Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair - READ ONLY

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet R/V 2500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 10 Series, Chevrolet R/V 3500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 20 Series, Chevrolet C/K 30 Series, Chevrolet C/K 2500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 1500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 3500 Series, Truck

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#405 of 449 truck 5.7 vortec runing ruff around 1800 to 2600 rpm by jetdog1985 Aug 01, 2007 (4:19 pm)
my truck is a 1998 3500 5.7 vortec and at a certian rpm range the truck sputers while driving. checked all plugs and wires all good and new i am lost and it will not kick a light on. i need help!!!!!
#406 of 449 Re: Engine Swap [tburr] by 04cobra1 Aug 06, 2007 (8:24 pm)
Replying to: tburr (Mar 21, 2005 12:41 pm) I have a '91 Silverado and I want to put a 5.3L out of a '00 Silverado into it. My question is will the motor mounts match up or do they need fabricating?
#407 of 449 O2 CHEVY HD RUNS ROUGH IN PARK by brownbm Aug 14, 2007 (6:07 am)
I have installed a K&N cold air intake to my chevy about a week ago, everything was fine, then I installed a throttle body spacer a couple of days ago, now when i put it in park and it is idleing it runs rough almost missing, what can I do? would it help to adjust the throttle cable?? it is a little loose where as before the spacer it was tight. the engine size is a 6.0, Replies to this message: 0patience (Aug 14, 2007 5:29 pm)
#408 of 449 Re: O2 CHEVY HD RUNS ROUGH IN PARK [brownbm] by 0patience Aug 14, 2007 (5:29 pm)
Replying to: brownbm (Aug 14, 2007 6:07 am) Take the spacer out and put it back the way it was. What could possibly possess you to put a spacer in? What did you think it was gonna gain you? Today's vehicles get really irritated when you go mucking around with them. So much that the computer starts to have fits. The throttle cable has nothing to do with the idle. That is controlled by the computer. You have messed with the air intake and changed what the computer is reading.
#409 of 449 '90 Chev 3/4T clutch failure by blissful Aug 21, 2007 (10:36 pm)
Have a high mileage '90 LB PU that is used lightly now. Just back from camping trip at Mt. Hood this last weekend. Parked in drive, then went to move it again within 30 minutes and could not get clutch to engage. Clutch pedal does go to floor, but if I try to move the shifter, it just grinds, no matter what gear. If I stop the engine, put the shifter in gear, then start it up, it lurches forward, even though clutch is depressed. There is a clutch cyl, and I cannot determine exactly what kind of linkage goes from pedal to clutch cyl. Can this be adjusted? There is still proper amt of fluid in reservoir. Previously, and intermittently, there has been a failure to start which MAY have been related (i.e. the engine won't turn over if the clutch is not fully depressed; sometimes, even if the clutch IS fully depressed, it won't start, but the "fix" seems to be to open the hood and slam it shut again, suggesting that SOMETHING, SOMEWHERE is loose, or just on the verge of not being quite right.) Suggestions as to cause of problem? Is this something I can repair myself, or does it require special tools, lots of strength, or lots of time? Thanks! Replies to this message: xwesx (Aug 22, 2007 11:26 am) blissful (Aug 22, 2007 2:50 pm) xwesx (Aug 22, 2007 4:39 pm) and 1 more...
#410 of 449 90 Chev truck squeaks cyclically, L side by blissful Aug 21, 2007 (10:39 pm)
Any ideas? Truck runs great, but whenever I drive, there is a cyclical-sounding squeaking that I hear on the left side. It does not appear to be related to the engine per se, and almost sounds as if it is a wheel bearing or something, but if it is, I'd think that the wheel would have collapsed long ago! Of course, I have only put about 2000 miles on the truck in 5 years- mostly it is used to haul stuff. Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions re: diagnosing and fixing this! Replies to this message: xwesx (Aug 22, 2007 11:20 am)
#411 of 449 Re: 90 Chev truck squeaks cyclically, L side [blissful] by xwesx Aug 22, 2007 (11:20 am)
Replying to: blissful (Aug 21, 2007 10:39 pm) You are probably on the right track with this. Even with light use, the grease will continue to age and lose effectiveness. If it is only a squeak you hear and not a grinding sound, it may be that the bearings only need to be repacked. Before you take the wheels off, drive around a bit (assuming you fix the previous problem!) and drag your brakes to scour the disc surfaces. Once the wheels are off, clean up your disc brakes with some cleaner and see if that helps as well. If the truck is stored outside, you may be getting some corrosion on the disc surfaces. Even with those low miles, have you kept the joints (tie rods, control arm bushings, etc) lubed regularly?
#412 of 449 Re: '90 Chev 3/4T clutch failure [blissful] by xwesx Aug 22, 2007 (11:26 am)
Replying to: blissful (Aug 21, 2007 10:36 pm) Now, I am not real sure about this because I have not had many clutch problems (and none with vehicles even remotely as new as a '90). But, since it happened soon after a drive, perhaps your throwout bearing is seized up. If there is much play in the linkages, you may be able to push the clutch pedal down anyway, but the forks are not moving the bearing which, in turn, is not disengaging the transmission. If that is the problem, it will require the transmission be dropped to access and replace the clutch, etc. I would get more input on this one before proceeding with that, though. As for the no-start, check your battery cables, solenoid, and cable to the starter to make sure none are corroded or have slightly loose connections. This can easily result in a periodic and "random" no start. Replies to this message: blissful (Aug 22, 2007 2:50 pm) xwesx (Aug 22, 2007 4:39 pm) blissful (Aug 22, 2007 10:18 pm)
#413 of 449 Re: '90 Chev 3/4T clutch failure [xwesx] by blissful Aug 22, 2007 (2:50 pm)
Replying to: xwesx (Aug 22, 2007 11:26 am) Thank you for both of those helpful recommendations! I really appreciate your quick response! Hmmm- What causes throw out bearings to seize? Inadequate lubrication? age? heat? I have to say there wasn't a lot of shifting going on during the drive- mostly freeway/highway, although that may be neither here nor there. The truck does have about 270K miles on it, and while the engine has been rebuilt, I do not know about the tranny in its former life. Clutch has always felt solid, though- no hint of problem. Your assessment may be right on- the clutch feels as if there is a little less resistance than formerly, but nothing like blocked hydraulics, which would feel hard. I guess I'm pretty much trying to decide whether to have it towed somewhere to get fixed, or if there is anything else I can do to deduce the true nature of the problem. I like to be pretty sure of the issue before presenting to the mechanic- forewarned is forearmed, as they say! Is it possible that whacking on the tranny case with a hammer might release the throwout bearing, now that it has cooled down? that would be by way of diagnosis, of course, not the permanent solution! Cheers! J Replies to this message: xwesx (Aug 22, 2007 4:39 pm) blissful (Aug 22, 2007 10:18 pm)
#414 of 449 Re: '90 Chev 3/4T clutch failure [blissful] by xwesx Aug 22, 2007 (4:39 pm)
Replying to: blissful (Aug 22, 2007 2:50 pm) Normally there is an access cover on the bottom of the transmission's bell housing. You might be able to shine a light in there and see the components to note if anything is obviously wrong. If the bearing is seized, you should definitely see it. Heat would cause the seizure, and the excess heat likely due to some sort of failure in the bearing such as wear. It would normally "warn" you first though. So, if there was no whining noises, rattly sounds, etc., coming from the vehicle that disappeared with a press of the clutch, it may not be the bearing. It could also be a bent shift fork or some other problem, though. The only time I had experience with this is when I helped a friend install a Chevy 305 in a '55 Willy's wagon. The truck still had the original transmission, and we used an adapter to mate the tranny to the engine. The company that machined the adapter was off just a tiny bit on the specs. As a result, the alignment was a bit off on the transmission shaft, even though it was close enough for government work. Well, just like gov't work, the bearing took extra heat due to the misalignment and eventually the aluminum bearing transferred material to the tranny shaft and froze up. Not good for his truck. It was not a happy evening when we tore it apart again and then put it together a second time. Happily, the adapter manufacturer provided the replacement part free of charge. They did not pay for our wasted hours, though, or for my ears after listening to my friend vent his frustration every 5-10 minutes. As for taking it to a mechanic, if you have a place close by, you should be able to get the truck started in 1st gear (I know my '69 Chevy will start in 1st or 2nd, no clutch needed!). You can lurch it out of the driveway in reverse just by using the starter, then limp your way to the shop. I suppose AAA would come in handy as well. Hopefully someone else will chime in with a suggestion as to the nature of your problem. Folks do respond here, but it tends to be sporadic as this particular topic is only sparsely visited. You can try other topics within the Chevy Pickups forum, though. Oddly, this is the only topic I frequent as almost none of the topics come close to my antique truck. Replies to this message: blissful (Aug 22, 2007 10:18 pm)