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VW Jetta TDI

3693 messages,  Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 9:03 AM

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What is this discussion about? Volkswagen Jetta, Biodiesel, Diesel, Sedan

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#2536 of 3693 Tires/Nokian by shrifty Nov 02, 2008 (7:53 am)
Thanks to all with comments regarding the tires, I will definately look into the Nokians (never heard of them before). My current tires seem ok in the snow (light snow so far), but I will have them replaced before the winter season begins.
#2537 of 3693 Re: TDI Clutch Wear [siberia] by tditoronto Nov 02, 2008 (9:35 am)
Replying to: siberia (Nov 02, 2008 7:36 am) They haven't taken the unit apart yet, and I would be reluctant to have that much labour cost put into it, unless I knew what the outcome was going to be. A knowledgeable mechanic told me after driving it at around 100,000 miles, that it would not make it to 120,000 miles without replacing the clutch. Here I am at 150,000 miles and it is only now starting to convince me. The clutch lost it's buttery smoothness probably at around 20,000 miles, but isn't that common. I mean, I've had 4 manual transmission cars in a row, and nothing quite matches that "New-Clutch" feeling. It doesn't last long though. Then again, I've only ever owned VWs, so I can't really speak for the clutches of other brands.   As for how it sounds / feels, it is restricted to feel...there are no related sounds. I'm easy on the clutch. I never ride it, and it is almost fully engaged before I start to push the accelerator. However, just recently, I'm noticing that as I'm starting to push the accelerator, the clutch is slipping. It shudders, but there is no sound. I can feel it through the pedal, through the seat of my pants. Another thing that it is starting to do occurs as I'm accelerating onto the highway from an onramp, usually in 3rd or 4th gear. It doesn't happen all the time, but there is a momentary lack of power, or so it seems. I've decided that either the clutch is slipping and allowing the engine to rev slightly without the related additional momentum that you would expect, OR the engine alone is experiencing power loss. Could the turbo be dieing? The dealer mistakenly diagnosed it as the cause of a noise at around 100,000 miles, so I ended up getting a new turbo under warranty. It only has 50,000 miles on it.   Too many of these things are happening within days of each other. The clutch is obviously wearing, so I'm reluctant to assume that the turbo could be going at exactly the same time. On top of it all, the coolant hoses split about a week ago, and within hours of that happening, the front suspension started creaking as if it had no lubricant on it. I assumed that maybe the leaking coolant disolved the lubricant on the suspension. The mechanic noticed my suspension bushings were worn, so they replaced those, along with the coolant hoses. Unfortunately, after a few hours of silent suspension, the creaking noise came back louder than ever.   If I fix all this stuff, I'm probably going to be $3,000 in the hole, and keeping the car for another 150,000 miles Replies to this message: siberia (Nov 04, 2008 7:02 pm)
#2538 of 3693 Re: VW Jetta TDI [chuckycheese] by jraguilar86 Nov 02, 2008 (2:03 pm)
Replying to: chuckycheese (Oct 25, 2007 3:48 pm) I don't know if anyone has told you this before but it seems like you had been using petroleum based diesel for a while. This type of diesel is dirty, specially in the US. What happens when you switch to bio-diesel is that the motor runs cleaner and supposedly even cleans any dirt particles left behind by the petroleum based diesel. What happens next is that the fuel filter gets clogged up from all the dirt that was cleaned by the bio-diesel. Try switching out the fuel filter. Maybe that will help you out. Still I don't think running anything higher than a B10 is good. VW says that B5 is fine and that they are experimenting with B20 but I really doubt B5 and B10 are all that different. Good luck and get back to me if you found a solution.
#2539 of 3693 Jetta TDI and the winter by redvw Nov 02, 2008 (4:28 pm)
Does a Jetta TDI need to be plugged into an electric source in the winter months(New York) if it is parked outside overnight? Replies to this message: bpeebles (Nov 02, 2008 6:57 pm)
#2540 of 3693 Re: Jetta TDI and the winter [redvw] by bpeebles Nov 02, 2008 (6:57 pm)
Replying to: redvw (Nov 02, 2008 4:28 pm) TDI does not need to be plugged in... but if you want heat inside the cabin within 10 miles, it sure helps.   An automatic xmission tends to generate more heat into the cooling system than a manual. (That is one reason automatic gets lower MPG). VW knew this and added electric heater for antifreeze when you have manual xmission.   For CERTAIN you should cover the radiator air inlet during the winter. Lengths of pre-slitted 1/2inch pipe insulation is PERFECT for this job.... just slips between the slats of the grille. When ambient temps go up, it can be easilly removed and tossed in trunk with spare tire.
#2541 of 3693 Jetta TDI Reliability by redvw Nov 03, 2008 (7:05 am)
I have owned 4 VW's, the last one was a Corrado. The Corrado and Rabbit GTI had reliability problems (electrical related). Four different VW dealers were not able to diagnose or repair the Corrado causing me to sell it with low mileage.   I am considering the purchase of a Jetta TDI next year, has VW reliability improved? Replies to this message: ruking1 (Nov 03, 2008 7:26 am) ruking1 (Nov 03, 2008 8:48 am) cosmo (Nov 03, 2008 8:22 am) sebring95 (Nov 03, 2008 1:22 pm)
#2542 of 3693 Re: Jetta TDI Reliability [redvw] by ruking1 Nov 03, 2008 (7:26 am)
Replying to: redvw (Nov 03, 2008 7:05 am) I would say yes and no. While I do not have any experience with the two that you have mentioned, (ok I had a 70 VW Beetle app 250,000 miles all but 10,000 put on by me, 78 Rabbit 95,000 miles, 03 Jetta TDI 110,000 miles) the latest 2009 incarnation Jetta TDI is a WAY better vehicle than the previous generations. What has not become real clear (by virtue of being BRAND new) are the 2009's quirks. (and ALL vehicles have them) Also, not many have the requisite 90,000 to 150,000 miles to talk about a significant cycle up to and past the first timing belt/wp change(120,000 miles I am told for the 09 model). At those levels, one can swag to the next TP/WP change.   Another is the so called definition of reliability. What does that REALLY mean?   As a comparison, I have the "highly reliable" Honda Civic (04) . Honda defines it SANS "consumables" Well, needing tires at 74,300 miles and three alignments the way the Civic does, does NOT count in the reliability measure, even as I am still running oem tires on the VW Jetta 110,000 miles and have not NEEDED any alignmenst. So at 300 per tire set and 90 per alignment, the Civic has cost me $ 570. MORE in operating costs. While this is factored in at the per mile driven cost. It clearly is NOT factored in the reliability measurement.   (As history I also had a 82 Honda Accord manual) Replies to this message: ruking1 (Nov 03, 2008 8:48 am)
#2543 of 3693 Re: Jetta TDI Reliability [redvw] by cosmo Nov 03, 2008 (8:22 am)
Replying to: redvw (Nov 03, 2008 7:05 am) We had one problem, an electric motor that controlled an air flap, on our 04 Passat TDI purchased in 07/04 that now has 50,000K miles on it. Not one single problem with our 06 Jetta TDI purchased in 05/06 that now has 30,000K miles on it.   By the way, based on our frustrating experience with an Audi and a nephew's similar experience with a Corrado, I suspicion your problem on the Corrado was the fuse panel.
#2544 of 3693 Re: Jetta TDI Reliability [ruking1] by ruking1 Nov 03, 2008 (8:48 am)
Replying to: ruking1 (Nov 03, 2008 7:26 am) While in theory the VAG.com, OBD port, aka onboard computer should be an almost direct pointer to monitored items AND cut down the common corrective action of "throwing parts the problem" : it does seem a lot of VW dealers continue to "throw parts the problem" !?
#2545 of 3693 Codes P1550 and P0101 by freeantelope Nov 03, 2008 (9:52 am)
I am having power loss on my 1999.5 Jetta TDI.   The whole story is important here probably. Head needed rebuilding, has new camshaft, timing belt, tensioners waterpump since it was all open. I also had the turbo actuator valve replaced (the bladder gizmo behind the engine). Right after that the turbo worked great, car ran like a dream for about a weak. I then noticed when the turbo would spool when at high RPMs that it would skip and then plop into limp mode. It has gotten progressively worse so that now it will drop off almost from the first acceleration in first gear. It will usually fix when the key is cycled.   when I run the codes I get P0101 an P1550 (regular handheld jobby), and under the the Vag-Com there are also codes for the rear ABS sensors.   So far to fix this issue I have replaced the Turbo Solenoid (up by the windshield with the hoses going to it), I have replaced the MAF....I have taken apart the hoses going to the air filter (all clear). I have visually inspected the vacuum hoses and though a little frayed don't see any breaks. The air filter is relatively new.   The connector plug (that plugs into the MAF) is a replacement plug so it leads me to believe someone looked at replacing that before I came onto the scene. I am thinking I should check to make sure that is wired well...but what else should I try. Any advice, happen to anyone else? I am reaching the end of my wits thinking about it....need some things to check so I feel like I am sniffing out the problem....give me your best shot!   Jason WVO 2001 jetta TDI GLS auto 1999.5 Jetta TDI GL

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