep told me that some privately available extended warranties cover certain "cosmetic" items that the CPO warranty does not.
 
My own experience opened my eyes to the other side of CPO. When my dealer asked me in March if I was interested in trading for a 2008, the trade in value they placed on my car was $18k less than what they were asking for a similar vintage, less well optioned C2S on the lot at the time. When I pointed out the discrepency, that's when they admitted to making a lot more on a used car than new one. The new car sales manager even went so far as to recommend that I sell mine privately, if I had the time. As he explained, many of their trade ins are from "desparate" sellers that got in over their head or had other circumstances that required they get rid of the car quickly. And, unfortunately, some of these desparate sellers were probably not careful about break in, proper warm up and responsible driving. Accidents repairs are not allowed, but improper break in and abuse is hard to detect until it's too late.
 
CPO or private-party, it pays to do your research and shop around.
 

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