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VW Jetta TDI

3719 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 9:09 PM
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Replying to: shrifty (Dec 15, 2008 4:02 pm) I would just follow the next due oil change schedule AND make VERY sure they actually use the VW specified 507.00 (as per the owners manual) and not the stock barrel stuff, unless it happens to be VW 507.00 specified oil !!!!!
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Replying to: littlerhody (Dec 15, 2008 11:13 am) There is a big concern on this forum regarding the rear brakes on the Jettas in general. I don't think it's limited to the gasser only. One person on the forum suggested not using the hand brake. Regarding the AC: I get serious fogging up when it's cold in the morning (36 degrees) even with the AC on and the temperature set to 72 degrees. I noticed sometimes that if I don't turn on the AC/heat right after starting the car I encounter the terrible fogging up of the windows and windshield. I prefer to wait a few minutes after the engine is running before turning on the AC/heat but still no guarantee against the fogging up and when it fogs up it's hard to get rid of the fog(the moisture on the windows inside the car). I'm trying to figure out the correct tempearture setting to avoid the fogging.
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Replying to: c280 (Dec 15, 2008 4:15 pm)
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Replying to: altair4 (Dec 16, 2008 6:48 am)
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Replying to: ruking1 (Dec 15, 2008 4:07 pm) |
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Replying to: shrifty (Dec 15, 2008 4:05 pm) I got about 90,000 miles on my brakes. The pads were only about 1/2 warn down but the rotors were so badly rusted that I just replaced all 4 rotors and pads. (purchased "brake set" from www.tdi.com. For around $230 and an afternoon in the driveway, I ended up with all new brakes AND flushed the hydrolic systems ) Your milage may vary.... my driving-habits get up to 55MPG and I use the brakes as little as possible.
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Replying to: c280 (Dec 15, 2008 4:15 pm) Lets assume you do not have any water-leaks. To "fix" your problem... 1) Remove any "mats" from the floor. 2) Go for a drive with FULL HEAT and FULL FAN blowing on the carpets. 3) Keep that hot air blowing for at least an hour! 4) Even open the rear of the sunroof a bit to encourage the moist air to exit the cabin. 5) Once the interiour is "dry as a bone", reinstall the dried mats. To keep interiour dry, ALWAYS blow a lot of air thru the cabin. You may adjust the heat... but keep the air flowing. SURPRISE... the answer is AIRFLOW and not heat. You need force the moisture out of the cabin while it is a gas. Otherwise, when the interiour cools, it will re-condense on the windows over and over and over...all winter long. If you end up dragging some snow into the car during the winter, MAKE CERTAIN that you blow hot air at the floor until it is totally evaperated. Anytime I am going to be in the car for over an hour during the winter, I remove my parka and let the heat blow full force for most of my drive. I have not ever had any condensation problems. (except when the "recirculate" button gets hit accidently) I know of 2 instances where a sunroof was left open during a HEAVY rainstorm. Water came OUT when the door was opened. Uisng the above procedure dried the vehicle out completely. (Before mold set in!) |
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| Has anyone put body side molding on a 2009 TDI? I have not seen this offered as a factory option, but am interested in preventing other drivers from putting dents on my new vehicle. | |
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Replying to: redvw (Dec 17, 2008 8:01 am)
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Replying to: ruking1 (Dec 17, 2008 8:04 am) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That being the case should I skip this as a dealer add on? I often park in parking lots, and pick up door dings.
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