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Coupes & Convertibles BMW M/M3/M6 BMW M3 Maintenance and Repair
228 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 9:24 PM
You are in the BMW M/M3/M6 Forum. Your Host is claires
I have 49000 miles on my M-coupe. I have worn out my rear tires twice (byproduct of my right foot) but my front tires are just now coming to the wear bars. I want to get an alignment, but fear not getting the M numbers right. Does anyone know the correct specs for an M-Coupe? Also, I've called the 2 tire shops that I typically send my customers to, and they both told me to see the dealer because of special tools etc. needed to perform the alignment correctly. Is that right?!?!
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Replying to: Olds13 (Feb 16, 2009 12:07 pm) A good alignment shop is not necessarily just a tire shop.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Feb 17, 2009 8:33 am)
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Replying to: roadburner (Feb 19, 2009 5:43 pm) 
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Hi M3 owners, I found a set of M6 wheel & tire that i'm going to take a look in this weekend & intended to buy it for my 04-M3. The bolt pattern is the same so it will fit. But does anyone know is there anything wrong to use M6 wheel on a M3, because the wheel offset may be different from one another? Any insight from your past experience or comment is most welcome The M6 wheels look very sporty & the tires are still in great condition. The price is very reasonable & i really like to have them Thanks |
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Hi, I thought I have a main seal leak but luckily it was only the rubber 0-ring on oil pressure regulator on the side of the block. Does anyone know how often does that happen? Also, the bentley manual said that the bolt holding the metal plate for structure support under the engine area must be replaced every time, after removal. I order new bolts from BMW but using the old one until I get it. I torqued the old bolt back to spec and the car seems to be driving okay. Should I still change it when I get the new bolt or just save it till the next time I have to remove the metal plate again? One last thing is I replaced my window regulator and adjust the window alignment to be the same as the other side. Everything works fine except if the window goes up automatically, it will will comes down 1/3 of the way after getting to the top. I thought it was cause by the window going up too high. But when I adjust the window alignment so it does not reach the very top, it still does the same thing. Is there anything that I am suppose to rest to solve this minor problem? Thanks!
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Replying to: gmonkies (Mar 09, 2009 11:06 am) I'd change it. . But when I adjust the window alignment so it does not reach the very top, it still does the same thing. Is there anything that I am suppose to rest to solve this minor problem? Try this: Press the window down button. When the window is down - hold it down for 20 seconds. Then press the window up button (with the door closed) - and hold it up for 20 seconds once it's all the way up. These two steps teach the window the normal down and up positions. They're needed for auto-down/up and to keep the window from going too far up into the channel. There is a magnetic switch in the motor assembly that is adjusted by doing this.
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I'm considering an M3 Convertible and it will be my all-year round car. I drive about 23 miles each way from the suburbs to the city. Assuming I get good winter tires (and feel free to recommend any 18 inchers you feel are good), will this work or will I be white-knuckled all winter? I appreciate your thoughts - David
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Replying to: david112 (Mar 17, 2009 1:21 pm) Winter tires are the key, and, if they fit, I'd recommend 17" winters on dedicated wheels.. My wife drove an '05 330i with soft-top through three Cincinnati winters with no problem, and she really isn't much of a winter driver... and, we have a lot hillier terrain here, than in Chicago... We've used Goodyear Eagle Ultra-Grip and Dunlop WinterSports... both in 17" get-flats.... Don't really know much about run-flats, though, if you are going that direction. regards, kyfdx
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