Last post on Nov 17, 2013 at 8:38 AM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta
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Volkswagen Jetta, Biodiesel, Diesel, Sedan
#687 of 4777 Re: coolant loss 04 jetta tdi [i4edge]
Jan 29, 2006 (12:14 pm)
"I had the engine light come on (2004 Jetta TDI) with around 30k miles. Took it in to the dealer and they said it was the EGR Cooler? what the? and that it was damaged by using "green" antifreeze instead of the "pink"."
Thats pretty funny. The lameness of some VW dealers really never ceases to amaze me. The fact that these EGR coolers are failing at very high rates on the 04 PD's had nothing to do with your EGR cooler failing (I just had mine replaced at 26K miles), but the green coolant must have ate holes through this stainless steel heat exchanger (puhleeeeeeeese). You really don't want to put anything but G-12 red antifreeze in your Jetta because there are o-rings, seals and other things that might have their life shortened by it, but the EGR cooler certainly is not one of those items. This dealer should be ashamed of themselves for even suggesting it.
#688 of 4777 Re: TDI Oil changes [jonpnj]
Jan 29, 2006 (12:34 pm)
The timing belt change interval on the differant year TDI's vary quite a bit. Some of the earlier models required a 40K belt change (but there were upgrade belt kits that could be used to go 80K); the newer models go 100K before a belt change. One thing that I would highly recomend when you do your belt is changing everything that is driven or turns off of that belt including the water pump, tensioner and idler pulleys. If any of these items fail before your next timing belt, the odds are that they can take out your new timing belt and engine with it. Be aware that there are also certain stretch bolts on your engine mounts that cannot be reused when the TB is replaced also. TDI engines are interferance engines, if the timing belt breaks, or does not get replaced correctly it can easily cause the entire engine to get destroyed. I would suggest reading up on the subject at TDI club so you are more knowlegeable about what you really want done and while you are at it there are club members in some cities that can either do it themselves or recomend garages that will get it done right. Most cars today are all non-interferance engines, if you make a mistake changing the TB, or if a component like an idler roller fails 30K miles after the belt is changed its not that bad to correct the problem. This is not the case with these engines.
#689 of 4777 Re: TDI Oil changes [bpeebles]
Jan 30, 2006 (3:17 pm)
This may sound like a stupid question but how do you change the oil from under the hood? I have been changing the oil in my TDI and have never changed the oil plug, I just use an O ring and it seems to work well. But I do agree taking the fastners off is a pain. If there is an easy way I DO want to hear this and will try it.
#690 of 4777 Re: TDI Oil changes [sgaines]
Jan 30, 2006 (4:18 pm)
Basically, you suck the oil out thru the dipstick tube.
There are many oil-changing units available to do this. (Boats with "inboard" engines have no other choice... one does not drill a hole in the bottom of the boat to change the oil )
This is the Oil Changer which I use (got on sale for about 30 bucks)
Here is another example.
Also, you can use the oil-sucker to get the puddled oil out of the oil-filter housing too.
You can also used my oil-sucker to change differentail fluid, power-steering fluid , brake fluid and other fluids which have no drain.
#691 of 4777 Re: 2000 TDI motor dies interstate driving [sthompson1]
Feb 03, 2006 (9:19 am)
Sounds to me like your fuel filter is in need of replacement. Have you had it replaced recently? The symptoms are consistent with those of a clogged fuel filter. I had this problem in a 2001 Golf TDI (which I no longer own, sadly), and it had the exact same symptoms, with the exception of the exhaust smell (not sure where that's coming from). I hope that helps!
#692 of 4777 2002 Jetta TDI won't start
Feb 04, 2006 (6:18 am)
Hi,new guy here. My 2002 TDI won't start after I shut it off. On four occasions I had just started the engine, it had run for only about one minute. I shut it off to go back in the house , came out to start again and it wouldn't. It would turnover but not start. Had to wait about 30 minutes to start it. Any suggestions? Thanx
#693 of 4777 Re: 2002 Jetta TDI won't start [tac2]
Feb 04, 2006 (6:59 pm)
Dont start a diesel engine if you are not going to drive it.
By starting the engine then turning it off, you are confusing the onboard computer so much that it has troubles calculating the correct startup injection quantities.
You MAY be able to improve the situation by having your IQ checked. (Injection Quality) Also make sure all 4 of the glowplugs are functinoal.
#694 of 4777 Re: TDI Oil changes [bpeebles]
Feb 05, 2006 (7:58 am)
I purchased a Pela 6000 oil extractor as recommended on the TDI Club maintenance video, and used it to do the first oil change on my new 05.5 Jetta at just under 5000 miles, and used ELF 5W-40 505.01 oil and Mann filter.
I think the info on the video, and from the TDI club web site is correct that you can get more of the old oil out of the engine by placing the suction tube down into the oil cooler when the oil filter is removed. That oil doesn't come out by just letting the oil drain from the drain plug.
However, since I was installing the TDI Heater at the same time, and had the plastic skid plate removed anyway, just out of curiosity, I decided to remove the drain plug to see if there was any oil left in the pan.
After I had drained all the oil I could with the oil extractor, by putting it down both the dip stick tube, and the oil cooler body, I was surprised to get nearly 3/4 of a quart more out of the pan despite having made very sure the extractor tip was bottomed out in the pan through the dip stick tube.
Since I have 6ft deep grease pit in my garage that I can drive the car over to work on it, I didn't find taking the plastic skid plate off that big an inconvieniance. Getting that much more dirty oil out makes it worth the effort, so in the future I think I will use the drain plug to drain most of the oil, and the extractor to get out what remains in the oil cooler.
That was my observation. Now here is my question. Why does the drain plug need to be replaced after being removed? I wasn't aware of this, and put back the same plug I took out. I drove the car for about 15 minutes with the skid plate off then pulled back into garage and checked for coolant leaks from my TDI Heater installation, but also checked for oil leaks from the plug, and filter housing, and found none.
Thanks for any enlightening info you can provide.
#695 of 4777 Re: TDI Oil changes [sandman52]
Feb 05, 2006 (9:38 am)
I don't think that I have seen the oil change video doing on TDI club but I don't think they would tell you to replace the oil plug other than to reinstall it. I thinks its a good idea to replace the oil plug gasket every couple of changes but the oil plug itself should really never need to be replaced unless you decide to put in one of the plugs with a magnet on the end. I have an 04 PD TDI Jetta and I do both types of oil changes. At some point (particularly if you drive the car in the winter where it snows) you might want to consider replacing your plastic skid plate with an aluminum skid plate (there are a few options available to protect your pan if this applies to the 05's). I know on the 04 Jettas, the oil pan is aluminum and that plastic skid plate will not stop a chunk of frozen slush falling off of a truck wheel well from ripping up the plastic skid plate and putting a hole in your oil pan. I'm not sure if VW has gone back to a steel oil pan in the newer models. The other thing that you need to be carefull about with the aluminum oil pans is stripping the threads on the pan when you do the oil changes from underneath (I installed a Fumoto valve on my daughter's car to prevent this). I do a bottom side oil change for about every 2 or 3 topside changes. I also have found that no matter how hard I try to get it all out from the topside method, that I can usually get about 3/4 liter more out doing it from underneath (I just don't like having to remove my skid plate unless there are other things that I will be doing also). As far as the oil on these cars looking black and dirty, don't worry about that, someone at TDI club did an experiment and changed the oil 3 times in a row only running the engine long enough in between oil changes to flush it out and the oil after the last change still turned black immediately. I know that based on the wealth of data from used oil analysis at TDI club that the 10K oil change interval is quite adequate, so I just bump up my oil change interval to about 7,500 miles to compensate for that 3/4 liter that I don't get out when I do the topside extraction. If you want more peace of mind with your decisions, get set up to send a sample out for analysis when you do your change.
#696 of 4777 Re: TDI Oil changes [sandman52]
Feb 05, 2006 (9:49 am)
Other folks have done essentially the same thing and gotten little to no residual.
I would suspect that truly while it might be "distressing" in fact it is not a big deal.
I say that because if you look at the "dry" fill vs the oil change, the math indicates some oil is indeed left, i.e., you CAN NOT get all the oil out unless you dismantle the engine etc!!
Point two. the owners manual describes a dipstick measuring procedure. What it does indicated is that the "correct" oil level will show different on the dipstick during the correct procedure parameters than measured "overnight" Overnight will measure of course higher than normal.
I hope this is clear. If not fire your questions away.
Elf and Mann stuff are good products!!
As for the "crush" washers, they recommend new ones each time to serve as a reference points, for who knows when a used washer will lose its holding abiity and let the oil leak?