- #2521 of 3564
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Re: OEM Tires [elias]
by sebring95
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Oct 29, 2008 (9:11 am)
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Replying to: elias (Oct 29, 2008 8:00 am)
You might also consider Nokian WR's if you're not getting into really major snow. They have much better dry handling and will last longer. I ran the Nokians on my Jetta and don't think I would have been happy with the dry handling of the blizzaks. I ran them before and on a warm winter day they were too loose for my goose.
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- #2522 of 3564
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Re: OEM Tires [sebring95]
by altair4
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Oct 29, 2008 (9:53 am)
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Replying to: sebring95 (Oct 29, 2008 9:11 am)
Here's another vote for the Nokian WR series (WR and WRG2). Severe Weather certified with the mountain/snowflake symbol and yet they carry a UTQG rating, too, unlike some winter tires. Snowy and Dry road handing is good. Wet road handing is fantastic.
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- #2523 of 3564
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Re: 2009 Jetta TDI - Factory Timing Belt Replacement Recommendation Is? [shrifty]
by asa
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Oct 29, 2008 (2:58 pm)
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Replying to: shrifty (Oct 28, 2008 6:11 pm)
bpeebles, I think you're correct that the '09 TDI Jetta uses a timing belt because I read an article somewhere that said they used a belt to help subdue any hint of noise that a chain might produce. VW wanted to make the TDI as quiet as possible, hence the belt.
(I ordered my '06 NIssan Frontier with specific features, just like your Dodge. My truck arrived in six weeks, made in Smyrna, TN.)
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- #2524 of 3564
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Re: 2009 Jetta TDI - Factory Timing Belt Replacement Recommendation Is? [asa]
by ruking1
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Oct 29, 2008 (3:31 pm)
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Replying to: asa (Oct 29, 2008 2:58 pm)
There is also a more arcane discussion about the advantages of a belt over chain. MB 320/350 turbo diesels (not sure what they currently call them) do run the timing CHAIN. The upshot (again depending one ones mileage horizon): the question is really of WHEN you replace either and NOT, IF. The second salient point is when you do, the chain costs (much) more. If it breaks before you do, ( because of a mistaken notion chains do not have to be changed) ... ah...... we are talking thousands in damage. A tertiary issue: what changes have/will be made to water pumps to extend their replacement schedules.
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- #2525 of 3564
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Re: 2009 Jetta TDI - Factory Timing Belt Replacement Recommendation Is? [shrifty]
by bobgwtw
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Oct 29, 2008 (4:30 pm)
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Replying to: shrifty (Oct 28, 2008 6:11 pm)
Service Mgr. at Wray VW in Columbia, SC says the TDI still uses a timing belt. Big mistake not going to a chain llike they did on the redesigned 2.0 turbo gasser.
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- #2526 of 3564
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Re: OEM Tires [altair4]
by bpeebles
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Oct 29, 2008 (6:30 pm)
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Replying to: altair4 (Oct 29, 2008 9:53 am)
I just replaced 4 Nokian WR (went over 60K miles) with a new set of WR G2 (generation2 of the WR)
Here are a couple websites for NOKIAN
http://www.nokiantyres.com/
http://www.nokiantires.com/
Since I have well over 60K miles of experience with the WR... here are my comments.
*)The original WRs lived up to their claim as ALL WEATHER tires. They went thru many Vermont winters and only got stuck when the bumper was pushing snow!
*)The rolling resistance is low.. (I averaged 50 MPG)
*) They became NOISY as they wore.
The new ones (WR G2) are significantly quieter than the original WRs.... I have less than 100 miles on them so no further comments about the G2.
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- #2527 of 3564
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TDI Clutch Wear
by tditoronto
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Oct 29, 2008 (8:48 pm)
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I have a 2004 Jetta TDI with approximately 150,000 miles on it. The clutch just started to chatter the other day, and I'm wondering if this would be considered premature wear? Has anyone else had similar mileage before replacing a TDI clutch? If replaced, how much was replaced? Everything including the flywheel?
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- #2528 of 3564
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Re: TDI Clutch Wear [tditoronto]
by gagrice
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Oct 30, 2008 (4:23 am)
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Replying to: tditoronto (Oct 29, 2008 8:48 pm)
A 150,000 miles sounds pretty good to me. My 1994 Toyota PU only got 11,000 miles before needing a new clutch. It was driven by my son whom I would assume was not easy on it. In 1995 it cost me $900 to have replaced at the Toyota dealer.
Have you had any other trouble with your TDI?
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- #2529 of 3564
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Re: TDI Clutch Wear [tditoronto]
by malmouza
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Oct 30, 2008 (4:42 am)
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Replying to: tditoronto (Oct 29, 2008 8:48 pm)
I am afraid to let you know the bill will be high. It is normal for any car to have the transmission start failing after 130,000 miles. For cars located in urban area with a lot of traffic the transmission has tendency to break a lot sooner than cars driven in rural area. The car transmission in stop and go traffic has tendency to heat up faster, and by consequence the oil breakup occurs leading to higher friction, and damage to the gears. The best protection you can do to avoid this premature transmission damage is to change the transmission oil every 15,000 miles. You’ll be amazed how dirty that oil is after only 15,000 miles. This also depend on the driving style, aggressive driving versus civilized driving. My advice to you in order to save money, you’ll be better if you find a used transmission with low mileage from junk yard, some cars that have been in an accident, rear crash have the engine and transmission still new, you can buy that transmission and give it to your mechanic to swap the old one for the new one. The cost of labor will be a lot less than changing the clutch and later after couple hundred miles you’ll find out that the gear also are failing. Good luck.
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- #2530 of 3564
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Re: TDI Clutch Wear [tditoronto]
by ruking1
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Oct 30, 2008 (5:17 am)
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Replying to: tditoronto (Oct 29, 2008 8:48 pm)
Clutch chatter CAN be a signal. I look for that, plus clutch slipping. There truly is/can be a wide range in how many miles one gets out of a clutch. Barring manufacuturing defects, most of it is how a person drives and of course drives, given the conditions. My goal is 400,000 to 450,000 miles, but I do regularly drive the streets of San Francisco,... so of course, we shall see. I am currently at 110,000 miles.The car has also spend rush hour time in downtown Los Angeles, Oakland, San Diego, Portland, Seattle, New Orleans, Tampa, Miami, San Antonio, Dallas, Las Vegas, Santa Fe, Phoenix, Vancouver, BC.
The last clutch job that I watched, the guy had 230,000 miles and had done a host of things to his car, suspension upgrades: struts, shocks, springs, front and rear sway bars, lower profile tires, expensive rims, chipped, two upgrades of nozzles.... I am probably leaving a bunch of key things out. If he was not approaching 275# ft (from 155 # ft) I would be surprised. The bottom line is we were standing there and he asked me if he should do the clutch (as he had the V6 upgrade at home). I had ridden with him and got a sense of how he drove and treated the car and told him flat no. Wait till he got clutch chatter/slipping and or both.(It should be fairly obvious just his power options seriously out powered his clutch) However I also said to him that if the clutch is pulled to check the condition, it was actually then marginally to way (depending on condition of course) cost effective to put in the NEW one. Curiosity I think got the better of him and he went back home to get the upgrade. When the clutch was pulled, it easily could have gone another 200,000 miles (430,000 total) . We just busted up at the projection and scenario we had discussed before the dismantling. The guru who was doing the job concurred. So the clutch (upgrade) was installed. He was a happy camper before, but I think because he could NOW use his power upgrades with more abandon, a happier camper AFTER.
To answer your question, you really have a couple of choices. The best would be to get on www.tdiclub.com. A vendor I trust is Bleachedbora who sells clutchs/flywheel/throwout bearings. Email him if you have questions. An upgrade (V6) is at $375. shipped. Look to get the service (clutch job) at a local GTG. We are talking less than $725. all tolled.
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