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Coupes & Convertibles BMW M/M3/M6 BMW M3 Maintenance and Repair
228 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 9:24 PM
You are in the BMW M/M3/M6 Forum. Your Host is claires
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Replying to: gmonkies (Jan 08, 2008 6:25 pm) At any rate, they might be right. Turbos create more heat than SCers and also more 'surge' of power. SCers run cooler and offer a wider power band. So I could see this argument being correct in principle, although I could also see how the engineering of the particular kit could change the reliability factors either way. I guess it also depends on what PSI both these systems run at. Bottom line is that ANY bolt on kit, SC or turbo, is going to reduce engine life ultimately. You don't get something for nothing. You can take 10% right off the top on either application IMO.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 09, 2008 8:42 am)
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Replying to: gmonkies (Jan 10, 2008 12:38 am) |
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Does anyone know what repair manual I can get other than Bentley? I just got the Bentley manual and it did not include cylinder head work for M3 motor. So I don't have the torque spec to install the oil seperator on the head.  Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!
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Replying to: gmonkies (Jan 12, 2008 7:20 pm) Like I said in post #114, join BMW CCA. You will then have online and phone access to the club's technical advisors. |
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Replying to: gmonkies (Jan 05, 2008 1:51 am) I took my car in to the dealer for a recall (2002 M3) and they told me I need the euro valve and the power steering hose changed because they are both leaking. They quoted me $900 for the euro valve and $650 for for the power steering hose. I came across your thread after doing some research the the web. Did you fix the problem your self? If yes, was it hard to change out? Thanks for your help in advance.
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Hey all, seems like there is a lot of people here who know their stuff, so I am seeking some help....I am shopping around for a 2002 or 2003 M3, but obviously with a car that is out of warranty, I am a little nervous shelling out for a used vehicle that could potentially have a lot of reliability issues. Any thoughts on reliability, maintenance costs, etc? Any "horror stories" out there with an M3? I am kind of torn between an M3 and a 2005-2006 G35, solely for the fact that there are tons of certified pre-owned G coupes in the Chicago area for a comparable price. As one poster said earlier, however, I would be willing to "roll the dice" on an M3 out of warranty if the reliability is sound. Thanks in advance! |
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Replying to: blumtown (Jan 29, 2008 8:20 pm) If it were me, I'd: 1. Find out all the problem areas by doing research 2. Buy the BEST M3 you can afford. No projects, no question marks, no salvage titles, no cars with zero service history, no cars titles from Louisiana, Alabama or New Hampshire. 3. Have the car meticulously inspected by an M3 specialist. Doing all this, you've improved your odds 90%. Is all this a guarantee of a happy life? No, it isn't but you are WAY ahead of the average buyer. Here, this will get you started! http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=25&Itemid=55- #cooliris
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Replying to: blumtown (Jan 29, 2008 8:20 pm) What you must keep in mind is that you need to service any BMW by the book. Cutting corners on maintenance will end up costing more in the end. |
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I do agree with the advice above that is best to have a certified BMW mechanic to go through the inspection before purchasing a used M3. I bought mine a month ago. The car looks, feels, sounds and drive like a new car. But luckily I ask the dealer to do the same list of visual inspection check as they would for their own certified pre-own. That cost about $125. But more importantly, I also asked them to do a compression test to make sure the engine is stil fresh and do a driving inspection. That cost another $400. It was $ worth spend because they found leaks from the oil seperator and power steering hose which could cause some major damage. I would have never been able to discover that myself from test driving it. Now I am driving my M3 cautiously until I get it fixed. This is where I'm stuck and need help I need to change the oil separator, part # 11-15-7-830-948 and the new O-ring. I purchase the Bentley repair manual and join the BMWCCA as recommended. However, the manual did not have any torque specification for installing a new oil separator. Some of the TSA that I have contacted from BMWCCA either couldn't help me or told me to call a dealership. I was not able to get the info from a local BMW dealer either. I have the parts and the diagram. I'm sure I know how to do it right if I have the torque spec so I don't over or under tigten. And I really don't want to spend over $800 in labor if I can do it myself. If anyone know the specification or know who I can speak to that can help me, I would appreciate the assistance.
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