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VW Jetta TDI

4747 messages,  Last post on May 23, 2013 at 10:49 AM

You are in the Volkswagen Jetta Forum.

What is this discussion about? Volkswagen Jetta, Biodiesel, Diesel, Sedan

Messages Page 473 of 476

#4713 of 4747 Re: Bad fuel gives me the Shudders [longo2] by cosmo

Nov 07, 2012 (5:20 am)

Replying to: longo2 (Nov 06, 2012 11:15 pm)
We have a "06 and a "11, and had a "04, and have not experienced this problem. I always add Opti-Lube at each fill-up to increase the lubricity of the fuel. It is also claimed to increase the cetane rating and clean the injectors. I also try to always run the tank down until the warning light comes on before refilling. On long trips that is not always possible, but that way I know I always have a tank of mostly fresh fuel.
 
http://opti-lube.com/index.php/xpd-diesel-fuel-improver-product.html
 
You also may want to check your fuel filter.
 
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/fuel-filter-VW-Jetta-TDI-2005-2006.htm

#4714 of 4747 Re: Bad fuel gives me the Shudders [longo2] by coontie66

Nov 07, 2012 (5:42 am)

Replying to: longo2 (Nov 06, 2012 11:15 pm)
WOW. I have a diesel truck and this is quite a story. I really have no idea but I wouldn't think of the fuel filter as the problem. You need to change every 15K or so. It's been a long time since I saw a vehicle that w as picky about fuel.

#4715 of 4747 Re: Bad fuel gives me the Shudders [coontie66] by longo2

Nov 09, 2012 (6:54 pm)

Replying to: coontie66 (Nov 07, 2012 5:42 am)
You're right, it's not the fuel filter, changed it out last year, shuddering still a mystery.
 
 While on a brief trip the other day, I noticed the "battery" warning light had popped on. Thought it might be the serp' belt or alternator so stopped and had a look under the hood.
 
Somehow the pulley had completely come off the alternator but the belt was still running on the bare shaft! I guess the belt wasn't getting enough grip to spin the alt' enough and the warning light came on.
 
Local VW dealership had to order a new pulley and it will be here in a week.
The Jetta TDI alt' pulley not a solid pulley, but a clutch design, a rather complicated item..designed to grab and pull under load one way, but will free wheel the other way....
 
(Also a very pricy item that requires a special set of tools to take off and install...unless it flies off all on it's own like mine did!)
 
This guy goes through it much better and says..."it's a wear item that should be changed with each serp' belt R&R"...
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrFcPqZuO3A
 

#4716 of 4747 Re: Bad fuel gives me the Shudders [longo2] by bpeebles

Nov 09, 2012 (8:42 pm)

Replying to: longo2 (Nov 09, 2012 6:54 pm)
The pulley coming off the alternator is VERY COMMON. If you read thru the tdiclub.com website, you will see.
 
If you think the pulley is expensive.... for a long while, the pulley was NOT A REPLACEABLE ITEM and you had to replace the entire alternator when the pulley failed. In the last several years, the pulley became a separate item.
 
This happened to my TDI around 140K miles. I replaced pulley AND the the failed tensionor.... good to go for another 140K miles.
 
The reason for the pulley issues is because on the TDI engine the alternator pulley has a SPRAGUE CLUTCH. This one-way clutch allows the alternator to 'overrun' when the engine is decellerating.
 
DO NOT put a solidly-installed (non SPRAGUE) pulley on TDI engine.

#4717 of 4747 Re: Bad fuel gives me the Shudders [bpeebles] by longo2

Nov 10, 2012 (2:29 pm)

Replying to: bpeebles (Nov 09, 2012 8:42 pm)
"The pulley coming off the alternator is VERY COMMON"
 
That I didn't know!
 
From what I have now learned about it from checking this forum and others,
seems it's a "wear item" along with the serp' belt and tensioner that VW doesn't mention.
 
I now wonder, if for some strange reason...this worn out pulley acting up is the cause of my "shuddering" issues between 2000 and 2400 RPM. If it is causing a sudden alternator load on the engine when starting to pull up a grade on CC, then a different qualities of fuel, might..might, be able to create the shuddering effect.
  
 It's a long shot, but so far the alternator clutch pulley is the only suspect I have.

#4718 of 4747 Re: Bad fuel gives me the Shudders [longo2] by bpeebles

Nov 10, 2012 (8:33 pm)

Replying to: longo2 (Nov 10, 2012 2:29 pm)
It is EXTREMELY unlikely that an alternator pulley could fail in any way that you would feel it in the way the vehicle drives. I am confident you could cross "alternator pulley" off of your list of possible culprits. (or move it wayyy to the bottom of suspects.)
 
A for being a "wear item", this is simply a point of view. Eventually ALL machines will wear out. Using this logic... Your entire vehicle is a "wear item" too.
 
Another example- The Timing Belt has a specific replacement interval in miles. However...at the same time EVERY moving component that touches the TB is susceptible to wear and should be replaced at the same time the TB is replaced. These other components are not specifically mentioned in the TB replacement interval... but if you do not replace them, you are ASKING for failure before the next scheduled TB replacement. (Pullies, tensioner, bearings,waterpump, seals....etc.)
 
In other words -- the waterpump will NOT last as long as 2 Timing-Belts.... so it makes sense to replace the waterpump when the engine is torn apart to replace the Timing Belt. ( Because the TB needs to be removed to replace the waterpump) Most of the cost of TB replacement is LABOR...not parts. Would you want to pay for the same labor AGAIN before the next TB replacement? (along with the associated inconvenience of unexpected downtime)

#4719 of 4747 Another Repair by rrollntdi

Nov 19, 2012 (10:56 am)

I had a check engine light come on last week... It was a throtle body that needed replacement this time, about $600. I had a pressure sensor go in May ($200) and a door lock mechanism ($400) go about a year ago. I'm considering trading in my '09 Jetta TDI sedan since it only has 77K miles and I've already had to shell out $1,200 in repairs. Not to mention that the 80K mile ($400) DSG fluid change is due soon.

#4720 of 4747 Re: Another Repair [rrollntdi] by bpeebles

Nov 19, 2012 (7:06 pm)

Replying to: rrollntdi (Nov 19, 2012 10:56 am)
I am curious - how can a "throttlebody" go bad? It is simply a ventrui in which a butterfly valve moves.
 
Fo rthat matter - What kind of "pressure sensor" costs $200?
 
It sounds to me you need to consider changing your MECHANIC.... not your vehicle.
 
Oh- I agree with you about the cost of maintaining the DSG xmission... this is one reason I always drive a manual xmission. In over a million miles of driving, I have never EVER had any xmission problems. (all the way back to 1979 VW Scirocco)
 
It seems silly to pay MORE for a fancy xmission and also have to pay MORE to maintain it.

#4721 of 4747 Re: Another Repair [rrollntdi] by longo2

Nov 19, 2012 (9:00 pm)

Replying to: rrollntdi (Nov 19, 2012 10:56 am)
Had my DSG fluid and filter changed at 40,000 miles and again at 80,000 the service writer almost hugged me saying hardly anyone ever does it and then can't understand it when a DSG replacement costs over $4,000 and VW gives them the bill.
Last change of fluid/filter cost $270.00 at the dealership, not cheap by any means, but a much better deal than a new DSG.
 
I think VW originally thought the DSG option could be sold to customers by claiming it was a 'lifetime fluid' set up. Same mistake of a lot of other new cars being sold these days with automatics.
  
 One thing I know for sure, no a/t is "lifetime"...they produce iron filings, brass cuttings, melted plastic, rubber, aluminum shards, and fiberous clutch debris that when all combined is a circulating liquid sandpaper going through the tranny.
 Then there is the natural breakdown of the fluid itself....through heat and pressure, it's like a baby, and needs to be changed often and for the same reason.

#4722 of 4747 Re: Another Repair [longo2] by gagrice

Nov 19, 2012 (9:24 pm)

Replying to: longo2 (Nov 19, 2012 9:00 pm)
Good analysis. I see it as similar to oil changes on the engine. If you change every 10,000 miles as suggested it is about $50 or more. So after 40,000 miles you have spent $200. On my Toyota they recommend changing every 3000 miles. I used Toyota the first time and they charged $53 for dino oil cheap grade. Since then I use MobilOne and it is less than $50 every 5000 miles. Still about $400 every 40,000 miles. Insurance and evidence if something does happen.

Messages Page 473 of 476

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