249 messages,
Last post on Oct 25, 2011 at 7:52 PM
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BMW M/M3/M6 Forum.
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BMW M3, Coupe, Convertible
#94 of 249 Rear Trailing Control Arm Bushings Gone Bad
by ian1stad
Oct 18, 2007 (9:19 pm)
Interesting story (I guess, maybe not) my wife's 2003 M3 convertible went thru a pair of michelins that we had just bought for the rear...could not figure out why a brand new set of tires would wear in less than 4months...my mechanic (Not BMW just a local shop) had the car alligned a number of times..finally he had another M3 with the same problem..one of his coworkers looked deep in the rear and found that the guys bushings were bad...he fortunately had it covered under warranty...when they put my wife's car up she had the same problem ....i took the car back to BMW...and 700 dollars later the Rear bushings were replaced (fortunately i have that Mercury Extended Warranty i talked about a few postings back) so i'm now happy i had purchased the warranty. We'll see if it pays off down the road.!! Watch 'CRIMINAL MINDS" Wednesday nights at 9pm on CBS, we're #1 in our timeslot!!!
#95 of 249 M3 beeping
by whitem3
Oct 19, 2007 (6:20 am)
I have a 95 M3-85000 miles. In the pasdt few years it has started to beep occasionally. Usually it only happens once, out of the blue, whilke I am driving. It is a series of three beeps in rapid succession. Nothing else happens, everything runs fine, and I just go on my merry way. What is the significance of the beep?
Also, when the radiator and the rear shock mounts look pristine, how many of you E36 owners have replaced them anyway?
#96 of 249 Re: M3 beeping [whitem3]
by roadburner
Oct 19, 2007 (11:27 am)
What is the significance of the beep?
Probably a setting on the onboard computer. The speed or ice alarm would be my guess.
Also, when the radiator and the rear shock mounts look pristine, how many of you E36 owners have replaced them anyway?
I'd definitely replace the radiator within the next six months or 6K miles. In an E36 of your vintage the radiator can fail without warning at any time. It's a fairly inexpensive procedure that you can do yourself. If you plan to keep and/or track the car I'd consider fitting the Zionsville Autosport all metal radiator. It's not cheap, but it cures the radiator problem permanently.
When the rear shock mounts start to go you'll hear them. Replace them with the Meyle HD RSMs from UUC Motorwerks.
#97 of 249 Re: M3 beeping [roadburner]
by whitem3
Oct 19, 2007 (1:00 pm)
Thanks again friend. I have followed most of your previous advice. I guess I will do the radiator soon. RSMs-I don't know.
#98 of 249 Re: M3 beeping [whitem3]
by roadburner
Oct 19, 2007 (3:03 pm)
RSMs-I don't know.
Unlike a radiator, the RSMs will give you an audible warning, so you can certainly wait until you hear them.
#99 of 249 2002 BMW M3- E46 SMG
by nixter5
Nov 24, 2007 (4:12 pm)
I just purchased an '02 BMW M3 w/ 52k miles on it a week ago. Does anyone know what I should be checking on in terms of preventive maintenance? Is there a part that needs to be replaced normally at this point? Sorry, I'm new to this mean machine.
Thanks!
#100 of 249 Interesting issue-what do you think?
by ian1stad
Nov 27, 2007 (11:38 pm)
2003 M3 convertible...last december i was getting a clutch type stutter in 1st gear as i lightly hit the gas..took it to the dealership and here's what they did..."Clutch Pressure Plate faulty. Self-Adjustment. Clutch operation bad in first gear. Remove SMG Transmission to inspect. Disc material surface was ok but found pressure plate self-adjustment all the way out. shows signs of chattering on plate surface. Flywheel found ok. Remove and replace clutch assembly and reassemble -BLE SMG Trasmission." That was just 11 months ago...same problem again!! Thank god it's covered under their 2 year parts warranty, they didn't have to go to my aftermarket warranty from Mercury. Why is this happening again??? Also everytime i go to that dealership he's trying to tell me i'm due for a Brake fluid Flush???? How often should i do that??? I always feel that's basically the dealership trying to "HOSE" me.
#101 of 249 Re: 2002 BMW M3- E46 SMG [nixter5]
by roadburner
Nov 28, 2007 (8:57 am)
Does anyone know what I should be checking on in terms of preventive maintenance? Is there a part that needs to be replaced normally at this point? Sorry, I'm new to this mean machine.
Do you have access to the car's service records? That would help determine what service the car needs. In any event, I would change the oil at 7.5K intervals using Castrol 10W-60 and a BMW filter. Brake fluid needs to be changed at least every two years using a quality DOT 4 fluid, such as BMW, Castrol LMA, or ATE Super Blue Racing. If your car sees the track(and it should), change it every 6 months. Coolant should be changed every two years using BMW Coolant ONLY. I'd follow the Service Interval Indicator for all other service. Your owner's manual contains information on the SI system.
#102 of 249 Re: Interesting issue-what do you think? [ian1stad]
by roadburner
Nov 28, 2007 (9:07 am)
Why is this happening again???
I know that the self adjusting pressure plate has caused problems in the MT cars. Most people swap it for a conventional pressure plate, which has a better "feel" and is more reliable. I don't know if that's possible with your car. I'd check with the guys at UUC Motorwerks and see what they recommend.
Also everytime i go to that dealership he's trying to tell me i'm due for a Brake fluid Flush???? How often should i do that???
Street driven cars cars can have the fluid flushed every two years(DOT 4 fluid ONLY). Cars that see track use should change the fluid every 6 months.
#103 of 249 clunking noise
by gotm
Dec 01, 2007 (12:19 am)
Hello everyone I am an new owner of e46 M3 2003 6spd with 45K miles, bought it preowned from private but still carried the CPO certified from BMW until end of next year. I love the car, the look but not the shifting clunking noise. My car recently rev pretty high between gears. Majority on 1st and 2nd Its feel like a car with turbo lack meaning rev high but car move not as fast as it should be. I don't feel the push to the seat anymore. I also hear clunking noise when I am about to shift. I could literally feel the metal hitting each other on the drivetrain to the rear differential. Anyone in here have that problems? How do I fix it and what causing it to be like that. I already schedule for service next week and I will let you all know what they got to say. Any feed back greatly appreciated.
thank you