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Toyota Camry 2007

5260 messages, Last post on Aug 27, 2009 at 4:53 PM
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Hi All: I just got back from a road trip to Gettysburg Pa. My vehicle has just about 24,000 miles and I just made an appointment for the 25,000 mile service. The vehicle averaged 30 mpg on the highway traveling at 55 to 65 mph. The transmission shifts properly and the engine is very responsive. At this service interval, I will have the engine oil and filter changed and the tires rotated. I rotate the tires every 5,000 miles. I spent two days in Gettysburg, and I made it a point to check the engine oil level prior to starting out each day. The oil level was at the "full mark" and it was clean. I have never had to add oil to this engine, (between oil changes), since I purchased this vehicle new! I recognized that there are Camrys out there with problems, but my vehicle seems to be operating properly at the present point in time. Based on my experience with this vehicle and the selling dealer, I would purchase another Camry in the future. Both the ride and the performance of this vehicle is great. Best regards. -------------Dwayne |
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I was wondering if anybody was having problems with the heating/ac thermostat. When my temperature is set at 67, it is actually registering 100 on a thermometer. The dealership is giving me the run-around as to what the problem could be. When I lower the temp from 67 to 65 there's no change. But when I set the temperature on low it becomes frigid. I'd appreciate knowing if anyone else has had similar problems. Thanks
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Replying to: dino19 (Feb 19, 2008 2:57 pm) On a cold day 100F airflow at the exit from the footwell outflow ducts might be perfectly normal,
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Replying to: wwest (Feb 19, 2008 7:00 pm)
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Replying to: dino19 (Feb 20, 2008 2:53 pm) There is an inside, cabin, air temperature sensor mounted somewhere near the from seat passengers, in a Toyota or Lexus most often behind a small "window" above the driver's right knee. If your temperature setpoint is, say 72F, and the cabin has not yet warmed to that level the system airflow, OUTFLOW, will almost always be above your setpoint. The farther the cabin air temperature is away from your setpoint the greater the difference will be but not usually to the point of actual discomfort. The other thing important is the OAT, Outside Air Temperature. Only the manufacturer really know the OVERALL heat transfer coefficient of the vehicle and it may well take 100F airflow from the footwell outlets to keep the interior at 72F if it is cold outside, REALLY cold outside. And there is an aspect of the human comfort equation, a HUGE aspect, that NO modern day system that I know of takes into account. Loss of body heat via radiant "cooling", in reality the lack, sometimes COMPLETE lack, of incoming radiant heating from the surrounding landscape. When I get into my '01 RX300 on a cold day, sub-40F, I use the following procedure. 1. A/C OFF (***1), FRESH inlet airflow mode and seat heating on HIGH. 2. HVAC system on automatic but with setpoint at max heat. 3. When the blower starts up (delayed until the engine coolant reaches ~130F) then I immediately over ride the outlet airflow mode to footwell and windshield (***2) mode. 4. I then lower the blower speed to something not quite as intrusive, noise wise, as it would be were it left in automatic. 5. As the cabin warms and my comfort level rises I continuously lower the temperature setpoint until it is somewhat above what I would normally consider (at home) my personal comfort level, 75F vs 72F. My final temperature setpoint, as well it should be, is very much a function of BOTH the radiant effects of the surrounding landscape AND cabin air temperature. Left to its own "resources" the system would automatically switch into "cooling" mode, either combined footwell and dash outlet airflow or if the cabin air temperature is/becomes close enough to your setpoint it will switch into dash outlet airflow ONLY. Brrrrr.... Forcing the use of combined footwell and windshield air outflow has a few non-obvious advantages. Depending on outside temperature and roadspeed the interior surface of the windshield might be cooled, CHILLED even, to the dewpoint of the cabin atmosphere wherein condensation would begin to form, sometimes so quickly that safety is compromised. Using the combined mode the interior windshield surface will be kept warmed and the resultant airflow reflected toward the front seat passengers will be only somewhat cooled and therefore not as discomforting as would be the more COOL airflow that would otherwise result from the system entering "cooling" mode automatically. ***1 As of '01 the RX300 has a C-BEST option wherein the A/C can be disabled indefinitely simply by switch it off once. Prior to that I always disconnected the A/C compressor clutch circuit during the winter months. ***2 When the system enters either partial or full windshield defrost/defog/demist mode the A/C almost always made operational, oftentimes with no indication of same to teh driver. Here again in '01 the RX300 had a C-BEST option that will UNLINK the A/C from operating automatically. Since '01 Toyota/lexus have added at least one more C-BEST option of importance here. The system can be set so it will not automatically switch from heating mode to cooling mode as the cabin air temperature rises closer and closer, close enough to your temperature setpoint. Again, there are non-obvious advantages to this new C-BEST feature. In footwell mode a portion of the system airflow is ALWAYS diverted to the interior surface of the windshield to help keep it warmed above dewpoint. Once the system automatically switches into partial or full cooling mode there is no method provided for keeping the windshield interior surface warmed above dewpoint. So for safety's sake ALWAYS leave the system in footwell mode when the OAT is below ~45F or if the radiant effects of the surrounding landscape are at a body "cooling" level. More recent Toyota/Lexus product have yet another feature in this regard. These newer systems will automatically switch (back..) into heating mode wherein teh interior surface of the windshield will be continuously warmed if the OAT declines below ~35F. |
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i tried turn off vsc camry 2007 1.) Start the car with parking brake on. 2.) all within 30 seconds, depress and release the brake pedal twice. 3.) immediately, de-activate and re-engage the parking brake twice. 4.) the VSC/trac light on the dash will light, the VSC/trac is now deactivated until you restart the car. this not work in my car 2007 camry v6
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Replying to: paul2007 (Mar 01, 2008 1:22 pm) |
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I want to replace the 16" factory wheels and hubcaps with 17" SE wheels. I will buy rims and tires, but what about the TPS sensors? Can I re-use tho ones in the factory wheels? If I buys 16" alloys from Toyota, can I re use the TPS sensors? Thanks for the info.
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Replying to: jptpa (Mar 25, 2008 10:42 am)
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Replying to: adamw812 (Mar 26, 2008 1:04 am) |
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