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VW Jetta TDI

3686 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 8:15 AM

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What is this discussion about? Volkswagen Jetta, Biodiesel, Diesel, Sedan


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#2533 of 3686
Re: TDI Clutch Wear [tditoronto] by bpeebles
Oct 31, 2008 (3:22 pm)
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Replying to: tditoronto (Oct 29, 2008 8:48 pm)

You did not say under what conditions your clutch is "chattering" thus given the vague description, there is not very much a competent mechanic can tell you about your situation.
 
If you need to know the price to replace clutch ... CALL SEVERAL SHOPS and ask for estamates. This is such a rare occourance on VWs that you may not get much from asking on the internet.
 
A properly-treated clutch on a TDI should last for over 200K miles. Heck - one does not even need to touch the throttle when starting off from a dead stop.
 
As for your xmission, I can tell you that a VW manual xmission can EASILLY go over 200,000 miles. There should be no need to do anything but replace the synthetic fluid in the xmission with ONLY factory-recommended . (or RedLine MTL). I have never even HEARD of a VW xmission wearing out. (And I have owned many VWs over the years.)
#2534 of 3686
Delivery delay for TDI Sportswagen [bpeebles] by mariobgoode
Nov 01, 2008 (6:36 am)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Oct 28, 2008 6:04 pm)

I will follow your advice and visit the dealer two weeks from today. That will give him time to get me details like VIN, if indeed it is in production. My understanding is he put in a search for the cars in production and scheduled for delivery since July, and sent in my order, but nothing has emerged so far, so I was their first custom order that is coming to their dealership. I'll make a point of checking the delivery schedule, as you wisely suggested. The rebate is only good until Dec 31, so if my car doesn't come in by then, I'll just give up and go get an Audi TDI which is coming next year. Keeping my fingers crossed.
#2535 of 3686
Re: TDI Clutch Wear [bpeebles] by siberia
Nov 02, 2008 (7:36 am)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Oct 31, 2008 3:22 pm)

Noisy dual-mass flywheel? Oil on clutch plate/disk causing judder? Only during engagement? At idle in neutral? Clutch in - clutch almost out - clutch out? Even incompetent mechanics need info.
 
Manual transmissions usually give warning signs (except under abuse) long before they fail completely. I drove a manual transmission over 30,000 miles with a bad input shaft bearing once before I got tired of the noise and replaced it.
#2536 of 3686
Tires/Nokian by shrifty
Nov 02, 2008 (7:53 am)
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Thanks to all with comments regarding the tires, I will definately look into the Nokians (never heard of them before). My current tires seem ok in the snow (light snow so far), but I will have them replaced before the winter season begins.
#2537 of 3686
Re: TDI Clutch Wear [siberia] by tditoronto
Nov 02, 2008 (9:35 am)
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Replying to: siberia (Nov 02, 2008 7:36 am)

They haven't taken the unit apart yet, and I would be reluctant to have that much labour cost put into it, unless I knew what the outcome was going to be. A knowledgeable mechanic told me after driving it at around 100,000 miles, that it would not make it to 120,000 miles without replacing the clutch. Here I am at 150,000 miles and it is only now starting to convince me. The clutch lost it's buttery smoothness probably at around 20,000 miles, but isn't that common. I mean, I've had 4 manual transmission cars in a row, and nothing quite matches that "New-Clutch" feeling. It doesn't last long though. Then again, I've only ever owned VWs, so I can't really speak for the clutches of other brands.
 
As for how it sounds / feels, it is restricted to feel...there are no related sounds. I'm easy on the clutch. I never ride it, and it is almost fully engaged before I start to push the accelerator. However, just recently, I'm noticing that as I'm starting to push the accelerator, the clutch is slipping. It shudders, but there is no sound. I can feel it through the pedal, through the seat of my pants. Another thing that it is starting to do occurs as I'm accelerating onto the highway from an onramp, usually in 3rd or 4th gear. It doesn't happen all the time, but there is a momentary lack of power, or so it seems. I've decided that either the clutch is slipping and allowing the engine to rev slightly without the related additional momentum that you would expect, OR the engine alone is experiencing power loss. Could the turbo be dieing? The dealer mistakenly diagnosed it as the cause of a noise at around 100,000 miles, so I ended up getting a new turbo under warranty. It only has 50,000 miles on it.
 
Too many of these things are happening within days of each other. The clutch is obviously wearing, so I'm reluctant to assume that the turbo could be going at exactly the same time. On top of it all, the coolant hoses split about a week ago, and within hours of that happening, the front suspension started creaking as if it had no lubricant on it. I assumed that maybe the leaking coolant disolved the lubricant on the suspension. The mechanic noticed my suspension bushings were worn, so they replaced those, along with the coolant hoses. Unfortunately, after a few hours of silent suspension, the creaking noise came back louder than ever.
 
If I fix all this stuff, I'm probably going to be $3,000 in the hole, and keeping the car for another 150,000 miles
#2538 of 3686
Re: VW Jetta TDI [chuckycheese] by jraguilar86
Nov 02, 2008 (2:03 pm)
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Replying to: chuckycheese (Oct 25, 2007 3:48 pm)

I don't know if anyone has told you this before but it seems like you had been using petroleum based diesel for a while. This type of diesel is dirty, specially in the US. What happens when you switch to bio-diesel is that the motor runs cleaner and supposedly even cleans any dirt particles left behind by the petroleum based diesel. What happens next is that the fuel filter gets clogged up from all the dirt that was cleaned by the bio-diesel. Try switching out the fuel filter. Maybe that will help you out. Still I don't think running anything higher than a B10 is good. VW says that B5 is fine and that they are experimenting with B20 but I really doubt B5 and B10 are all that different. Good luck and get back to me if you found a solution.
#2539 of 3686
Jetta TDI and the winter by redvw
Nov 02, 2008 (4:28 pm)
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Does a Jetta TDI need to be plugged into an electric source in the winter months(New York) if it is parked outside overnight?
#2540 of 3686
Re: Jetta TDI and the winter [redvw] by bpeebles
Nov 02, 2008 (6:57 pm)
Reply

Replying to: redvw (Nov 02, 2008 4:28 pm)

TDI does not need to be plugged in... but if you want heat inside the cabin within 10 miles, it sure helps.
 
An automatic xmission tends to generate more heat into the cooling system than a manual. (That is one reason automatic gets lower MPG). VW knew this and added electric heater for antifreeze when you have manual xmission.
 
For CERTAIN you should cover the radiator air inlet during the winter. Lengths of pre-slitted 1/2inch pipe insulation is PERFECT for this job.... just slips between the slats of the grille. When ambient temps go up, it can be easilly removed and tossed in trunk with spare tire.
#2541 of 3686
Jetta TDI Reliability by redvw
Nov 03, 2008 (7:05 am)
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I have owned 4 VW's, the last one was a Corrado. The Corrado and Rabbit GTI had reliability problems (electrical related). Four different VW dealers were not able to diagnose or repair the Corrado causing me to sell it with low mileage.
 
I am considering the purchase of a Jetta TDI next year, has VW reliability improved?
#2542 of 3686
Re: Jetta TDI Reliability [redvw] by ruking1
Nov 03, 2008 (7:26 am)
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Replying to: redvw (Nov 03, 2008 7:05 am)

I would say yes and no. While I do not have any experience with the two that you have mentioned, (ok I had a 70 VW Beetle app 250,000 miles all but 10,000 put on by me, 78 Rabbit 95,000 miles, 03 Jetta TDI 110,000 miles) the latest 2009 incarnation Jetta TDI is a WAY better vehicle than the previous generations. What has not become real clear (by virtue of being BRAND new) are the 2009's quirks. (and ALL vehicles have them) Also, not many have the requisite 90,000 to 150,000 miles to talk about a significant cycle up to and past the first timing belt/wp change(120,000 miles I am told for the 09 model). At those levels, one can swag to the next TP/WP change.
 
Another is the so called definition of reliability. What does that REALLY mean?
 
As a comparison, I have the "highly reliable" Honda Civic (04) . Honda defines it SANS "consumables" Well, needing tires at 74,300 miles and three alignments the way the Civic does, does NOT count in the reliability measure, even as I am still running oem tires on the VW Jetta 110,000 miles and have not NEEDED any alignmenst. So at 300 per tire set and 90 per alignment, the Civic has cost me $ 570. MORE in operating costs. While this is factored in at the per mile driven cost. It clearly is NOT factored in the reliability measurement.
 
(As history I also had a 82 Honda Accord manual)

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