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Toyota Camry 2007

5260 messages, Last post on Aug 27, 2009 at 4:53 PM
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Replying to: wwest (Oct 25, 2008 8:18 am) You said in a post many months ago that driving style affected downshift crispness. I find that to be the case with my HL and Camry (both with 3.3L and 5 sp auto). Depending on throttle position when a downshift is "requested," sometimes the shift is almost immediate, other times there is a noticeable lag. In 8 years of total driving with these two vehicles, there have only been a handful of instances when I really needed a faster downshift. It's a "problem" that I can live with.
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Replying to: lmacmil (Oct 26, 2008 5:53 am) As will most. But. The conditions under which you may need quick and certain acceleration are pretty much unpredictable. The conditions under which a 1-2 second downshift delay will occur are predictable but not in any way to prevent an accident that was otherwsie avoidable were you able to quickly accelerate predictably. |
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Good Morning All: I will be taking the Camry into the dealer on Dec. 23 for a 40,000 mile oil & filter service. --- ( I will be doing a lot of driving over the holiday.) ---- The vehicle will be two years old in January. To date, I do not have any problems with this vehicle. On the highway, with 87 octane fuel, I get 30 mpg. I use "name brand" and / or "off brand fuel," and I still get the same mileage. (NO, I do not work for Toyota or a Toyota dealer! I was just lucky to get a great running vehicle.) Best regards! --------- Dwayne |
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Good morning all: My vehicle now has 41,205 miles. To date, this vehicle has been trouble free! Last week I traveled to PA, and the vehicle gave me an average of 30mpg on the highway with 87 octane off-brand gasoline! On Tuesday, I stopped at the dealer and I ordered two new tires for the Camry. They will be installed at the next service, which will be on Feb. 27. At that time, I will have a four wheel alignment done to protect my tire investment. (I also asked the dealer to be sure that the new tires had a current production date. I do not want new tires that are years old!) I enjoy driving this vehicle, and I am looking forward to my next Camry, (possibly a 2010). By this time next year, I will have a least 60,000 miles on the vehicle if not a little more. That would be an excellent time to explore the "possibility" of a trade for a new vehicle. ----- If the "numbers are right," I will do the deal. ----- If the "number are not right," I will keep the Camry till 100,000 miles, or I will look at another brand name, possibly a Chevrolet Impala, (if I can find the trim level in New Jersey that I want! ---- I WILL NOT ORDER A VEHICLE FROM THE FACTORY.) Best regards to all! ------------ Dwayne
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Replying to: djm2 (Jan 11, 2009 4:07 am)
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Replying to: dmathews3 (Jan 11, 2009 6:48 am) You make an excellent point, ---- but I still have one year of payments left on the Camry, and before I purchase a vehicle from the "BIG THREE," I want to be sure that they will be "in business" to give me warranty service after the purchase for at least three (3) years! I would love to go back to a vehicle produced by either GM or Ford. (Chrysler is another story!------) Best Regards! --------------- Dwayne
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Replying to: djm2 (Jan 12, 2009 1:44 am) But for that to happen they need to: A) "Clone" (adopt..??) the CX-7, adapt it to the RDX' SH-AWD system and use the FEH/MMH/tribute hybrid drive system. or: B) "Clone" the Lexus LS/h but using the GS/h's more FE hybrid drive system but with the engine revised to DFI and Atkinson cycle, maybe even "option" the RDX' F/AWD or the GS's R/AWD system. Otherwise my next purchase will be the new 2010 RX350, providing its new F/awd system is more closely equivalent to the SH-AWD. |
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Hello; My 2007 Camry CE with 2.4 4cyl engine makes a slight engine noise (knock) every morning when it's cold (around 18 to 28f ). It's noticeable during idle and mild acceleration, until the engine is fully warmed up. Then it's barely noticeable when the needle at the temp gauge is almost at the middle. It sounds like a valve noise or a slight knock. I know that the sound is not coming from any where outside the engine (i.e drive belts, alt, or a/c compressor.) Oil has been changed regularly since new at the dealer every 4-5k miles, then I switched to mobil 1 synthetic 5-20 since 32,000 miles (I still change the oil every 4-5k miles) because I have read in this forum about the sludge issues that toyota engines have encountered and wanted to have the extra protection that synthetic offers. It now has 46,000 miles. I'm wondering if I should wait until the noise worsens so I could let the dealer hear it because they might just ignore me or say that it's "normal" when I go there especially when it only happens during cold starts and it would be fully warmed up when I get there. I have an extended warranty of up to 75,000 miles. Hopefully somebody out there could give me a good advice and shed some light on this matter if you have experienced the same symptoms. thanks, tony
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Replying to: tony108 (Jan 29, 2009 7:19 am) How do you know the noise isn't from the drive belts or accessories? If the noise is slight and sounds like marbles rattling in a can, you might try a different brand of gasoline or even a higher octane grade to see if it goes away. But light knocking under load is considered normal, so you don't have to keep using gas with octane ratings above 87. If it's valve noise, or what I call "clatter," this is not unusual on cold startup, because the oil sitting in the pan needs a few seconds to get up into the valve area. However, it's hard to make a diagnosis on the internet. You could leave your car at the dealer the night before (most places have a "night drop" past business hours) and have them cold start the car the next morning. Obviously, you'll need someone to get you to and from the dealer's location. |
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I bought my 07 Camry XLE in Oct 2006. From the very 1st oil change something was wrong. Shy of 1,000 miles for oil change when making turns the dash would flash a msg which read "Low Oil Pressure". I informed the DCH Tech about the flash message. Nothing was done. Each time the car was due for an oil change I made mention of the message flash on the dash when I made turns and only when the car was around 1,000 miles short of an oil change. In March 2009 I took my car to my local mechanic to change the breaks (yes I use genuine toyota parts). On my way I made a turn and the flash message low oil pressure lit my dash. When my mechanic finished the brakes he checked the oil it was empty. It's routine for the mechanic to check the fluids before returning the car to its owner. We authorized him to put oil in, 3 quarts total. My maintenance light came on just last Thursday, April 9, 2009. The breaks were changed on March 21, 2009. On Friday, April 10, 2009 I took the car in to DCH for oil change and told them about the message flashed on the dash, but this time also that my mechanic put 3 qrt of oil and showed the tech the reciept. I told the tech that I've been telling DCH techs each time the car was due for an oil change and nothing was done since. Now they finally payed attention and duly noted that there could be a problem. I was told the pan plug was marked to assure no one tampers with it and I should return the car w/in 500 miles for an oil consumption test. I took the car in today 04/21/2009 and finally they found a problem. The car was in deed consuming more oil than the manufactures recommendations and they would need to open the engine to fix the problem. I received a call a few hours later and was told there is a Internal Problem with the Short Block and it would need to be rebuild. Is this normal for a Short Block on the engine to go bad so fast. (less than 50K miles). I would expect the short block to go bad on a car with over 150K miles and poor maintenance record. Anyone out there experience this same problem? What makes a Short Block go bad so early? Anyone, Someone, Please let me know. Thank you. My Diamond in the Ruff!
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