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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair ![]()

449 messages, Last post on Apr 14, 2008 at 11:01 AM
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Replying to: nsinogui (May 25, 2005 5:44 pm) kcram - Pickups Host |
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I recently purchase a 1980 C20 for a buddy. Runs great, need a little body work. Anyway, I failed idle part of the Utah state emissions test. I was idleing at 960 and read a 2.98, I need to be at 2.00 or lower. The mechanic told me that if I adjusted the jet all the way in until it started missing and let them out 3/4 turn or so it should take can of it. First, will this, or anything else accually help, and second....where the heck are the jet adjustments screw located. It is a stock 350 with what should be the stock 2-barrel carb. I have found the idle and fast idle adjustments, on the left and right side of the card respectfully, but thats it. Any help would be great!! Thx
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Replying to: kingbuck (May 24, 2005 6:40 am) Another possibility might be an airflow sensor, but if the vehicle is not recording any codes, that one might be tougher to ferret out! Good luck. -Wes-
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Replying to: pnaking (May 28, 2005 9:55 pm) -Wes- |
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Replying to: pnaking (May 28, 2005 9:55 pm) good luck! |
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Changed from a 350 to a 305 - installed a prom for a 305 -new injectors, plugs , caps, wires, etc Engine service light is on and the engine floods....help?
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I own a 1984 Chevy Scottsdale. 305,6'' suspension lift,35 x 12.5 super swampers, heddman headers, flowmaster super 40's. (turn downs). I seem to have a bit of a problem with my brakes. I noticed it about 3 days ago, I have to give the brakes hell to slow it down. I hear the sound of compressed air or something, so I figured it's probably just my brakes needing to be bled. The only thing is, I have a bleeding screw, I know its a 2 person job, and I know 1 person has to be inside stepping and holding down the break but I don't know what the other person is supposed to be doing. I don't even know where the bleeding screw goes?! Please someone help me.
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Replying to: khtheripper (Jun 13, 2005 7:50 pm) Open your master cylinder (in the engine compartment) and make sure both reservoirs are filled with fluid. Close it. Now you are ready to begin. With the person in the cab applying pressure to the brake pedal, open the bleeder valve with the appropriately sized wrench - it has standard threads. as soon as it is loosened slightly, you should start seeing bubbles from the hose in the jar and the brake pedal will depress for your helper. When the pedal reaches full compression, the person in the cab should hold it, tell you it is down, and then you close the valve. You tell the other person it is closed, that person releases the pedal, applies pressure, and you repeat 3-4 times until no bubbles form and only fluid enters the jar (you'll see the fluid level rising!). Repeat this procedure for all 4 brakes and, if you have significant amounts of air or are transferring quite a bit of fluid to the jar, be sure to check the reservoir level and again at the end of the procedure. It is quite simple and should not require more than 10 minutes to perform. You should not need to remove any wheels to do it. Do not reuse the fluid that is expelled into the jar, as it may contain impurities that could (conceivably) clog your brake lines. It is not absolutely necessary to use the hose and jar - you could just open the valves without them - but this makes it much less messy and the air in the line becomes quite obvious. I highly recommend using the hose and jar! Good luck! -Wes- |
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| Does anyone know if you can put a carburetor on a small block chevy 305 that came from the factory with Electronic Fuel injection and if yes, HOW?!?! | |
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Replying to: xwesx (May 31, 2005 1:35 pm) i would suggest looking down the throttle body, and see if it is injecting while cranking. if it is, then check for spark while cranking. that will narrow down what the problem is. |
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