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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair - READ ONLY

449 messages,  Last post on Apr 14, 2008 at 11:01 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet R/V 2500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 10 Series, Chevrolet R/V 3500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 20 Series, Chevrolet C/K 30 Series, Chevrolet C/K 2500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 1500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 3500 Series, Truck


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#410 of 449
90 Chev truck squeaks cyclically, L side by blissful
Aug 21, 2007 (9:39 pm)
Any ideas? Truck runs great, but whenever I drive, there is a cyclical-sounding squeaking that I hear on the left side. It does not appear to be related to the engine per se, and almost sounds as if it is a wheel bearing or something, but if it is, I'd think that the wheel would have collapsed long ago! Of course, I have only put about 2000 miles on the truck in 5 years- mostly it is used to haul stuff.
 
Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions re: diagnosing and fixing this!
 
#411 of 449
Re: 90 Chev truck squeaks cyclically, L side [blissful] by xwesx
Aug 22, 2007 (10:20 am)

Replying to: blissful (Aug 21, 2007 9:39 pm)

You are probably on the right track with this. Even with light use, the grease will continue to age and lose effectiveness. If it is only a squeak you hear and not a grinding sound, it may be that the bearings only need to be repacked. Before you take the wheels off, drive around a bit (assuming you fix the previous problem!) and drag your brakes to scour the disc surfaces. Once the wheels are off, clean up your disc brakes with some cleaner and see if that helps as well. If the truck is stored outside, you may be getting some corrosion on the disc surfaces.
 
Even with those low miles, have you kept the joints (tie rods, control arm bushings, etc) lubed regularly?
#412 of 449
Re: '90 Chev 3/4T clutch failure [blissful] by xwesx
Aug 22, 2007 (10:26 am)

Replying to: blissful (Aug 21, 2007 9:36 pm)

Now, I am not real sure about this because I have not had many clutch problems (and none with vehicles even remotely as new as a '90). But, since it happened soon after a drive, perhaps your throwout bearing is seized up. If there is much play in the linkages, you may be able to push the clutch pedal down anyway, but the forks are not moving the bearing which, in turn, is not disengaging the transmission. If that is the problem, it will require the transmission be dropped to access and replace the clutch, etc. I would get more input on this one before proceeding with that, though.
 
As for the no-start, check your battery cables, solenoid, and cable to the starter to make sure none are corroded or have slightly loose connections. This can easily result in a periodic and "random" no start.
#413 of 449
Re: '90 Chev 3/4T clutch failure [xwesx] by blissful
Aug 22, 2007 (1:50 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Aug 22, 2007 10:26 am)

Thank you for both of those helpful recommendations! I really appreciate your quick response! Hmmm- What causes throw out bearings to seize? Inadequate lubrication? age? heat?
I have to say there wasn't a lot of shifting going on during the drive- mostly freeway/highway, although that may be neither here nor there. The truck does have about 270K miles on it, and while the engine has been rebuilt, I do not know about the tranny in its former life. Clutch has always felt solid, though- no hint of problem. Your assessment may be right on- the clutch feels as if there is a little less resistance than formerly, but nothing like blocked hydraulics, which would feel hard.
 
I guess I'm pretty much trying to decide whether to have it towed somewhere to get fixed, or if there is anything else I can do to deduce the true nature of the problem. I like to be pretty sure of the issue before presenting to the mechanic- forewarned is forearmed, as they say!
 
Is it possible that whacking on the tranny case with a hammer might release the throwout bearing, now that it has cooled down? that would be by way of diagnosis, of course, not the permanent solution!
 
Cheers!
J
#414 of 449
Re: '90 Chev 3/4T clutch failure [blissful] by xwesx
Aug 22, 2007 (3:39 pm)

Replying to: blissful (Aug 22, 2007 1:50 pm)

Normally there is an access cover on the bottom of the transmission's bell housing. You might be able to shine a light in there and see the components to note if anything is obviously wrong. If the bearing is seized, you should definitely see it. Heat would cause the seizure, and the excess heat likely due to some sort of failure in the bearing such as wear. It would normally "warn" you first though. So, if there was no whining noises, rattly sounds, etc., coming from the vehicle that disappeared with a press of the clutch, it may not be the bearing. It could also be a bent shift fork or some other problem, though.
 
The only time I had experience with this is when I helped a friend install a Chevy 305 in a '55 Willy's wagon. The truck still had the original transmission, and we used an adapter to mate the tranny to the engine. The company that machined the adapter was off just a tiny bit on the specs. As a result, the alignment was a bit off on the transmission shaft, even though it was close enough for government work. Well, just like gov't work, the bearing took extra heat due to the misalignment and eventually the aluminum bearing transferred material to the tranny shaft and froze up. Not good for his truck. It was not a happy evening when we tore it apart again and then put it together a second time. Happily, the adapter manufacturer provided the replacement part free of charge. They did not pay for our wasted hours, though, or for my ears after listening to my friend vent his frustration every 5-10 minutes.
 
As for taking it to a mechanic, if you have a place close by, you should be able to get the truck started in 1st gear (I know my '69 Chevy will start in 1st or 2nd, no clutch needed!). You can lurch it out of the driveway in reverse just by using the starter, then limp your way to the shop. I suppose AAA would come in handy as well.
 
Hopefully someone else will chime in with a suggestion as to the nature of your problem. Folks do respond here, but it tends to be sporadic as this particular topic is only sparsely visited. You can try other topics within the Chevy Pickups forum, though. Oddly, this is the only topic I frequent as almost none of the topics come close to my antique truck.
#415 of 449
Re: '90 Chev 3/4T clutch failure [xwesx] by blissful
Aug 22, 2007 (9:18 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Aug 22, 2007 3:39 pm)

I'll have a look underneath again on the weekend. Fortunately, I backed it in to the driveway, and it will indeed start up in 2nd, so I could try crashboxing it down the road
 
At least I feel I have a starting off point. I'm also thinking I'll head down to the local repository of auto manuals and see if I can get a visual on the clutch linkage so that I understand better where the other possibilities you mentioned lie.
 
This truck has been so good that it WILL be fixed! Thanks again!!!
 
J
#416 of 449
4 wheel drive indicator light by flh69
Aug 28, 2007 (6:35 am)
I have a 1990 K2500 Chevy pickup. I installed a 4x4 Posi-Lock when the original locking device went bad several years ago. Just recently my light came on indicating the axles were locked but I did not have the Posi-Lock engaged. I checked the wires and can find nothing wrong. Is there a switch somewhere that may be malfunctioning? The Posi-Lock is working ok it’s just that the light stays on all of the time.
#417 of 449
Re: 98 Silverado 5.7 1500 [xwesx] by mworkman
Sep 03, 2007 (4:26 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Jun 11, 2007 5:13 pm)

Problem solved....dogear was broken off on the distributor cap and water was getting in the distributor. Had to change the distributor, oil,radiator fluids and gasket. wow...not cheap.
#419 of 449
C10 Silverado no power to ignition. by naturbnklr
Sep 18, 2007 (12:53 pm)
Daily driver/work truck turned key no lights buzzers fan nothing. Horn and headlights fine. Checked Battery with digital diagnostic 100% 13.5V. Replaced ignition switch, neutral safety switch, have power to starter, solenoid pulls when jumpered, starter engages, engine turns (strong) where do I go from here

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