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BMW M3 Maintenance and Repair

250 messages,  Last post on Jun 10, 2013 at 4:37 PM

You are in the BMW M/M3/M6 Forum.

What is this discussion about? BMW M3, Coupe, Convertible

Messages Page 26 of 26

#248 of 250 2001 M3 power train question by gmonkies

Oct 25, 2011 (5:45 pm)

Hi,
 
My M3 now has about 92,000 miles. I am starting to have some power train issue that I'm not sure if it is a major concern.
 
1) Since last year, my oil light on the cluster will come on once in awhile even though the oil and filter is not due for a change and the oil level is normal. When I turn the car off, and back on again, the light disappear. Is is a bad oil pressure sensor or is it something more serious like a bad oil pick up or oil pump?
 
2) When I cold start the car, I can hear a slight tapping and disappear pretty quickly. But if the engine is warm, i don't hear a tapping noise. Do I need a valve adjustment or something more serious.
 
3) My transmission is manual. Every so often, I cannot shift into gear 1 to 4 and it feels like is only in half way. Once awhile, I would mistakenly think that it was in gear and the shifter bounce back to neutral when I step on the gas. Then I would realize that it was not in all the way. But it does not happen too frequently and once it is in gear, then it does not pop back out. Do I need to bleed the clutch or change tranny oil. Or is it something major like needing a new set of clutch even though it is not slipping or need to replace the synchro on the tranny?
 
Any advice will be appreciated.
 
Thanks

#249 of 250 Re: 2001 M3 power train question [gmonkies] by MrShift@Edmunds HOST

Oct 25, 2011 (7:52 pm)

Replying to: gmonkies (Oct 25, 2011 5:45 pm)
yes! your valves ARE adjustable!
 
As for the transmission, I'd drain the oil and use a synthetic oil and how how it behaves.

#250 of 250 Re: 1998 BMW M3 Alarm [cd5818] by sabian_knight

Jun 10, 2013 (4:37 pm)

Replying to: cd5818 (Jan 20, 2007 10:35 am)
I also have had this same problem. Fob originally didn't work (purchased used).
I only got one key/fob. When I opened the fob to replace the battery I found the bracket/contact that holds the battery was broken away from the circuit board. I heated the existing solder points back up and reattached the bracket/contact. Voila! fixed... but then found it had the same problem as yours, so I guess I just assumed that maybe the re-solder wasn't so great or was getting weak power/signal problems. Is the problem in the fob or the alarm system? I know they have some other common electrical problems like the connection with the capacitor on the climate control circuit board.

Messages Page 26 of 26

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