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449 messages, Last post on Apr 14, 2008 at 11:01 AM
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Replying to: heath012 (Jan 08, 2005 9:42 pm) |
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| 1990 GMC K-2500, 350ci, Manual Trans, with about 170K miles. Electronic spark control (ESC) appears not to be working. After tune up, disconnected ESC per manual in order to adjust timing. It lots of movement of distributor to get to spec of TDC. Ran fine, but when re-connecting ESC and then trying to re-start, it backfires and won't run. I've replaced ESC, Knock Sensor, MAP sensor and all new tune up parts. Distributor seems intact. It'll idle fine when bypassing ESC. Also, if starting with bypassed, then connecting ESC while still running, it'll keep running, but timing will not advance. Anyone with any ideas? | |
My truck will not start after a rain or during high humidity...it cranks and turns over but will not start.. I've changed the distributor/rotar (looked fine) after checking it for cracks..none found...any suggestions?
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Replying to: mworkman (Jun 03, 2007 3:58 pm)
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Replying to: quadsteer (Mar 29, 2005 7:43 pm) |
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Replying to: tburr (Mar 21, 2005 11:41 am) |
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I have installed a K&N cold air intake to my chevy about a week ago, everything was fine, then I installed a throttle body spacer a couple of days ago, now when i put it in park and it is idleing it runs rough almost missing, what can I do? would it help to adjust the throttle cable?? it is a little loose where as before the spacer it was tight. the engine size is a 6.0,
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Replying to: brownbm (Aug 14, 2007 5:07 am) What could possibly possess you to put a spacer in? What did you think it was gonna gain you? Today's vehicles get really irritated when you go mucking around with them. So much that the computer starts to have fits. The throttle cable has nothing to do with the idle. That is controlled by the computer. You have messed with the air intake and changed what the computer is reading. |
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Have a high mileage '90 LB PU that is used lightly now. Just back from camping trip at Mt. Hood this last weekend. Parked in drive, then went to move it again within 30 minutes and could not get clutch to engage. Clutch pedal does go to floor, but if I try to move the shifter, it just grinds, no matter what gear. If I stop the engine, put the shifter in gear, then start it up, it lurches forward, even though clutch is depressed. There is a clutch cyl, and I cannot determine exactly what kind of linkage goes from pedal to clutch cyl. Can this be adjusted? There is still proper amt of fluid in reservoir. Previously, and intermittently, there has been a failure to start which MAY have been related (i.e. the engine won't turn over if the clutch is not fully depressed; sometimes, even if the clutch IS fully depressed, it won't start, but the "fix" seems to be to open the hood and slam it shut again, suggesting that SOMETHING, SOMEWHERE is loose, or just on the verge of not being quite right.) Suggestions as to cause of problem? Is this something I can repair myself, or does it require special tools, lots of strength, or lots of time? Thanks!
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