250 messages,
Last post on Jun 10, 2013 at 4:37 PM
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BMW M/M3/M6 Forum.
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BMW M3, Coupe, Convertible
Dec 22, 2010 (1:59 pm)
My 99 M3 has Hamann badging including the steering wheel. What does this mean for this model? I understand about Hamann Motorsports but what is significant and was it a special order?
Thanks,]
Mik
Dec 22, 2010 (2:01 pm)
What is the differences between the E36 and E 46 platform and why did BMW do a midyear model change so there are two 99 models?
Thanks!
#243 of 250 Re: 1999 M3 [mphillipsm3]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Dec 22, 2010 (3:48 pm)
You can buy Hamann badging on eBay. I would think you'd know if you had a real Hamann M3 as you would have 350HP and be able to go 170 mph. So you tell us!
#244 of 250 Re: 1999 M3 [mphillipsm3]
by fedlawman
Dec 22, 2010 (5:51 pm)
The sedan always gets updated first, then the coupe, vert, and M follow the next year.
#245 of 250 Re: SMG- Manual Gear Box [jkaytor]
by yelnats7
Apr 04, 2011 (3:25 pm)
#246 of 250 Re: 2008 M3-Rear Grinding Metal Noise [roadburner]
by jjohnjohn
Oct 20, 2011 (6:15 am)
roadbunner, just read your email.
Thanks so much for your feedback. I never checked back because I figure no one would write back, but thanks again.
I hardly drive the car, it's a shame. It's a 2008 M3 with only 15,000 miles.
But in regards to your comment, why would it happen only with sharp RIGHT turns in the morning or when cold?
To be honest, I am not sure what is the function of LSD.
The warranty will expire soon, so I am worried if I have a problem I want to resolve soon.
Well, if you have a moment to spare, I would appreciate your insight again. Thanks again.
#247 of 250 Re: 2008 M3-Rear Grinding Metal Noise [jjohnjohn]
by roadburner
Oct 20, 2011 (3:47 pm)
I'm always glad to help a fellow BMW owner!
A limited-slip or locking differential will supply power to the wheel(s) that have the best traction. A diff without a limited slip or locking mechanism will feed all the power to the wheel that has no traction. Your car has a very sophisticated LSD called the M differential lock.
The best way to find out what is going on is to leave it at the dealer overnight so that a tech can replicate the problem- although note that the M diff is inherently noisy even when it is working properly. Sometimes changing the differential oil will cure or at least minimize the symptoms.
#248 of 250 2001 M3 power train question
by gmonkies
Oct 25, 2011 (5:45 pm)
Hi,
My M3 now has about 92,000 miles. I am starting to have some power train issue that I'm not sure if it is a major concern.
1) Since last year, my oil light on the cluster will come on once in awhile even though the oil and filter is not due for a change and the oil level is normal. When I turn the car off, and back on again, the light disappear. Is is a bad oil pressure sensor or is it something more serious like a bad oil pick up or oil pump?
2) When I cold start the car, I can hear a slight tapping and disappear pretty quickly. But if the engine is warm, i don't hear a tapping noise. Do I need a valve adjustment or something more serious.
3) My transmission is manual. Every so often, I cannot shift into gear 1 to 4 and it feels like is only in half way. Once awhile, I would mistakenly think that it was in gear and the shifter bounce back to neutral when I step on the gas. Then I would realize that it was not in all the way. But it does not happen too frequently and once it is in gear, then it does not pop back out. Do I need to bleed the clutch or change tranny oil. Or is it something major like needing a new set of clutch even though it is not slipping or need to replace the synchro on the tranny?
Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks
#249 of 250 Re: 2001 M3 power train question [gmonkies]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Oct 25, 2011 (7:52 pm)
yes! your valves ARE adjustable!
As for the transmission, I'd drain the oil and use a synthetic oil and how how it behaves.
#250 of 250 Re: 1998 BMW M3 Alarm [cd5818]
by sabian_knight
Jun 10, 2013 (4:37 pm)
I also have had this same problem. Fob originally didn't work (purchased used).
I only got one key/fob. When I opened the fob to replace the battery I found the bracket/contact that holds the battery was broken away from the circuit board. I heated the existing solder points back up and reattached the bracket/contact. Voila! fixed... but then found it had the same problem as yours, so I guess I just assumed that maybe the re-solder wasn't so great or was getting weak power/signal problems. Is the problem in the fob or the alarm system? I know they have some other common electrical problems like the connection with the capacitor on the climate control circuit board.