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VW Jetta TDI

3707 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 6:14 PM

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What is this discussion about? Volkswagen Jetta, Biodiesel, Diesel, Sedan


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#2701 of 3707
Re: maint cost after 36k miles? [ruking1] by siberia
Feb 21, 2009 (1:32 pm)
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Replying to: ruking1 (Feb 21, 2009 7:27 am)

My brother has shot a lot of deer in his life. Maybe this was payback.
 
After I bought my TDI, I changed the oil and all the filters right away. Even though the car was nice and clean under the hood the air filter was bulged out in the middle and the fuel filter was corroded, looking like it had never been changed. Surprisingly, it ran fine and I couldn't tell any difference with the new filters. What really made the difference in how it runs was putting it on the highway for 12K miles. Runs like a different engine now.
 
#2702 of 3707
Re: maint cost after 36k miles? [siberia] by ruking1
Feb 21, 2009 (1:49 pm)
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Replying to: siberia (Feb 21, 2009 1:32 pm)

Indeed your post got me thinking of an important 5000 mile maintenance item that literally is in NONE of the technical literature. If one has a "snow screen" it should be cleaned every 5,000 miles !!!! TDI's were meant to be driven slightly to moderately aggressively.
#2703 of 3707
Re: maint cost after 36k miles? [ruking1] by rrollntdi
Feb 26, 2009 (9:07 am)
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Replying to: ruking1 (Feb 21, 2009 1:49 pm)

I was checking at the Dealer to see how much the 40K mile service was, the first one you have to pay for, on my 2009 TDI. They said the cost for the 2006 TDI with the DSG tranny is $469. This includes oil and filter, DSG fluid and filter, cabin filter, air filter. I know the parts would be about $260 from tdiparts.com. An oil and filter change is about $75. It seems as though you are captive to the dealer while the 60K powertrain warranty is in effect.
#2704 of 3707
Re: maint cost after 36k miles? [rrollntdi] by ruking1
Feb 26, 2009 (9:13 am)
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Replying to: rrollntdi (Feb 26, 2009 9:07 am)

No, you are not captive. You can actually DIY and or sub out stuff like the DSG oil and filter change for example. It is important to obviously keep the records and receipts.
#2705 of 3707
Re: maint cost after 36k miles? [rrollntdi] by jim314
Feb 26, 2009 (12:16 pm)
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Replying to: rrollntdi (Feb 26, 2009 9:07 am)

I think it is a fair price and money well spent. The dealer can be counted on to do it right, with no risk to you, no spillage on your property, and to dispose of all the waste fluids in an environmentally correct way. There's overhead in staffing and inventory.
 
I used to do oil changes on my wife's 1996 Volvo wagon (and normally all our other cars), then when she got a 2004 Volvo V70 it had a new type oil filter with a replaceable inner element which I wasn't familiar with. When the 3 or 4 years of dealer free maintenance was over I took it to a quick lube place because I didn't want to pay the dealer price, the other place was closer, faster, cheaper, and I could observe the oil change. I used to take my 1991 Dodge to this quick place with no problem. I would give them a Mobile1 filter and the exact oil I wanted used.
 
For this V70 I gave them a Volvo filter insert, O-ring seal, and 6 qts of Mobile1 10W-30 Extended Service oil.
 
They didn't have the right wrench to remove the filter housing and the cheapo wrench I had got from Volvo broke when they tried to use it. (Volvo had a better one but I got the cheaper one.) The quick lube staff had already drained the oil by the time it was clear that they couldn't get the filter housing off. They put the drain plug back in and I had them add their regular oil.
 
Then I went to Volvo dealer, bought the better wrench (they gave me credit for the broken one), went home, drove the front wheels on my too low but fail-safe solid wood, 35-year-old ramps. The filter came right off with the new wrench, but I could not get the drain plug off. It looked to me like it had been installed without the aluminum crush washer which I had supplied. I had only 12-sockets and rounded off the plug. Then I went back to Volvo in my wife's car and got a new plug and crush washer and advice. Volvo service said to use vice grips, if that failed it would have to be drilled and tapped.
 
But back at home, under the too low ramps, I could not get a good angle to apply force and just chewed up the plug with the visegrips. I stopped at this point. The car had fresh dino oil and a clean filter. I drove it that way for 3 or 4 kmi. During this time I worried that the steel plug had ruined the threads in the aluminum oil pan and researched systems for drilling and tapping to install a steel insert into aluminum.
 
Finally, I took it to a good independent Volvo shop where I could watch the work being done. I wanted to see how a competent worker did it. He tried a couple of different wrenches and neither worked. I thought the quick lube and I had really done some costly damage.
 
When the tech picked up an air chisel and aproached the plug I thought destruction and costly replacement was at hand. But he chiseled tangentially on the plug in the direction to rotate it counterclockwise and it loosened immediately. (As I had thought there was no crush washer.) And the threads were OK. The tech put it the new plug and washer I had gotten from Volvo, changed the filter, and put in my 6-qts of Mobile1.
 
Point being go to the dealer or other qualified service place for the warranty maintenance.
#2706 of 3707
how does the TDI do in the cold? by andyvmn
Mar 10, 2009 (8:29 am)
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I'm looking at an '06 Jetta TDI, only I have concerns about having a diesel in MN. My dad has put the fear of god in me about the fuel gelling. Has anyone had any trouble with starting their TDI in the Minnesota winters? I worry about the weeks we spend below zero. I don't have a garage, so my TDI would be parked outside in the cold.
 
I'm also open to any other suggestions/advice in buying the TDI.
#2707 of 3707
Re: how does the TDI do in the cold? [andyvmn] by driverbern
Mar 10, 2009 (12:37 pm)
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Replying to: andyvmn (Mar 10, 2009 8:29 am)

I'm in PA so it is not as cold but I've never had a problem. But . . . one thing that is a headache is defrosting the windshield. You can not start the car and leave it run - it will not defrost until you drive for a few minutes. In the mean time the windshield will frost over again even if you've scraped and/or sprayed with deicer. If it happens to rain and then freeze you have a real problem. It can take several minutes to chip thru the ice. I like my TDI and would by another but this is the one drawback.
#2708 of 3707
Re: how does the TDI do in the cold? [andyvmn] by bpeebles
Mar 10, 2009 (5:21 pm)
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Replying to: andyvmn (Mar 10, 2009 8:29 am)

No worries about Jelling if you put in an additive. PLUS, unlike gasoline-additives, using the correct diesel-conditioner can really be benifectial.
--The increased Cetaine quiets down the engine and gives you 2-4 more MPG.
--The lubricant protects your very expensive injection-pump
 
I always ALWAYS add about 6 oz of PowerService at every fillup (WHITE bottle in winter / GREY bottle in summer) All WallyMarts carry PowerService.
 
I have been driving in Vermont winters for 6 years with absolutely no jelling at all. You will have more issues with getting heat from the engin than from jellin.
 
Even if you chose to never add fuel-conditioner, your local fuel supplier adds kerosene to the diesel as the temps get colder. Also, the TDI is designed to heat the fuel as you drive so the fuel-filter is kept warm. Any paraffan in the fuel will melt and pass thru the filter.
 
If you are the nervous-type of person, just keep a spare fuel-filter in the trunk. Any jelling problems will be resolved by replacing filter.
 
You can also carry a bottle of DIESEL-911 in the trunk... guaranteed to instantly resolve any jellin.
 
Dont forget that jelling ONLY is a problem if enough paraffan particals build up on the fuel-filter to stop the flow of fuel... this is very VERY unlikely to happen.
 
Contray to what some folks may think... jelling DOES NOT affect starting the engine at all. Instead, a jelling problem will manifest itstelf by causing engine to stall out after driving for several miles.
#2709 of 3707
Re: how does the TDI do in the cold? [andyvmn] by siberia
Mar 10, 2009 (6:51 pm)
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Replying to: andyvmn (Mar 10, 2009 8:29 am)

The coldest I have started my '05 TDI is 2 F and it sprang to life on the first full compression stroke. You should research the camshaft issue on the PD engine and the special oil that is required to keep the cam alive. At the very least the valve cover should be pulled and the cam and lifters visually inspected before you buy. My brother's '06 started well at -10 F with no jelling in NE - he used an additive also.
#2710 of 3707
TDI plugged intake issues by longo2
Mar 12, 2009 (2:44 pm)
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I am wondering if the new 09' Jetta TDI's will have the same problem with carbon/gunk build up in the intake manifold and EGR system?
The 1.9 ltr TDI's could carbon up enough to eventually stop the engine, and the clean up process is expensive, dirty and doesn't really solve the problem.
I have heard that the new 2 ltr TDI engine is a complete re-design, so am curious if anyone has heard that the clogging up problems of the older engines has been resolved.

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