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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair - READ ONLY

449 messages,  Last post on Apr 14, 2008 at 11:01 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet R/V 2500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 10 Series, Chevrolet R/V 3500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 20 Series, Chevrolet C/K 30 Series, Chevrolet C/K 2500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 1500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 3500 Series, Truck


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#115 of 449
Re: 1990 Chevy van ignition switch? [nsinogui] by kcram HOST
May 27, 2005 (3:31 pm)

Replying to: nsinogui (May 25, 2005 5:44 pm)

Since this is the discussion for C/K pickups, you'll probably get faster answers over at the Maintenance and Repair Board.
 
kcram - Pickups Host
#116 of 449
Passing emission (jet adjustment) by pnaking
May 28, 2005 (9:55 pm)
I recently purchase a 1980 C20 for a buddy. Runs great, need a little body work. Anyway, I failed idle part of the Utah state emissions test. I was idleing at 960 and read a 2.98, I need to be at 2.00 or lower. The mechanic told me that if I adjusted the jet all the way in until it started missing and let them out 3/4 turn or so it should take can of it. First, will this, or anything else accually help, and second....where the heck are the jet adjustments screw located. It is a stock 350 with what should be the stock 2-barrel carb. I have found the idle and fast idle adjustments, on the left and right side of the card respectfully, but thats it. Any help would be great!!
 
Thx
#117 of 449
Re: cold starting problems [kingbuck] by xwesx
May 31, 2005 (1:35 pm)

Replying to: kingbuck (May 24, 2005 6:40 am)

This is just a shot in the dark here, but is it possible that you have a fuel pressure problem? Perhaps a backflow valve or something is bad that is allowing the fuel lines to depressurize when the vehicle is turned off, and it is not allowing the rig to start due to lack of pressure. Most electric fuel pumps activate when the key is in the "ON" position, so maybe if you turn the truck to "ON" and wait for 10 seconds before attempting to start, it will help. If it doesn't, then probably not the fuel pressure. Again, just a thought.
 
Another possibility might be an airflow sensor, but if the vehicle is not recording any codes, that one might be tougher to ferret out!
 
Good luck.
 
-Wes-
#118 of 449
Re: Passing emission (jet adjustment) [pnaking] by xwesx
May 31, 2005 (1:45 pm)

Replying to: pnaking (May 28, 2005 9:55 pm)

This is coming from a '69 owner, but the jets on the 2 bbl are on the VERY bottom of the front of the carbeurator - and they are not very big! Turn both completely to the left to shut off, then 1/2 turn to the right as a starting point. If you start the engine and use the throttle linkage on the carb to keep the motor running while you tinker, you should be able to adjust the screws 1/4 turn (to the right) at a time until you just get a smooth idle. Then adjust the low idle speed down to around 600 rpm. I always do this when the engine is warm, but not sure if that is the "proper" way.
 
-Wes-
#119 of 449
Re: Passing emission (jet adjustment) [pnaking] by 85chevysb
Jun 06, 2005 (9:43 pm)

Replying to: pnaking (May 28, 2005 9:55 pm)

hey bud, with the older chev rochestor carbs, the jet screws were covered over in aluminum and you will need to drill the plug out before you will be able to adjust them. i can't tell you off hand where abouts they would be on your carb but went through the same with an old pick up i had, and a buddy of mine just had the same thing happen to him. any good machanic should be able to tell you where you can locate the plugs to drill out to locate your jet screws.
 
good luck!
#120 of 449
1993 Chevy 4x4 - Engine Flooding by gordo45
Jun 12, 2005 (5:35 pm)
Changed from a 350 to a 305 - installed a prom for a 305 -new injectors, plugs , caps, wires, etc Engine service light is on and the engine floods....help?
#121 of 449
Bleeding Brakes by khtheripper
Jun 13, 2005 (7:50 pm)
I own a 1984 Chevy Scottsdale. 305,6'' suspension lift,35 x 12.5 super swampers, heddman headers, flowmaster super 40's. (turn downs).
I seem to have a bit of a problem with my brakes. I noticed it about 3 days ago, I have to give the brakes hell to slow it down. I hear the sound of compressed air or something, so I figured it's probably just my brakes needing to be bled. The only thing is, I have a bleeding screw, I know its a 2 person job, and I know 1 person has to be inside stepping and holding down the break but I don't know what the other person is supposed to be doing. I don't even know where the bleeding screw goes?! Please someone help me.
#122 of 449
Re: Bleeding Brakes [khtheripper] by xwesx
Jun 16, 2005 (11:35 am)

Replying to: khtheripper (Jun 13, 2005 7:50 pm)

Yes, 2-person job. You probably do not have to worry about raising this truck up any in order to get under it comfortably so crawl under there and take a look at the back side of the brake assemblies. Aw, crap. Here comes my outdated knowledge again.... I imagine that an '84 Scottsdale would have disc brakes on the front? That's going to alter the placement a bit, but the procedure should be the same. Look for where the brake line accesses the caliper assembly / wheel cylinder (on drum brakes). Relatively near this location, there should be what looks like a small bolt with a something vaguely resembling a grease fitting but with a large opening on the end. This is the bleeder valve, and each wheel has one. Get yourself a small jar and place a little (maybe 3/4" deep) brake fluid in it. Get a 3/8" hose, maybe 18" long, and attach it to the end of the "grease valve" apparatus. Place the other end in the brake fluid in the jar.
 
Open your master cylinder (in the engine compartment) and make sure both reservoirs are filled with fluid. Close it. Now you are ready to begin. With the person in the cab applying pressure to the brake pedal, open the bleeder valve with the appropriately sized wrench - it has standard threads. as soon as it is loosened slightly, you should start seeing bubbles from the hose in the jar and the brake pedal will depress for your helper. When the pedal reaches full compression, the person in the cab should hold it, tell you it is down, and then you close the valve. You tell the other person it is closed, that person releases the pedal, applies pressure, and you repeat 3-4 times until no bubbles form and only fluid enters the jar (you'll see the fluid level rising!).
 
Repeat this procedure for all 4 brakes and, if you have significant amounts of air or are transferring quite a bit of fluid to the jar, be sure to check the reservoir level and again at the end of the procedure.
 
It is quite simple and should not require more than 10 minutes to perform. You should not need to remove any wheels to do it. Do not reuse the fluid that is expelled into the jar, as it may contain impurities that could (conceivably) clog your brake lines. It is not absolutely necessary to use the hose and jar - you could just open the valves without them - but this makes it much less messy and the air in the line becomes quite obvious. I highly recommend using the hose and jar!
 
Good luck!
 
-Wes-
#123 of 449
EFI to carb conversion by mrl390
Jun 16, 2005 (5:00 pm)
Does anyone know if you can put a carburetor on a small block chevy 305 that came from the factory with Electronic Fuel injection and if yes, HOW?!?!
#124 of 449
Re: cold starting problems [xwesx] by baxla
Jun 16, 2005 (7:40 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (May 31, 2005 1:35 pm)

it could be taking a while for it to build enough oil pressure for the ecm to alow it to fire.
 
i would suggest looking down the throttle body, and see if it is injecting while cranking. if it is, then check for spark while cranking.
 
that will narrow down what the problem is.

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