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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Saab 9-3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience
653 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 7:04 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: lee_w (Jun 03, 2004 4:21 am) In my opinion, the GM supplier discount is not really a discount. When you think about it, anyone off the street could walk in and negotiate that price. Basically what it does is prevent the consumer from further negotiating on the car. Do you guys think 29,712 is a good price in Indiana or should I hold out and try to get more knocked off? Any opinions would be appreciated.
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Replying to: dorbeas (Aug 23, 2004 11:28 am) Every situation is different, but I would try to get that sucker as low as possible. It never hurts to try, and you have nothing to lose, only to gain. I just got (2 weeks ago) a *new* 2003 9-5 Aero (leftover and purchased by the dealer from Saab) loaded with everything you can think of except the venilated seats for $27,500. They originally were asking $32k+ for it. They came down to $29,900 and at that price it is still a pretty damn good bargain, but I counter-offered with a ridiculous amount of $24,500, in which they said "sorry". I then made them an offer of $27k even and they said they would split the difference between that and the 29,900, so they offered $28,490 (approx.) I could have taken the car then but I knew I there may be still room to work with, so I talked to the manager directly and said that I was ready to buy TODAY but I will not pay more than $27,500 for the car. He said he'd get back to me, which he did in a few hours. They went for it - and I have been a happy camper ever since. I guess the moral of the story is if you are really serious about buying that car, you should tell them that you are ready NOW but they have to meet *your* price. Tell them that you can only spend "X" amount and that is all you can afford. What should your price be? That is up to you, but I would try to get that car as close to about $28k or so as I could. Maybe you want to go lower.....that is up to you. This approach may work or it may not, but worst case scenario is that you can still purchase the car at $29,700. Bottom line is that every $1000 you save = a huge difference in your monthly car payment. I was seriously considering the '04 TL which is not to be had for under $30k, and the difference I saved by getting the Aero makes a huge difference in my monthly payments. Plus, I am happier than a pig in s*** with my new Saab! I don't regret not buying the TL for one moment. Anyway, good luck and let us know how it goes. |
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Have never purchased a used car before and my head is spinning. KBB for the car is $20,730. Edmunds is $18,287 for this area. Dealer is asking $21,500. The car is "certified"--not sure what that means ---dealer claims I need to add $1,500 to any price I see. Car has 40,500 miles on it. I'm thinking I should look for a newer car. Also hear a funny sound when turning the steering wheel--dealer claims it is covered under the certified warranty--although sticker on car says "As Is".....looking to buy in next 48 hours. Any help appreciated.
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Replying to: carly (Sep 08, 2004 9:46 am) If the car already has 40+K miles, that means it is almost out of the original warranty. The extended warranty, offered on certified Saabs, you have to review the fine print, to see what it really covers. I have a '98 Saab 900s. I'm at the dealer nearly every other week, or month with problems, after it ran out the warranty. I bought an extended warranty for $2000, and let me tell you that it hardly covers anything. Any wear and tear items are not covered under the extension. So, now a light came on, and the dealer claims that I need a new catalytic converter for $2000. Warranty people refused the claim, saying it doesn't cover exhaust. Major service is $600. If you hear something, as you test drive, then find another car. If you really, really want the car, trying insisting to the saleperson to have them fix it before putting down a dime, or dollar down. Ask him for a CarFax report too. Keep in mind, they will probably give you the run-around. That happened to me when I was considering a 2003 4matic Mercedes wagon as a replacement. I heard some problems in the test drive, and discovered pre-owned cars weren't being fixed at this dealership before sale. I asked the salesperson if he would repair it. No, he said. Only if there was a deposit, would he have it serviced He called me several times to follow up, and ask about my interest in it, but still refused to have any servicing done on it, until I put money down. Given that I don't need any more aggravation with a car, I wasn't about to tempt fate. No repair before purchase, move on! The Saabs can have multiple problems, and for the price of that car, you can get a new 9-2x, a Mazda, etc. There's many cars in that price range, new! If you're dying for a Saab, call other dealers to see what other used cars that they have in stock. You can also run searches for pre-owned through Edmunds.com. Sounds like you need to run from this deal. I've found Saab service to be usually pretty crummy. The dealer does almost anything to welch out of warranty repairs, blame the owner so you pay the costs directly, or make you wait for days to get into service. This goes for the extended warranty people, too. After the original warranty expires, I really don't know if you will get the roadside assistance. Hope that helps. Good luck!
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Replying to: cargal2 (Sep 09, 2004 2:22 pm) |
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9-2X ? I am still thinking a WRX makes more sense. If I were you, I would buy a Certified Saab (it is worth). One thing to keep in mind: Once you own a Saab, it is quiet difficult to get out from it unless your car has a lot problems...People who test drive a Saab usually buy one...I can't get out from it. The driving experience is quiet good and unique (not racing, just enjoy driving the car). I want to sit in my car all the time. |
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Replying to: dorbeas (Aug 23, 2004 11:28 am) In evaluating the model you hope to purchase, this price seems good |
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Hello, I am looking to purchase a used saab 9 3 convert. a 1999 or 2000, I have driven a couple and one I heard noises in the front end (no thanks!) and the other they were literally asking me to GIVE them my trade-in (laughed and walked out)... I am going again today to look at another 1999 saab with 57,000 miles on it and all the options I would like - anything I should keep an eye out for ? They have it priced in the 13,000 range which I don't think is unreasonable, but my trade in (according to NADA.com)is worth 11,000, even if they gave me 10,000 or 9500 I would talk but so far they have come up with 8000 ... any ideas or help would be appreaciated ! Thanks, Jenn
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Replying to: jenreb1 (Sep 24, 2004 7:21 am) Check to see if the car doesn't smoke when accelerating, a sign the turbo is on its way out. Check to for any clunking noise when shifting in/out of reverse or 1st gear: it could be a bad motor mount (they are expensive to replace). If you get a 9-3, make sure you use a high quality full synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 and have the spark plugs replaced at 20K at most Saabs have a patented knock detection through spark plugs, only the right specs NGK spark plugs gapped correctly need to be used (check the owner manual for more info) |
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Paid MSRP-$5,300 at Paul Miller SAAB, NJ. for 2004 Saab 9-3 linear.
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