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Sedans Volkswagen Jetta VW Jetta TDI
3704 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 6:42 PM
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Replying to: Firebird_EOU (Feb 16, 2009 10:07 am) This is mostly due to a diesel having absolutely no ignition-system to deal with. (sparkplugs, wires, distributer...etc) Most of the other maintenance costs are about the same. ESPECIALLY since the newer gassers are now Synthetic oil. This makes these 2 engine-types the same in the way of lubrication cost. If I were asked to think of DIFFERENCES between Diesel and gasser in terms of PMs. I would have to say the FUEL FILTER on the diesel is larger. That is about it. Diesel = Larger fuel filter Gasser = Ignition system components to PM
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Replying to: c280 (Dec 16, 2008 1:42 pm) |
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Replying to: bpeebles (Feb 16, 2009 5:02 pm)  That said, I change all filters on my TDI on schedule. Brother's 06 TDI is gone now. He hit 2 deer at once - got the front, hood, both front doors, windshield, air-bags, and the top. One deer somehow swung around trying to go into the driver's side window. Front and side air-bages saved him from injury. He took the insurance money, bought a 09 CR Jetta and didn't look back. 
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Replying to: siberia (Feb 21, 2009 7:01 am)  More on the serious side, VW maintenance intervals can be much more extended if one knows what one should be doing, or looking for. So while part of it is: do not try this at home.... While under the warranty (which is meager anyway) by all means do what is necessary to comply with warranty requirements and IF it requires warranty there are no issues. After that you self warranty ANYWAY as they always remind you when you look for warranty service after the warranty service is OVER!!??.... So for 3 other examples (with yours counts 4) 1. air filter requirements actually have been shown to be mis-measured. I have literally almost doubled the interval and it actually filters better!? 2. My Japanese Civic has needed 3 alignments in the span of time the Jetta has needed NONE (79,000 miles vs 114,000 miles-GTG to 200,000 miles!!?? ) 3. oem to built for oem oil filters are actually specified for 30,000 mile intervals.
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Replying to: ruking1 (Feb 21, 2009 7:27 am) After I bought my TDI, I changed the oil and all the filters right away. Even though the car was nice and clean under the hood the air filter was bulged out in the middle and the fuel filter was corroded, looking like it had never been changed. Surprisingly, it ran fine and I couldn't tell any difference with the new filters. What really made the difference in how it runs was putting it on the highway for 12K miles. Runs like a different engine now. |
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Replying to: siberia (Feb 21, 2009 1:32 pm)
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Replying to: ruking1 (Feb 21, 2009 1:49 pm)
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Replying to: rrollntdi (Feb 26, 2009 9:07 am) |
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Replying to: rrollntdi (Feb 26, 2009 9:07 am) I used to do oil changes on my wife's 1996 Volvo wagon (and normally all our other cars), then when she got a 2004 Volvo V70 it had a new type oil filter with a replaceable inner element which I wasn't familiar with. When the 3 or 4 years of dealer free maintenance was over I took it to a quick lube place because I didn't want to pay the dealer price, the other place was closer, faster, cheaper, and I could observe the oil change. I used to take my 1991 Dodge to this quick place with no problem. I would give them a Mobile1 filter and the exact oil I wanted used. For this V70 I gave them a Volvo filter insert, O-ring seal, and 6 qts of Mobile1 10W-30 Extended Service oil. They didn't have the right wrench to remove the filter housing and the cheapo wrench I had got from Volvo broke when they tried to use it. (Volvo had a better one but I got the cheaper one.) The quick lube staff had already drained the oil by the time it was clear that they couldn't get the filter housing off. They put the drain plug back in and I had them add their regular oil. Then I went to Volvo dealer, bought the better wrench (they gave me credit for the broken one), went home, drove the front wheels on my too low but fail-safe solid wood, 35-year-old ramps. The filter came right off with the new wrench, but I could not get the drain plug off. It looked to me like it had been installed without the aluminum crush washer which I had supplied. I had only 12-sockets and rounded off the plug. Then I went back to Volvo in my wife's car and got a new plug and crush washer and advice. Volvo service said to use vice grips, if that failed it would have to be drilled and tapped. But back at home, under the too low ramps, I could not get a good angle to apply force and just chewed up the plug with the visegrips. I stopped at this point. The car had fresh dino oil and a clean filter. I drove it that way for 3 or 4 kmi. During this time I worried that the steel plug had ruined the threads in the aluminum oil pan and researched systems for drilling and tapping to install a steel insert into aluminum. Finally, I took it to a good independent Volvo shop where I could watch the work being done. I wanted to see how a competent worker did it. He tried a couple of different wrenches and neither worked. I thought the quick lube and I had really done some costly damage. When the tech picked up an air chisel and aproached the plug I thought destruction and costly replacement was at hand. But he chiseled tangentially on the plug in the direction to rotate it counterclockwise and it loosened immediately. (As I had thought there was no crush washer.) And the threads were OK. The tech put it the new plug and washer I had gotten from Volvo, changed the filter, and put in my 6-qts of Mobile1. Point being go to the dealer or other qualified service place for the warranty maintenance. |
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I'm looking at an '06 Jetta TDI, only I have concerns about having a diesel in MN. My dad has put the fear of god in me about the fuel gelling. Has anyone had any trouble with starting their TDI in the Minnesota winters? I worry about the weeks we spend below zero. I don't have a garage, so my TDI would be parked outside in the cold. I'm also open to any other suggestions/advice in buying the TDI. |
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