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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Pontiac GTO Prices Paid and Buying Experience
317 messages, Last post on Mar 22, 2008 at 8:54 AM
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There were no "fixes" applied for 2005 and 2006 model years relating to "strut rub". They may have paid closer attention to alignment (including cradle alignment) from the factory, but any 2004-2006 GTO equipped with the factory 17" wheels, and 245 width tires, is at risk of having its tires impact the struts. As posted elsewhere, this is likely due to alignment issues which may be exacerbated by blown factory radius rod bushings as well as collapsed strut mounts. Aftermarket fix is the only solution for the first problem, and will go a long way to address the second. GM's fix of max positive camber will definitely shorten your tire life by wearing down the outer "shoulders" of the tire quicker. Regarding the pricing on new GTO's, they are at most a year and a half old, not two (since the first 2006 models did not arrive on dealer lots until December of 2005/January of 2006). Pontiac built extra 2006's (~14k of them - Monaro production ended nearly six months before GTO production) because they knew they wouldn't have anything to replace them with until the G8 hits early next year/they knew the GTO wouldn't meet the 2007 airbag specifications. Furthermore, with only ~600 GTO's remaining, and maybe 125-150 of those being manuals, it has come down to a seller's market. If you're in the market to get one, if you can find the color combo you want new and can afford it, now's the time. For those wanting a good deal, GM did put many of its field reps into GTO's resulting in a large number of slightly-used (3k-6k mile) GTOs out there (sold to GM dealers only at special auctions). The two most important things you can do if you're considering any used car are: 1) proper test drive/inspection (looking for issues) 2) having a GM dealer run a GMVIS report on the vehicle (requires the VIN number). This will tell you the delivering dealer, date of delivery, and any service-related work done to the car, warranty or no. The last thing you want to be doing is buying SEP: someone else's problem... Regarding mileage, no six-speed GTO owner should complain about "poor" gas mileage (unless you keep your foot buried in the throttle, and/or are driving 100+ miles/day). EPA says 21 city/29 hwy... more like 18/26 in the real world - heck, even my A4 '04 averages 18 city/21 hwy, better than my wife's 2004 GMC Envoy w/I6... --Robert LS1GTO moderator
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I have an internet quote of $29,000 + TTL with 0%/60 months. It is a torrid red/ black/ 18"/ M6. I am checking for strut replacement. Can anyone do a GMVIS on VIN#: 6G2VX12U86L825371 Deal or no deal? 
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Replying to: hammen2 (Jul 09, 2007 7:57 pm) 1) buy a GTO with the 18" wheels with the p235 tires, 2) Have GM do it's max positive camber adjustment only to prematurely wear the outer edges of the p245 tires, 3) Refit with aftermarket equipment. In the end a typical GM experience that will cost money no matter how one approaches it. I want a GTO but the common sense side is telling me not to bother.
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Replying to: usa2 (Jul 12, 2007 5:03 pm) My guess is that the car is outside the range of VINs that require strut replacement. The last built car was completed on June 7 2006 and it had an 838xxx VIN. Your 825xxx VIN is probably a mid-May build; the defective strut issue afflicts cars built from mid-January of 2006 until May 4/5, so, assuming my assumptions are correct, it's unlikely you've got the bad struts...
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Replying to: ssguy69 (Jul 12, 2007 9:22 pm) Suspension mods to fix the weak points would cost between $120 (SuperPro Radius Rod Bushings - I bought them from http://www.autoformgroup.com) and $240 (http://www.peddersusa.com). Pedders also makes HD strut mounts and sells replacement strut bearings - $38.79 and $34.71, ea. (and bear in mind you need two of each). So, for about $375 in parts + maybe an hour's worth of labor (the radius rod bushings you can do in your driveway if you're at all mechanically inclined) + an alignment , you'd be pretty-well set. If you've driven the car and haven't fallen in love with it, then maybe it isn't the car for you. But if you love the driving experience but are afraid of the possible things that may go wrong, well, my experiences have been overall positive/I love the car - and I know I'm not alone (there are a fair number of new GTO's which have rarely seen the dealer - as well as the occasional car that lives there - I had that experience with my first GTO, unfortunately, but GM (eventually) took care of me...
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| That VIN IS within the bad srtut range. Do not know if they have been replaced or not. | |
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Replying to: hammen2 (Jul 13, 2007 10:40 am) |
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| If they had this car on their lot the whole time (i.e. they didn't dealer-trade), it's their own laziness in not keeping up with the paperwork. Make them order them ASAP (quote the Y-6099 or whatever the field action # is) so they get replaced ASAP/don't drive the car much (or at all if the struts fail, otherwise you risk contaminating other suspension parts/brakes et. al.) | |
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Replying to: hammen2 (Jul 13, 2007 10:48 am) |
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Hey all, I just sealed the deal on a Red on RED 2006 GOAT with... 2,041 miles! It's certified used to boot, which is amazing because I picked it up for $25,000 before a trade. I've been doing research on this car and I know about the Strut issue. The build date of my car is 07-07-06 so i don't believe it is an issue with mine. The only draw back is that it's five hours away in Virginia haha but the deal was too good to pass up. If any of my fellow GOAT owners (God it feels good to say that) have any comments or tips I would appreciate it. Thanks- Evan
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