Last post on Feb 12, 2013 at 4:55 PM
You are in the Smart Shopper
What is this discussion about?
Car Safety, Buying Insurance, Coupe, Convertible, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV, Van
#267 of 272 Re: Totaled Vehicle [mlamela21]
Jul 18, 2012 (7:12 am)
Sorry to hear about your Jeep. It sounds like a pretty severe damage to the vehicle. Luckily, no one was in it, and no one was injured.
Unfortunately, you have no say in this matter. Insurance companies have guidelines that they follow. And if the max threshhold is not reached, they will not total the vehicle.
Another consideration is that if they total the vehicle, depending on the type of policy you have, they may simply pay off the amount owed, and leave you with nothing. This is number 1 reason not to put large sums of money as a downpayment on a leased vehicle. Once it is totaled, you may get nothing.
If I were you, I would read the insurance coverage documents that they sent you in the mail when you signed up and read them very carefully. If you have the type of policy that only covers the amount owed on the vehicle, then you are SOL, since you will be without a car, and your $7,000 downpayment is down the drain.
If you do indeed have that type of coverage, it is in your best interest to have the vehicle repaired, drive it out the duration of the lease, and then simply walk away from it. And start saving money for a downpayment on the next vehicle now, since you will have nothing at the end of the lease.
#268 of 272 Re: Totaled Caddy- undervalued. What now? [luckymom]
Jul 25, 2012 (10:38 pm)
I had an old 77 Chevy 1/2 ton pick up that got sandwiched between a 90s Jeep Wrangler and the metal divider on the freeway. It was totally the other guys fault, because he changed lanes right into me and the tire marks of his rear wheel was clearly halfway on my doors.
Anyways, although the value was maybe $1000, I had many new parts, new carpet, and modified it to mount BMW Z3 leather seats. The damage I had was two dented in front fenders, bend front bumper, broken front lights, and a dented door. The adjuster cut me a check for $3500 and I got to keep my truck (not totaled).
It cost me maybe a couple hundred in parts both new and some from the wrecking yard.
So for now on I'm looking for the next idiot that is too preoccupied with their cell phone to look in a mirror to change lanes, screw up their insurance rating and throw me a few extra bucks. LoL
#269 of 272 Re: Total loss on '01 Accord? [01accordlx]
Jul 26, 2012 (9:36 am)
...and you don't have to go through the insurance agent or adjuster of the person that damaged your car. You should talk to your own agent to get the best numbers.
These "adjusters" are not your friend. They work for the insurance company and they want to save them money, or they may be out of a job. For example; if your car is worth $20k, they'll probably offer you $15.5k. Which you may see as more than fair. Your happy and the rep is happy for saving money for their employers.
Case in point (2000 BMW 528i): I recently had a friend that had someone run into his car, and they deemed it a total loss. The first rep offered about $9k, but then he went to his agent and got $800 more. Needless to say we found a replacement BMW a year newer (2001 530i), lower mileage, and very good condition. He's even happier with the colors vs his previous car.
#270 of 272 Re: Totaled Caddy- undervalued. What now? [daytoncarcare]
Jul 27, 2012 (11:03 am)
$3500 is cheap for the company getting a Release & settlement that includes potential bodily injury.
#272 of 272 Small Claims Court or Other Guy's Insurance Offer?
Feb 12, 2013 (4:55 pm)
In January I signaled a left-hand turn at an intersection and was in the process of making the turn when a driver tried to pass me on the left. He admitted driving 57-58mph (over limit) and that he had seen my signal. He was cited for unsafe pass and has pleaded guilty and paid the fine. His insurer accepted 100% liability. Body shop repair estimate is $4659. My vehicle is a 2000 Chrysler Town & Country LX (long wheel base, E85 flex-fuel, wonderful condition) -- but with 229K miles on it. I had just gotten two new tires ($200+) had a complete tuneup/plugs/oc etc ($200+). We had purchased it with 39,959 miles on it and a prior salvage title and maintained it religiously, loved the vehicle, had every intention to continue driving it. Great, dependable vehicle. So of course his company is offering $1600 (deducting $847.23 for the "title history") -- based on a JD Powers Valuation report with "comparable" vehicles from 113 to 298 miles away from me. I have attempted to negotiate -- I showed them three other comparable flex-fuel T&Cs (years 2000-2003) within 100 miles of me, lower mileage but priced up to $6995 and proposed $3494 to his insurer. They refuse to budge from $1600. In my state (Iowa) the small claims limit is $5000. I am thinking of filing a small claims action against the other driver asking that he either repair or replace my vehicle. His insurer company will have a duty to defend him. I do not think that I will have trouble proving liability. Can I come out worse than the $1600? Any suggestions, ideas for negotiation -- anything? Thanks for any help--this has been very upsetting--driving along, minding my own business in a vehicle that I loved, and feel like I'm getting taken to the cleaners. Familiar story, I know.