Last post on Jun 17, 2010 at 12:28 PM
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Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust, Fuel System, Steering, Suspension, Transmission, Car Warranties, Coupe, Convertible, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV, Van
Jun 07, 2004 (1:19 pm)
On the early Olds 350 engine, circa '68, a sharp elbow hose went from the thermostat housing to the water pump. Around 30K miles, you could almost bet the hose was going to blow. When it did, the shop always recommended the retro kit (thermo housing with steel elbow and straight hose) and a water pump. The sudden pressure loss from the elbow hose blowing would take the seal out on the pump, causing a leak to start within a couple of hundred miles. Most times folks would take the "You're trying to rip me off" attitude. Then, when the pump would let go within the month, "What did you do to my car, it didn't leak til you worked on it, etc. At which time, once again, we would show them the service bulletin that stated the waterpump should be replaced along with a new thermo housing kit installed.
But of course, we were just a bunch of crooks.
#45 of 93 ah, a confession !! ;)
Jun 07, 2004 (8:49 pm)
there are all kinds of little interrelationships that allow one part failing to take another out.
my brake deal turned out to include a seized e-brake cable, which let a rear caliper drag, which led to the early disintegration of one brake pad and loss of a rotor. both of the front brake hoses, by the way, were bad... one bulged and one blew... so had them both replaced today to prevent another little interrelationship like a seriously twisted frame in a ditch, which would cause all brakes to fail to track with each other correctly, among other things
the dealer's guys left $360 on the table when they missed these items. the e-brake would have been spotted by an 8-year-old if the kid followed the service steps all the way through. but for God, could have put my fiancee and I on a table as well.
so I would have been receptive to a second call from the service writer saying uh, we found something else, we really think you should have these fixed right away as well, and yeah, it adds to the estimate we already gave you.
I can think of a few folks who would have set off NORAD's emergency channels if they heard it. but I read my manuals, and I used to take news pictures of accidents and the like, and being a cranky old tech type, I'd rather get the information and act than be shielded and be blindsided.
have not been back to the dealer with the additional work I needed, but when I drift by, it will be on the order of, "say, guy, here's what happened last weekend. and you know, you should have caught at least the e-brake. you left $360 on the table, and left God to watch my back, and I want you to take that into the weekly service meeting. if there are eleven bullets on the service procedure, do all eleven. that's all, really."
#46 of 93 A proper brake inspection is
Jun 08, 2004 (5:14 am)
a proper brake inspection, period - all four wheels come off, everything is checked, including the cables, the e-brake shoes (where applicable), and all the hard and soft lines.
Brakes are an area where, as a service manager, I'd fire a tech for doing shoddy work. ONE incident could easily put the dealership out of business and me out of a job, so I take it personally...
#47 of 93 I tend to be real paranoid about brakes, too
Jun 08, 2004 (8:28 pm)
so now I'm not going to use them any more, so they never wear, LOL
seriously, folks, I'm just not going to slow down for pedestrians
// slap, slap, slap \\ ouch, OK. whenever I get around to it, I'm going to call my service writer and get it done. had to take the cat to the vet today, which among some ancillary things to do around the place ate the whole day off in big bites.
Aug 20, 2004 (2:47 pm)
You do not have to have the work done. Son needed a belt htat was fraying, dealer rep came in said they wanted to repalce all three belts. I said I wanted to speak with the tech. I said that I inspected the other two belts and they looked fine, he said yes they do. then why replace them. He said, they are not OEM belts they are aftermarket and I don't like aftermarket belts. He said hey, I don't care I don't make any more moeny whether you replace them or not. Yea right, the dealer does though!
Aug 20, 2004 (9:41 pm)
But what would you do if he had to remove the two good/used aftermarket belts to replace the one bad frayed one?
Aug 21, 2004 (6:12 am)
Whoever replaced the other two belts should have replaced the one that's bad now!
Makes no sense.
Aug 21, 2004 (10:44 am)
Sorry, but I am with the tech on this one.
The belts should be replaced all together.
In most cases, the labor difference between one belt and all of them is rarely above .5 hour.
It's kind of like replacing one radiator hose and not the other.
Just my opinion.
#52 of 93 if they are pulling parallel, by all means replace 'em all
Aug 21, 2004 (9:26 pm)
used to be in the nasty old days, you would have two or maybe three V-belts that drove most all the accessories... mostly because if you used only one belt with the air conditioning compressor in there, it would have a lousy life span. under those conditions, if multiple belts are needed to transfer power to one set of loads, you absolutely need to replace 'em all at the same time. otherwise, the new one will take all the load, being unstretched, and will break. that flips a wild belt under the other drive belt on that load, and fling it off as well.
this happens late at night, or sunday suppertime, with the tow on, 30 miles from nowhere, on the second-hottest day of the year, in my experience. you don't want to be there.
belts are not expensive. I'm with 0patience on this one, I've been there.
Aug 22, 2004 (9:03 am)
"the longest journey begins with a single broken drive belt".
Old Chinese proverb